F250/Cummins Swap

Got back at this over the weekend. I haven't done a whole lot lately. I ended up having to pull the engine rearward to clear the fan shroud. That meant my charge air pipes had to be sectioned and rewelded. I completely reworked the drive side and ended up with a much better fit. Made a bracket to mount the new pedal to the adjustable pedal carriage. I made an upper radiator hose. That completes the cooling system. I shattered the upper fan shroud that I got from bracker8040. I had repaired it and had it looking good. I leaned on it without realizing what I was doing broke the repairs I made.

I don't intend to keep this throttle long term. I'm thinking I may redesign the bracket with a 0.75"-1" offset to the right.
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Keep up the good work. First couple of pictures are broken,on my phone atleast
 
Mucho better, so doing the pedal like that retains the factory power pedals? I haven't looked that close at mine yet.
 
Keep up the great work, the pics you uploaded yesterday do look a little funky for some reason.
 
thatguy69 said:
Mucho better, so doing the pedal like that retains the factory power pedals? I haven't looked that close at mine yet.
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It does. I made a snapchat yesterday of the pedals ranging front to rear, but didn't save it.
I couldn't bring myself to put the dodge apps in it, and the long term plan is to use the Ford throttle controls to drive the cummins ecm via a module.



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New shroud trimmed. I took photos to show how much was cut off. The trim engages a molded lip. The center 1/3 of the shroud wasn't cut and still has the lip to retain it. The outsides I applied RTV to stick the trim in place.
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Not sure what I'm going to do about that silly power stroke logo

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Well...... Ran engine long enough for cam break-in. Pulled some stupid and smoked the new alternator. Also pulled another stupid and sealed the crank case shut and then ran it at top engine limit. Noticed oil dripping from the front of the engine and realized what I had done. I've got to get my crank case vent sorted out. Hoping this seal is going to get over itself. First run I had left the fill cap off. Had two minor coolant leaks, fixed one and need new clamps to fix the other.



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biggy238 said:
Well...... Ran engine long enough for cam break-in. Pulled some stupid and smoked the new alternator. Also pulled another stupid and sealed the crank case shut and then ran it at top engine limit. Noticed oil dripping from the front of the engine and realized what I had done. I've got to get my crank case vent sorted out. Hoping this seal is going to get over itself. First run I had left the fill cap off. Had two minor coolant leaks, fixed one and need new clamps to fix the other.



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Progress! :clap: It’s really looking good!

How is the motor setup? Cam, fuel, air, etc?
 
bracker8040 said:
Progress! :clap: It’s really looking good!



How is the motor setup? Cam, fuel, air, etc?
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Hhhhmmm it's a bunch of junk with performance parts here and there.
6.7 block decked, 5.9 head, stock fly cut pistons, 5.9 crank, Carillo rods, manton pushrods, 188/210 cam, CM849 ecm, stock injector bodies with 75hp nozzles. SFI flex plate. ARP fasteners all over.

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biggy238 said:
Hhhhmmm it's a bunch of junk with performance parts here and there.
6.7 block decked, 5.9 head, stock fly cut pistons, 5.9 crank, Carillo rods, manton pushrods, 188/210 cam, CM849 ecm, stock injector bodies with 75hp nozzles. SFI flex plate. ARP fasteners all over.

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Sounds good. Oughta run pretty well.
 
I need a 5/8" hose for power steering between the res and pump, has to have one 90° bend, if anyone knows a part number.

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Oh yeah, I've had the vac line for the auto hubs stuck in a hole in the battery tray since the cab was off. No problems, just chilling. I go to install the solenoid and plumb the think, the the vac line is MIA. I go searching, and it's now between the coil bucket and frame, and broken. So now I'm really suspicious the issue I had with the auto hubs a couple winters back was because the thing was already fractured.

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2wpuller said:
What is the fuel peddle out of ?

Dale
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07-08 cummins equipped F750. It has a bracket to mount it to the firewall since the cabs are the same. I just removed it so I can put it on the adjustable pedal.


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Let's see. Wrenched all day Thursday. Changed the oil and filter, took an oil sample. Tip: use a zip lock bag to catch the filter while you spin with the other hand. Installed a fumoto drain valve.
Trimmed the hose for the power steering reservoir and filled it. Didn't take a picture.

I used the induction heater to heat and then bend the TV lever. Tack welded the nut with the tig welder. Painted and installed it. I'd like to use a ball-socket and build a linkage to fix it in place.

Swapped out the leaking spring clamps on my shunt line for the oem spring clamps that Minton Motors in BG kindly donated to the cause. Filled the cooling system. Immediately saw that the drain on the radiator was leaking. When I drained the water, I pulled the plug, and apparently lost the o-ring.

Installed the wiring to the transfer case.

Had to clock the turbo and discharge pipe to clear the 4WD hub solenoid. NBD but annoying.

The reman alt blew up last weekend. I R&I'd it last Sunday. Completed the wiring on the new one and had it charging at 14V.

Jumped in it to start it and realized the key had been on since Sunday. Charged it and started it. Let it run a bit and pulled It in to gear. Nothing. Forgot I hadn't topped up the trans since connecting the lines to the cooling pack.
Pull it to neutral and add fluid. Put it back in gear and it rotates the wheels. About that time, I start hearing this slap. I walk to the fender and it does the shudder and the knock/slap is getting worse. Walk to the nose and see it leaking trans fluid. Shut it off and inspect. Find that 3 of the fan pulley bolts are backed out. Figure out the noise is the pulley walking around on the hub.

The leak is a Pinhole in the trans line where I welded the AN adapter on, and now everything in a radius around the fan is covered in trans fluid.

I drained the coolant so I could remove the upper rad hose and upper shroud, and then ran out of time.

I'm not sure whether I'm going to repair or update the trans lines with new parts. I re-used the oem lines, adding weld on ends to make them AN compatible.




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