Bullet Proof Drive Line....

Fireman450

Fireman450

Daring to be diffrent!!
Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,606
Lets hear what yall are doing to keep the driveline together on your pullers.
What mods have yall done to insure that everything will hold? I am looking for ideas on how to beef up my drivetrain from my tranny back on my 2wd, but I also want this to be a good information thread for all pullers on how to keep everything to hold.
So what are the weakest links? What can be done to reinforce our rearends to prevent gear damage? So far I have gotten axels, ring and pinion, & U joints. Mind you all my parts have been stock except the gearset.
What are the best componets to go with? Lets start with the driveshafts and move backwards to the gears and axels and any reinforcements that can be done to insure the carrier dosnt flex.
Then What can be done to the front end? I have a buddy with a 04.5 dodge that has been going through a drivers side front axel joint every hook.
I always thought the passenger side was the weaker of the two?

Lets hear your driveline tips and upgrades.....

Thanks
Lynn
 
on my ext cab i went to a one piece 4" .120 wall driveshaft with 1480 yokes and joints.

still running stock gears (3.54) but put a haisley minispool and 37 spline axles in the rear. they were not cheap at all but at least i know they are strong.

my front end is all stock, open carrier, i dunno if its cuz we dont have too many hard biting clay tracks out here or what but i rarely see any front end carnage at our pulls. its usually u-joints, driveshafts, or pinions breaking.
 
Getblown summed up the rear pretty well. You could always drop a few hundred ponys, that will save some damage haha. I lost an axle at nadm event at numidia, didnt find out about it till last week. I think i finnaly got my truck up to full power now so well see what happens this weekend, all my pulls ive been hurting for power real bad with fuel troubles but its there now.
 
like mentioned above... 1480 joints, 4" shaft, I went with 0.095" wall, 271 transfer case, arb locker and stock shafts...

3.54 gears as well, been running 4th low (6 spd) w/ 35" tires, however just swapped to 33" STS's so I'm sure to find the weak link now (probably axles).

Dropping your gear ratio way down will save the driveshaft/trans case/ujoints alot of stress, however axle shafts will still need addressed...

EDIT: I guess the 271 transfer case won't do you much good :bang 2WD
 
case.
ring thrust bolt... you find these on some othe older 1 ton axles... keep the ring from flexing away from the pinion..

carrier cap thrust bolts..guirdle.. built into the dif cover.. supports the side bearings caps on the side of the carrier..

back lash? what are you guys setting it at? loose tight? how hott does the diff get after a solid pull? could allow you to run a muhc tighter back lash..thus allowing for more tooth contact patch.


smaller gears(taller) the rings are normally thicker then a shorter gear... mainly due to the pinion size for said gear set. ie 3.54 ring is thick then a 4.88 ring.
 
I think for the most part the stock u-joints and driveshafts are good. all I pull on is stiiicky clay tracks and all i break is ring and pinions and axle shafts I have never had a issue with anything else so I would say If the whole rear axle is beefed up thats all you need to worry about.
 
grncummins said:
I think for the most part the stock u-joints and driveshafts are good. all I pull on is stiiicky clay tracks and all i break is ring and pinions and axle shafts I have never had a issue with anything else so I would say If the whole rear axle is beefed up thats all you need to worry about.
Click to expand...

what year is your truck? 1st gen thru 3rd gen drivelines are not the same in stock configuration...
 
So far I plan on having a 1 pc driveshaft made W/1480 U- joints. Going with a full spool along with my 4.63 gears and a good set of axels. (Probablly Haisley) , Then a reinforced Diff cover to help keep everything in place.
I think I have a good list made up. Does anyone want to add?

I would love to be able to just shove a rockwell under mine and forget it, but there are not many classes around here that will allow that.... :bang

Lynn
 
Fireman450 said:
So far I plan on having a 1 pc driveshaft made W/1480 U- joints. Going with a full spool along with my 4.63 gears and a good set of axels. (Probablly Haisley) , Then a reinforced Diff cover to help keep everything in place.
I think I have a good list made up. Does anyone want to add?

I would love to be able to just shove a rockwell under mine and forget it, but there are not many classes around here that will allow that.... :bang

Lynn
Click to expand...

ur runing traction bars arent u? some ppl have said that after u keep the axle tubes from twisting it breaks the welds on the pumpkin to the axle tubes and twist the pumkin up:badidea:. i have been meaning to weld mine a good ways around the tubes to the pumpkin just in case.
 
jeffreystewart said:
ur runing traction bars arent u? some ppl have said that after u keep the axle tubes from twisting it breaks the welds on the pumpkin to the axle tubes and twist the pumkin up:badidea:. i have been meaning to weld mine a good ways around the tubes to the pumpkin just in case.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Ill have to take a look at that and make sure it hasnt cracked anywhere. Thanks

Lynn
 
malibu795 said:
case.
ring thrust bolt... you find these on some othe older 1 ton axles... keep the ring from flexing away from the pinion..

carrier cap thrust bolts..guirdle.. built into the dif cover.. supports the side bearings caps on the side of the carrier..

back lash? what are you guys setting it at? loose tight? how hott does the diff get after a solid pull? could allow you to run a muhc tighter back lash..thus allowing for more tooth contact patch.


smaller gears(taller) the rings are normally thicker then a shorter gear... mainly due to the pinion size for said gear set. ie 3.54 ring is thick then a 4.88 ring.
Click to expand...

Run the back lash tight, i think stock says .009 i set them at .000 no lash and hard to turn by hand on pullers. The first time you dump the clutch it will loosen slightly. Diff temp wont be a huge issue in 300' but if you drive it on the street dont set it tight set to OEM specs or it will tear up a set of gears. Also a girdle is a must and ring gear support is also a very good idea
 
DISTURBED said:
Run the back lash tight, i think stock says .009 i set them at .000 no lash and hard to turn by hand on pullers. The first time you dump the clutch it will loosen slightly. Diff temp wont be a huge issue in 300' but if you drive it on the street dont set it tight set to OEM specs or it will tear up a set of gears. Also a girdle is a must and ring gear support is also a very good idea
Click to expand...

Hmm makes since on the backlash. Can anyone post up some pics of a Girdle?
And would anyone care to elaborate on the ring gear support?

Lynn
 
similar to this
Moser Engineering 7110 - Moser Engineering Aluminum Differential Covers-Overview SummitRacing.com


msr-7110_w.jpg
 
Fireman450 said:
Hmm makes since on the backlash. Can anyone post up some pics of a Girdle?
And would anyone care to elaborate on the ring gear support?

Lynn
Click to expand...

Ring gear support is a threaded slug thats is welded into the side of the axle housing with a bolt in it that runs in against the side of the ring gear were the pinion impacts the ring gear. It stops the ring gear from flexing away from the pinion
 
DISTURBED said:
Ring gear support is a threaded slug thats is welded into the side of the axle housing with a bolt in it that runs in against the side of the ring gear were the pinion impacts the ring gear. It stops the ring gear from flexing away from the pinion
Click to expand...

:bang:doh: I was having a moment here the ring gear support cant be used in D80 unless you machine the edge of the carrier down smooth. I was thing that the ring gear stuck off the center section a bit like the rockwell but just went and looked at 1 and was mistaken they are almost the same width
 
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