Cant figure why my truck wont start. Out of ideas Please help!

May sound silly but it sounds like no12 volts to pin c130 connector for what ever reason.Or the security system "skimm" will let it hit on one cylinder and then nothing but turn over, this works from the key to the cluster. JMHO from my personal conversion truck experiences.My be completely off base.
 
Well I think I found the problem but not sure yet, I need to hook the rail pressure sensor up tommorrow after work. I replaced both batteries and it made the starter spin fast and it started up, but then the airdog 150 went into a high pitch whine and my fuel pressure which normaly is about 17 psi at idle was at 25 psi. then the pump shut off and there was 0 psi at the cp3 so I shut the truck down and found a blown fuse for the airdog, so I replaced the 20 amp fuse and the truck wont restart but spins over fast and there is 0 psi at the cp3 so the airdog isnt working, could a relay be bad for the airdog? LOL I have to laugh because I have had the worst luck latley with this truck when I moved back to Texas after the service. Thanks for all the help and keep it comming.
 
theres another thread that a guy replaced his batteries and his airdog did the same thing. Kinda curious to know what causes this even though i dont have one.
 
well I didnt fix the problem, the airdog had a bad relay, but now the truck still wont start only on starting fluid, and the airdog is working fine again
 
Unless you have the grid heaters disconnected I would not use starting fluid. What part of TX are you in?
 
Where in TX are you? And what kind of RP is it building while you are cranking?
 
I am in Crockett texas, east. I have the heater grid disconnected cause I dont want an explosion. I am going to put my rail pressure gauge on this afternoon and I will post the results. thanks for the help keep it coming, I am trying to fix it myself to learn more about common rails and to save some money.
 
Pull the starter, and take a look at it. It just might not be getting the job done. If i'm wrong i'm wrong, but if not its an easy fix.
 
If it's starting on fluid then it's not starter, if it starts on fluid but ceases to run after fluid is used up it is a fuel issue. Rail psi would be handy to know because if it has good rail psi but no fire at all it would be an electrical issue because it's highly unlikely for all the injectors to crap out at once.
 
If it starts on fluid, but not normally it could be a weak starter! He stated that it started with new batteries. Like I said i may be wrong, but it is something easy to check our and thus rule out. Just a suggestion
 
if the motor is cranking over and starting on ether, the last thing to fuk with would be the starter.have you cracked any of the injector lines to verify that the injectors are getting fuel? Or gotten the rail pressure gauge on?usually if its an electrical issue you will get a code.
 
Well I thought it was the starter but it works good with the new batteries, the truck will start and run fine with starting fluid, but it need the starting fluid to run, I didnt get to put in the rail pressure guage today cause of the rain. I am just getting tired of having to start it with the staring fluid. Also I just got all 6 injectors back from DDP last week and 3 were bad so I had them send me 3 new ones and the other 3 were fine. I took off the smarty and dr. perfomance chip and it still wont start without starting fluid. I tried to unplug the FCA to get max rail pressure and it still will only spin over fast but no start without the starting fluid, I changed 6 injectors tubes and torqued them to 42 foot pounds still didint fix it. No codes either.
 
try tuning the engine over by hand and see how hard it is to turn over. pretty much check the compression if you have access to a kit i would check your cylinder compressions and see if they are low for some reason.

i had the same issue with my truck when i swapped a set of injectors into the truck on one of the nuts for the crossover tubes was crossthreaded and the tube was not seated in the injector correctly caused the engine not to build enough rail pressure to start.
 
Easy to do but sounds stupid, Did you verify that there wasn't copper washers left in the head when you pulled the injectors? If you double up a washer or forget one the connector tube will not line up well. I don't think the fuel is getting to the injector. Put your rail guage on there and get it going. I drove around with either for a week before I found my problem. Middle of summer and some powerstroke guys snickering at the farm store. It gave me some motivation to get wrenchin.
 
Well I got the rail gauge installed, its about 1000-1100 when the starter turns the engine over but when I use stating fluid it idles at about 5000 psi. Also no codes, and the engine is hard to turn over so good compression. what do you guys think? I am sure I pulled the old copper washers off when I pulled the injectors the first time.
 
1000 psi is not enough pressure to start. You are loosing pressure somewhere. If not The tubes then only other possibilities I can think of is rail relief is blown, Injectors return flow too high, or cp3/fca. Other then that I am lost.
 
I am going to pull the injector tubes again this weekend to see what is up with them, The cp3 is new I just got all 6 injectors back from DDP and they are good, FCA was changed also and its fine, and the rail is capped.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top