best aftermarket valve springs

F1 Springs

What's the difference between Pro Sport Springs and Sportsman Springs? I never heard of the Pro Sport Springs until Don M's post a few posts back?

Tks.
 
So with the 110psi springs, are push rods really all that necessary?

If so, how makes a nice set for comparison?
 
pushrods

jason i got my pushrods from comp461 3/8 chromemoly billet ends.
 
Personally I am not a fan of heavy valve springs or stronger pushrods.... I have never had a pushrod bend that was installed correctly. Also I have seen where having the OEM rods in saved a lot more damage when a cam broke. With the rod able to bend when contact between valve and piston occured saved a lot costlier repairs.

Sometimes having the right parts is more important than having the biggest or strongest. People need to remember that what is good for racing and sledpulling on purely competitive trucks isn't always the best choice for everyday use vehicles.
 
I have and have been running Floor It Diesel springs with good results. Should have it back this coming week all tuned in.
 
I'm just curious if I were to bend a push-rod and it were to come lose from under the rocker arm, what other damage can happen? I'm assuming not to much, maybe need to replace a rocker arm or something.

I have a set of 110psi springs coming and things will be going to gether with in 2 weeks or so.

I was thinking on waiting on the push rods or not at all. I've never seen a good argument over the push rods yet :) hoping to start one and have some good info out right? :)
 
JasonCzerak said:
I'm just curious if I were to bend a push-rod and it were to come lose from under the rocker arm, what other damage can happen?
Click to expand...

I didn't do any damage but I knew when it happened. Maybe I got lucky, but all I had to replace was a push rod.
 
JasonCzerak said:
I'm just curious if I were to bend a push-rod and it were to come lose from under the rocker arm, what other damage can happen? I'm assuming not to much, maybe need to replace a rocker arm or something.
Click to expand...

In my 12 valve I broke the center section out of my cam gear and ended up putting the valves into the pistons. This bent all the stock push rods and they bent far enough to break out the tops of the tappets. The failure happened at or near idle in my driveway and the push rods stayed "in place". It bent them like pretzels.

Pics
 
All these aftermarket 24v valve springs like Hamiltons, and F1's seem VERY similar to PAC valve spring # 1214 & # 1214 but for a lot less money. Seat pressures and load pressures are verrrrrrry close, O.D & I.D are verrrrrry close.

http://www.pacracing.com/beehive.html

scot
 
oil-burner said:
All these aftermarket 24v valve springs like Hamiltons, and F1's seem VERY similar to PAC valve spring # 1214 & # 1214 but for a lot less money. Seat pressures and load pressures are verrrrrrry close, O.D & I.D are verrrrrry close.

http://www.pacracing.com/beehive.html

scot
Click to expand...

The way I read the chart, with an installed height of 1.380 you would have 180lbs. of seat pressure and almost coil bind at full lift on a stock cam.
 
Thats how the math stacked up when I looked at the numbers unless I was missing something Scot. You also pointed out #1214 twice, did you intend to point out a second spring on that chart?
 
John carrys Don's springs and some of his own now.
 
So.... Can any of those Pac springs be used in a 24 valve application? What if you only want to rev to 3800 max and about 3600 max with any sort of a load.
 
The springs that I provide are 110 lbs @1.400 and coil bind @ .780 this allows you the ability to run the spring at 1.400. on street aplacations

Or set them up to 1.350 and have 140 on the seat and still run a gross lift of .500 and have over 250 on the nose. This is the primary reason I chose the dual spring I did ,is mainly the ability to have the have a short coil bind figure, and also have enough on the nose to control valvetrain motion. The dual spring requires a custom retainer to keep the inner spring off the retainer.

I selected to use Titanium because the cost was just a little more than Chromemolly . Titanium is stronger, and more durable in any application then CM and anyone that espouses anything different, is doing so because they market something else. I have been involved in cam and valve train development for a long time , and have bitten my tongue , and not responded to the ludicrous soliloquies on here from people that know words and phrases , but haven’t a clue how the concepts cohabitate . I try to help those that ask, and freely offer advise. if anyone doesn’t want it , oh well

I sell my spring kit for retail of $ 550 with ti retainers
 
COMP461 said:
The springs that I provide are 110 lbs @1.400 and coil bind @ .780 this allows you the ability to run the spring at 1.400. on street aplacations

Or set them up to 1.350 and have 140 on the seat and still run a gross lift of .500 and have over 250 on the nose. This is the primary reason I chose the dual spring I did ,is mainly the ability to have the have a short coil bind figure, and also have enough on the nose to control valvetrain motion. The dual spring requires a custom retainer to keep the inner spring off the retainer.

I selected to use Titanium because the cost was just a little more than Chromemolly . Titanium is stronger, and more durable in any application then CM and anyone that espouses anything different, is doing so because they market something else. I have been involved in cam and valve train development for a long time , and have bitten my tongue , and not responded to the ludicrous soliloquies on here from people that know words and phrases , but haven’t a clue how the concepts cohabitate . I try to help those that ask, and freely offer advise. if anyone doesn’t want it , oh well

I sell my spring kit for retail of $ 550 with ti retainers
Click to expand...

the set I got was really nice and seem well made and cant wait until I get everything back together to hear it run.:evil gonna be SICK
 
Yeah, there's nothing quite like smokin' a ricer with their OWN parts. Must be a new hybrid VTEC Cummins.

Those spring specs are very HONDA'ish....could it be?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top