Another Fummins Build Thread

artieb said:
I got all the kinks out of my conversion, except grid heaters, AC and reworking my innercooler to get the hotpipe on the frame rail, instead of in the air from the turbo then down to the IC. I'm hoping that everyone who turned the Dodge starter up-side-down sealed and reclocked the water drains. I had to fab a 3"-4" downpipe from scratch and works well. Thanks to Meyers farms and everyone. What did you use for a tach signal? I used a CPS from an 01 gas for 16.99 and works well! I used a oil pressure sending unit to operate my SES light. Any AC advice? Thanks, Artie
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I have a tach adapter from Fordcummins but do not have it hooked up correctly. I am interested in more information about how you hooked up your tach. Did you just hook up the CPS to the stock CPS wires? If so, which ones of the three? or all of them? I would definitely like to get my tach working. No AC advice at this time either, these are the two things I need to finish up to complete my swap. Feel free to pm me any info or post it on here about the tach. Also any information on the oil pressure sending unit is appreciated, I'd love to get mine to go out. Thanks!!

dieseldave01 said:
When you gonna pull this sum b****!!!!!
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As soon as you pull that great white of yours!

331stroker said:
How much do you have invested so far? If you don't mind sharing, that is.
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Not sure on my total because I have sold lots of extra parts from the two trucks but I'd say atleast $4500. This is including selling my 1997 12V to buy the Ford.

cwweedo said:
looks good man cant wait to get my 12 valve swap rolling
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Thanks, you will love it when you get it running!
 
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I don't have any idea why "they" want to use the old cps green wire? On the connector from the PCM will be a White / pink wire, on pin 19, cut him close to the connector, then a little RTV on the connector side of the wire end to keep out moisture to the PCM's connector. The other end of the wire you cut goes out a little, then circles right back in one of the 3 square connectors, that goes directly to your tach. Splice him and run it to what you're using for the tach sensor, ground the other one, set the gap .020 or so You'll be feeding the signal to the tach. All three of the old CPS wires are not needed. What are you using for the pick-up? What are you using for the "tone ring" The tach in our trucks need 4 bumps per revolution. Make sure you are not using the 12 tooth ring, or you'll be idling at 3200 RPM or so. I have 2 additional notches in my balancer with a total of 4. I used a Duralast SU226 CPS from autozone at 16.99 . I'll PM you my # and email. Once you get through it, it makes sense. Artie
 
artieb said:
I don't have any idea why "they" want to use the old cps green wire? On the connector from the PCM will be a White / pink wire, on pin 19, cut him close to the connector, then a little RTV on the connector side of the wire end to keep out moisture to the PCM's connector. The other end of the wire you cut goes out a little, then circles right back in one of the 3 square connectors, that goes directly to your tach. Splice him and run it to what you're using for the tach sensor, ground the other one, set the gap .020 or so You'll be feeding the signal to the tach. All three of the old CPS wires are not needed. What are you using for the pick-up? What are you using for the "tone ring" The tach in our trucks need 4 bumps per revolution. Make sure you are not using the 12 tooth ring, or you'll be idling at 3200 RPM or so. I have 2 additional notches in my balancer with a total of 4. I used a Duralast SU226 CPS from autozone at 16.99 . I'll PM you my # and email. Once you get through it, it makes sense. Artie
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I am using the tach adapter from FordCummins. I have a signal but it is not correct (I used the old CPS wires). I already added two additional notches in my balancer so I'm good to go there. Sounds like I just need to switch some wiring around.

Thank you for the info.:bow: Hopefully this weekend I can work on this and make some progress. I'd love to be able to see what rpm I'm turning! If not this weekend next week for sure. Thanks again!
 
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I had a local company that builds performance exhaust build this down pipe for me to accept the dodge flange and the industrial manifold and bought a 4" kit for a super duty.
 

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Joshcriimns, are you using an industrial or 3rd gen manifold? Or what are you using for the exhaust manifold?
 
Using the industrial cummins manifold from a bus or truck application. Bought it from destroked but it came in a Cummins box.
 
running a hx35 w turbo? Does the DP come close to the bell housing? Thanks, Artie
 
ChrisNickerson said:
This truck came out awesome, good job on the sawp. Enjoy driving it!

Chris
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Thanks a lot! I am loving it for sure. I've been doing some light towing with lately, 8-9000 lbs and it is pulling great. Still have some fine tuning to do (little less fuel in lower end).

Definitely happy with it so far!
 
artieb said:
running a hx35 w turbo? Does the DP come close to the bell housing? Thanks, Artie
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I'd say it's an inch or two away been a little while since I've had it on there for a mach up. I'm using the factory 95 dodge turbo and the cast tapered flange. But I know they could put about any flange on it.
 
Now that my Fummins is almost totally finished, it's time for another project. Put the Fummins to work picking her up too. 1960 JD 4010 Diesel

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I love those old Deeres. We have a '67 4020 that until last month was our feed grinding tractor.

Also I've been watching the build of your truck and like it a lot. I hope to build my own next year.
 
4wydnr said:
I love those old Deeres. We have a '67 4020 that until last month was our feed grinding tractor.

Also I've been watching the build of your truck and like it a lot. I hope to build my own next year.
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Thanks and goodluck with your build.
 
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DSC03558.jpg Here's what I did for the hot side of my innercooler. Very tight, but works, Artie
 
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