Building a 24v p-pump motor without selling a kidney

getblown5.9 said:
looks like ill be able to save some money if i can re-use my pistons and just have them cut.

most of my money will be spent on the machine work on the pistons, to clean up the block, and having everything balanced.
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Advanced Engine in Mentor Oh cut my stock HO pistons and had them coated for around $500. With the injs im running I figure I could run 35* of timing if I wanted to. Ill let ya know how it works out. I should've taken pics of the pistons, They are NICE.
edit: AE also did everything else to my engine as well (head, block, rods, ect) good guy to deal with$.02
 
girdle

hummin cummins said:
I am waiting for someone to build a main girdle with main caps incorporated into it. I think that would be sweet.
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i'll have to dig up a picture of the saddle plate that the machine shop built for a guy in ohio. it was a awesome part to see. it started off as a 3-4 foot by 12 inch block of material then milled down with the main caps incorperated and the pan rail portion was about a half inch thick so it didn't cause a fitment issue with the pan to crossmember clearence. if i remember right it was 4140 steel.

they mocked it up by useing a couple stiffener plates and welding or bolting through tieing the stock main caps and then removed it to take and profile it for the cnc mill. thats some of what i remember of it. i wasn't there from start to finish i just dropped in to see how it was progressing.

naturally it had to be line bored to spec and the other machining for it to work but if i can find the pictures i'll post them up.
 
BenM said:
i'll have to dig up a picture of the saddle plate that the machine shop built for a guy in ohio. it was a awesome part to see. it started off as a 3-4 foot by 12 inch block of material then milled down with the main caps incorperated and the pan rail portion was about a half inch thick so it didn't cause a fitment issue with the pan to crossmember clearence. if i remember right it was 4140 steel.

they mocked it up by useing a couple stiffener plates and welding or bolting through tieing the stock main caps and then removed it to take and profile it for the cnc mill. thats some of what i remember of it. i wasn't there from start to finish i just dropped in to see how it was progressing.

naturally it had to be line bored to spec and the other machining for it to work but if i can find the pictures i'll post them up.
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That would be sweet, I would love to see them. I have been thinking about doing one for about a year, but I haven't had any problems yet with what I have.
 
While we are on this subject. Is there one piston that would be better than the other for this build up? I have heard the cr piston would be a good setup.
 
so since i like to work backwards i have a kennys girdle and 14mm studs on the way. next step is to find a decent 24v bottom end. then a machine shop to start doing the work.
 
yea thats what i think im gonna use, just gonna have them flycut, and open the bowl up, drop the compression just a hair
 
how much can you safely shave off a stock 24v piston? would 13:1 be ok? I'm going for about the same setup as getblown5.9 but I don't mind spraying a little. I would think 35* timing would still be to much cylinder pressure for 15:1 but thats justme.
 
getblown5.9 said:
so since i like to work backwards i have a kennys girdle and 14mm studs on the way. next step is to find a decent 24v bottom end. then a machine shop to start doing the work.
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What else do you need for a bottom end???? crank? rods?
 
BenM said:
i'll have to dig up a picture of the saddle plate that the machine shop built for a guy in ohio. it was a awesome part to see. it started off as a 3-4 foot by 12 inch block of material then milled down with the main caps incorperated and the pan rail portion was about a half inch thick so it didn't cause a fitment issue with the pan to crossmember clearence. if i remember right it was 4140 steel.

they mocked it up by useing a couple stiffener plates and welding or bolting through tieing the stock main caps and then removed it to take and profile it for the cnc mill. thats some of what i remember of it. i wasn't there from start to finish i just dropped in to see how it was progressing.

naturally it had to be line bored to spec and the other machining for it to work but if i can find the pictures i'll post them up.
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Did you ever find these pics?
 
getblown5.9 said:
then a machine shop to start doing the work.
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I have checked with a few shops here in PA, but they are unable to line bore or line hone the 5.9. I have been told of a few places that can do it, but I have to go "though" other guys (not directly deal with the shop). Not what I want to do, so I am still looking also.

:pop:
 
bubba1 said:
What else do you need for a bottom end???? crank? rods?
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Yea, im gonna try to find a 24v shortblock to have done then swap in, but if I dont find one for the right price I'll just pull mine and build it this winter. I already have the head, and everything else is gonna come off my current set-up.
 
Johnny Big Rig said:
how much can you safely shave off a stock 24v piston? would 13:1 be ok? I'm going for about the same setup as getblown5.9 but I don't mind spraying a little. I would think 35* timing would still be to much cylinder pressure for 15:1 but thats justme.
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The problem with shaving the top of the piston is it increases the distance between your spray pattern and the bowl decreasing the amount of timing you can run. I cut my own pistons on a bridgeport. My pistons allready had 50 thous. cut so all i had to do was take the deeper. We also opend the bowl up bout 3mm to help keep the pattern in the bowl plus drop the compression more. Schied said do not shave the top of the pistons. I am planning on running 38-42* timing with this new setup. I dont know about the spray.
 
I can recommend a machine to NOT get anything done at!!!
 
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