Blown Head Gasket for the 2nd time... need some good sound advise this time.

they spool VERY fast with a boost elbow on the he351.
With the new HG im gonna go back to the factory wastegate setting on the 351 which gates that turbo down to like 27psi rather than 40-42psi.
and in turn gets my over-all down to the 55-60psi range
is spools less violently like that but in turn, cuts down on some power and the fun driving torque in the seat of the pants

Same exact twin setup im putting together rite now.... Cant wait to get them goin. Im so tired of the slower spool up that i have with my super b special.

So, you would suggest keeping the w/g set lower on the 351? Im also try to keep boost down to 55-60psi when i install them, do to only havin studs.
 
I use this: MT257B

Plus This: EETL500 OR this: EETL5568

And a TDC reference mark on the crank pulley to find actual timing @ the injector. It's usually not off by more than a degree when compared to plunger lift.
 
Same exact twin setup im putting together rite now.... Cant wait to get them goin. Im so tired of the slower spool up that i have with my super b special.

So, you would suggest keeping the w/g set lower on the 351? Im also try to keep boost down to 55-60psi when i install them, do to only havin studs.

Well in my application the gta4294 i have has a gated t6 exhaust housing with like a 1.22ar or 1.28.. i dont remember. anyway i have my set-up crammed in really tight and there was no room for the wastegate actuator on the gt42 so i made a nice little plate to hold it shut. if yours has a gate and you can utilize it even better yet, or else you will probably have to keep the 351 turned down.

I also had a super b special before this and too got tired of it in short order.
 
Well in my application the gta4294 i have has a gated t6 exhaust housing with like a 1.22ar or 1.28.. i dont remember. anyway i have my set-up crammed in really tight and there was no room for the wastegate actuator on the gt42 so i made a nice little plate to hold it shut. if yours has a gate and you can utilize it even better yet, or else you will probably have to keep the 351 turned down.

I also had a super b special before this and too got tired of it in short order.


GTA4294, it's a 1.28 AR housing. It would light violently around 2400-2500 rpm when I was running it as a single on my Junker Drag Truck. :hehe:
 
Well in my application the gta4294 i have has a gated t6 exhaust housing with like a 1.22ar or 1.28.. i dont remember. anyway i have my set-up crammed in really tight and there was no room for the wastegate actuator on the gt42 so i made a nice little plate to hold it shut. if yours has a gate and you can utilize it even better yet, or else you will probably have to keep the 351 turned down.

I also had a super b special before this and too got tired of it in short order.

Is your truck an auto?? Mines a 5spd, so i dont have to deal with a heat exchanger. So im gonna try to keep the gt42 gated.

My GT also has the 1.28 housing, along with a billet comp wheel


-ViTO-
 
GTA4294, it's a 1.28 AR housing. It would light violently around 2400-2500 rpm when I was running it as a single on my Junker Drag Truck. :hehe:

I also thought off running it as a single, by putting a 1.0 t4 housing on it. But then realized after the cost of a different housing, i would be in it almost as much as a set off homebrew twins. So, it seemed more cost effective to run twins.... Plus ill prob enjoy my truck more with twins


-ViTO-
 
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OK so got the head back from the machine shop, got my new gasket, got everything back together and fired up. seems to be good. let it idle for a while and let the thermostat cycle a few times.

So now the question is...

What is the preferred re-torque procedure.

I have the standard ARP studs. i torqued them to 130 let it sit for an hour, then went over them again at 130ft. lbs. this was at the initaial set-up before the start-up.

so now what. dont wanna fudge it up this time:poke:
 
OK so got the head back from the machine shop, got my new gasket, got everything back together and fired up. seems to be good. let it idle for a while and let the thermostat cycle a few times.

So now the question is...

What is the preferred re-torque procedure.

I have the standard ARP studs. i torqued them to 130 let it sit for an hour, then went over them again at 130ft. lbs. this was at the initaial set-up before the start-up.

so now what. dont wanna fudge it up this time:poke:

You still running a .020 over gasket, or did you go STD?


-ViTO-
 
i went w/ another .020 over gasket.
cause like i said, before the hg gave out this truck has been running better than ever before.
i figured just try to keep things close to the same minus the coolant all over the ground.
 
Just don't do hot retorque

I did warm up then cool down to hand touch warm on the block re-torques for 10 years with zero failure's but it seems others are doing cold re-torques, might go that way too just because.

Jim
 
OK so got the head back from the machine shop, got my new gasket, got everything back together and fired up. seems to be good. let it idle for a while and let the thermostat cycle a few times.

So now the question is...

What is the preferred re-torque procedure.

I have the standard ARP studs. i torqued them to 130 let it sit for an hour, then went over them again at 130ft. lbs. this was at the initaial set-up before the start-up.

so now what. dont wanna fudge it up this time:poke:


NO O-rings??
 
closest person i could find was 2 states away and a couple weeks out.

didnt have the time to spare this time around.

local shop surfaced it while i waited. cummins cal pacific is 10 min away.
so i went the quick easy route, I'll turn the boost down and say a prayer for now.

The plan is, to look for a core head meanwhile, port it myself, have the valves and o-rings done etc.
 
I'm glad your truck is running good. I sure liked those injectors. Day after I sent them out my dad wanted them back for his engine LOL
 
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