Cutting 160 pump for 13mm p&b's

BramanteCummins

BramanteCummins

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I've been looking for sources and think I found what I'm looking for, now I need to know how critical and the tolerances held down the bores. No, I don't have a bench but I know people who do so that is not a concern. I was thinking of possibly getting the bores DLC'd (diamond-like carbon) as it is extremely hard and has an extremely low friction property. Plans are to run the cam out of a 215 pump as well to get rid of the horrible 160 pump fueling curve. Possibly get the backside of the cam reground.
 
Do you plan to bore out the 12mm barrels from the 160 pump to 13mm and then create new 13mm plungers?

You'd probably be money ahead to buy 8-10 sets of Chinese 13mm plungers and barrels then pick the best 6 and modify or true them up in preparation for your dlc treatment.
 
I found plungers and barrels for 13 bucks a piece, that looks to be my best option. Any idea of the tolerance as far as fitment goes?
 
BramanteCummins said:
I found plungers and barrels for 13 bucks a piece, that looks to be my best option. Any idea of the tolerance as far as fitment goes?
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I've heard the tolerance is in 10,000th's but I don't have first hand experience with delicate internal pump work so don't rely on my hearsay.



There have been quite a few Chinese plunger/barrel failures when people started using them a few years back. Make certain you have an air shut-off on your truck if you go that route in-case you hang the rack. I would hate to see someone seriously injured from some "cheap parts".
 
Big Blue24 said:
I've heard the tolerance is in 10,000th's but I don't have first hand experience with delicate internal pump work so don't rely on my hearsay.



There have been quite a few Chinese plunger/barrel failures when people started using them a few years back. Make certain you have an air shut-off on your truck if you go that route in-case you hang the rack. I would hate to see someone seriously injured from some "cheap parts".
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All the surfaces are getting a very good look over and touch up to prevent hangups.

I intend on a shut off as well. Why do people put them on the nozzle of the turbo though? If it runs away and starts sucking oil from the turbo then what? I see it being more effective at the intake manifold.
 
Doesn't matter if it sucks oil from the turbo, if it can't get any air it won't be able to burn the oil.
 
Wow, yea I'm thinking too much and not using common sense. Even at that though, I'd think its better to have it post turbo with an external spring gate. To maintain boost pressure
 
I'll cross that bridge when I get there....

Back to the pump... Does anyone see any reason to not DLC the parts?
 
I'd be leery of $13/piece barrels and plungers. Considering Bosch ones are in the neighbourhood of $150/piece, I have a tough time imagining there is that much markup without a large quality disparity.
 
Tate said:
I'd be leery of $13/piece barrels and plungers. Considering Bosch ones are in the neighbourhood of $150/piece, I have a tough time imagining there is that much markup without a large quality disparity.
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150???? Local diesel shop would set me up with them at 117 a piece. Genuine Bosch. Gotta Dig around for prices and you get the best deal.
 
ive stuck a 13 with junk plungers and barrells no fun buy the good ones but thats just my $.02
 
Up N Smoke said:
ive stuck a 13 with junk plungers and barrells no fun buy the good ones but thats just my $.02
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I have more to offer in skills than money, I think I'm gonna order a couple sets of the cheap ones and pretty them up. What is usually the cause of a stuck rack with these types of failures?
 
BramanteCummins said:
Wow, yea I'm thinking too much and not using common sense. Even at that though, I'd think its better to have it post turbo with an external spring gate. To maintain boost pressure
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Sorry to derail again, but how would you keep from leaking boost putting it post-turbo? Somebody making one that's sealed?
 
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