Anybody else make an intake runner plate?

So using generic numbers, your saying, if the slot(between cone and main plenum) flows 100, then the plenum must flow max of 50? But how do you come up with those calculations on a head?

separate from the head, I'm talking purely in a comparison of velocities to obtain equal distribution in a plenum. Now, this may all be out the window when compared to the resonance experienced with the intake valves opening/closing.
 
4" to 2" cone, 20" long.

20" x 3" intake plate; which is roughly the size of the stock plate.

1/2" ID slot, 20" long which is roughly the same area as a 3.5" diameter pipe.

Pretty close to scale

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418317131.324492.jpg

Would just need to find injection lines to bend and take more measurements to make sure it would clear the valve covers and pump etc.


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Sorry if I hi-jacked you post OP, hope you don't mind.

I've got one quote for a blank intake plate to fit oem shelf with bolt holes, 1/2" stainless for $159. Seems a little steep maybe. Anyone know anyone that makes these?
 
How do you size the cone though and the slot?

If I remember correctly a 7 degree cone to a max of 12* maybe?

Any steeper and it will cause more air flow at the narrow end. Your original design minus the runners bolted to the head would give more plenum volume, you could also have the plenum rise up and have the cone on the side, might allow more bonnet clearance. The engineer in that thread mentioned that it maybe possible to "tune" the air flow by tapering the slot or by the addition of diffuser vanes internally to the slot. A lot of experimentation on the bench with a leaf blower :nail:

On the diffuser idea, could you make a diffuser that attached to the bottom of the mount plate/ plenum that inserred into the head intake to create a pseudo runner into each port?
 
Do we have any closer pictures of this?

probably didn't get closer pics in fear for the welds might scare you away.
inside joke.........
(I waited 7months for my RR's and when they finally arrived, needless to say I was quite disappointed in the welds on my cover, other ones look good but mine looked like a spool gun did them. plus it was dented.) but hey No Limit manufacturing released their design with a machined one piece cover and a few other nice features that mine lack...... 100$ cheaper to. although that intake seems like a solid idea and design. when I saw it I didn't pay to close of attention just remembered seeing it and the descriptions some ppl gave seemed this design fit
 
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4" to 2" cone, 20" long.

20" x 3" intake plate; which is roughly the size of the stock plate.

1/2" ID slot, 20" long which is roughly the same area as a 3.5" diameter pipe.

Pretty close to scale

View attachment 54681

Would just need to find injection lines to bend and take more measurements to make sure it would clear the valve covers and pump etc.


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I like it! You could use aftercooled P pump bus lines like I mentioned earlier. Would fit around it nicely...

Charlie
 
Keating makes a sweet intake runner plate that bolts to the head and adapts a D shaped port to 2" round. They only make it in steel and aluminum. I would like to build one out of stainless so I called them and they said they are too busy to make one for me. Suggestions?

I'm just learning how to tig weld and I started messing around with stainless the other day and this is how it turned out... Need more practice but getting there...

44A6E165-0638-4D62-927C-2C413270146E_zps6dfgefbe.jpg


6EF80C1E-E48C-48E2-A884-2CC9E8B82462_zpsvgewxunq.jpg


68F8B291-E3AF-4089-AA93-25F0E6450FA8_zpstn0fdfpy.jpg


Thanks

Charlie

Your welding skillz look damn good to me

I've seen "professional" welders' work that did not look as good as that. I'd say buy the parts and go for it!!!
 
I like it! You could use aftercooled P pump bus lines like I mentioned earlier. Would fit around it nicely...

Charlie

Jeff is still looking, but alot of those engines didn't use bosch p7100, they used nippin-denso pumps so the line fittings are different.
 
Well no luck so far for lines, and I'm not really sure I want 0.093 lines. :/
 
Just out of curiosity, would there be any benefit in building an intercooler with a Lehmann style tank on the turbo side?
 
That is a good idea to help distribute air across all of the tubes but I think a few directional fins inside the tank would be just about as effective...

How does one convince Keating to make something in stainless instead of mild steel? LOL they already make them in mild steel and aluminum so it would only be a little time sourcing material and recalculating the feed rate so the milling bit doesn't run too fast across the harder surface.

Charlie
 
As far as intercooler where the inlet is on the end tank can really affect the air distribution. A back door style end tank what is commonly on most factory a2a intercoolers does and extremely good job. Next best would be the style on say a pt2000 style a2w. On this style with the inlet/outlet both on the same side distributes air alittle better the say one with inlet/outlet on opposite sides. Then the straight through style end tank being the worst.
 
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