Can a vp44 have too high of pressure

weazel said:
Ok, the pump was installed at a reputable shop. Maybe have him set the pump key to tdc on the gear, then slide the pump back to verify the numbers on the key like these guys are saying. It won't be the installation, as Johnny has installed a butt load of these pumps. I am curious to see if the pump builder might have stuck in a different key, by accident or just did it to have one in there...

Have you checked the wiring on the pump to verify no chaffing?
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Johnny and I have went back and forth with those damn wires. Hell we drove it around hooked up to the computer and rigged a pressure gauge on it. It never acts stupid around him and if it does it dies and restarts with no issue. While it's running, johnny pulled on wires, checked ecm, we've pulled the pump plug million and 2 times. The only thing is if there is a wire broke inside the insulation, but even at that it only acts dumb when it wants too. Ohming wires can lead us to believe it's perfectly fine if it's not in that certain position. The harness and the fuel pressure are the last two things we haven't done.... besides the key inspection. Johnny is the one who referred me to m&d, he's never had this trouble. Now from the beginning, it had throttle loss and chugging, then it died. That was the factory pump, now with the pump changed out it did the same. Warrantied the pump for faulty issuses, and 2nd pump does the same. 2nd pump has same issues even with a new ecm, just throwing different codes. Process of elimination, tells me the factory pump had the same issue, and rebuild one and 2 have the same issue. So in my mind the key isn't the issue but won't go left un checked. The ecm has been replaced, only thing left is the harness and or Casper the unfriendly ghost
 
Checked all grounds? Battery cables (positive and negative) for resistance? Alternator for AC noise (failed rectifier). Closley inspected the pins on the harness for both the pump and ECM? Those sometimes push into the harness, and can be replaced. I truly believe in the KISS method. It usually is something simple before it is something complicated. If you don't have clean electrical paths and clean DC generation it can create all sorts of anomalies that can seem like a ghost in the system.
 
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Shainer said:
Checked all grounds? Battery cables (positive and negative) for resistance? Alternator for AC noise (failed rectifier). Closley inspected the pins on the harness for both the pump and ECM? Those sometimes push into the harness, and can be replaced. I truly believe in the KISS method. It usually is something simple before it is something complicated. If you don't have clean electrical paths and clean DC generation it can create all sorts of anomalies that can seem like a ghost in the system.
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Yes we've checked grounds, and voltage. I've been over the pins several times. I cleaned all contacts there, ac noise is possible...
 
Shainer said:
Checked all grounds? Battery cables (positive and negative) for resistance? Alternator for AC noise (failed rectifier). Closley inspected the pins on the harness for both the pump and ECM? Those sometimes push into the harness, and can be replaced. I truly believe in the KISS method. It usually is something simple before it is something complicated. If you don't have clean electrical paths and clean DC generation it can create all sorts of anomalies that can seem like a ghost in the system.
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What is the KISS method?
 
Ok today, I went to run a few errands and it happened again. This time the idle slowly lowered and had no chugging. I pulled over and waited to see if it was going to die. Then on take off it died. I waited for a moment it started, so I turned around. Then it lost throttle, lots of white smoke and died. Waited for maybe 5 mins cranked it up and headed home. On the way home it ran like a champ , like nothing happened at all. Checked the codes at when I got home and 0216 has reappeared.
 
I run 26psi all day long for years, no skipping, hiccuping or anything like that.
 
Skipping, hiccuping may be your TPS maybe not getting the right voltage from the ECM, doubt it though since you got it rebuilt.
 
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weazel said:
The key should have been pressed into the shaft of the pump.
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Hey weazel, I have found the root of my problem, the wireharness is on its death. Several pins from the ecm to the vp44 pump have high resistance. Would you know of anyone that would have an unmolested harness?
 
I was going to suggest crank/cam sensors be checked/replaced, but...

I have several VP wiring harnesses of varying years. What year is your truck?
It will help if you have a part number from yours.

Mark.
 
Mark Nixon said:
I was going to suggest crank/cam sensors be checked/replaced, but...

I have several VP wiring harnesses of varying years. What year is your truck?
It will help if you have a part number from yours.

Mark.
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This guy right here ^ can definitely help you out. Holler at Mark and get the info from your truck to him and I'm sure he has something laying around he can sell to you to get you back on the road
 
The crank/cam senor has been replaced... The last time the truck acted up I got under the hood and pulled the loom and tge truck ran fine after that... I hit a bump and it ran like crap a week later, I pulled the loom again and I ran fine. This made me curious so I started ohming. Positives and negatives off I had some resistance like 18 ohms and a few had a bit more. I pulled on the loom and resistance went down to 17ohm. More movement it fluctuated up and down. My pick up is a 2001 2500 4x4 6spd
 
Brand new batteries, I has bad batteries, althea tor tested twice and no negative feedback. It doesn't do this on a daily basis just every now and then it goes nuts
 
I do indeed have the right harness, but to tell the truth, the one on eBay looks better. LOL

Mark.
 
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