F250/Cummins Swap

So, I had a problem I though I had fixed, but it turned back up. When I had the valve cover powder coated, it warped. It had been fine, but I pulled the cover off to look at doing a retorques and valve lash, and the cover decided it didn't really need to seal any more. I tried to persuade it back into shape at the house with no luck, so 150 ton Dake, here we come. It's looking pretty straight again.

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Getting the Anteater set up with a new tune file. I actually had a nice driving file set up yesterday before I figured out the valve cover was bleeding to death.
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Does anyone drive a diesel that has vacuum actuated hubs? I need to know how the lines run to the vac solenoid for the hubs from the vacuum accumulator.

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Looks like 7C3Z-7A784-C is what I'm after

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Well. I guess I'm going to play the weakest link game. Hose-Tube is replaced. It's anchored solidly now. The bottom one will be the next to go.

On that note, what kind of pressure should I be seeing from the cooling circuit for the trans?
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So some of these ford's came with vacuum actuated hubs? And idk how much psi comes out of the trans and into the cooler but I've blown the cooler supply line a couple of times because of personal mistakes. It's got to be a decent amount id say
 
Yeah, the trucks with electric transfer cases have vacuum actuated hubs.

That's the vac solenoid on the radiator shroud.

I took a heat gun and re-moulded the lines so that they clear the charge air pipe. I took another section and repaired the line to the hubs that apparently broke when we pulled the cab.

I reclocked the turbo to get the cac pipe away from that solenoid. Now it's hitting the hood in two places. I'm going to try and make everything get along.
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Drove the truck to work. Changed the oil again.

The locking dip stick does need to be calibrated. Full is about 1qt above the full mark. Verified with two consecutive oil changes.

Fuel........ Or not to fuel. Maintains between 10 and 14psi at the distribution block.

The gasser fill neck is crimped **** so the truck can't take fuel. I'm going to cut out the crimp and put a union in it of some sort.

I'm also curious about the specific density of the gasser fuel level float in diesel fuel.

After I put fuel in it the other day, (very, very slowly) the gauge on the dash went through the floor.
I guess I reversed the wiring or location when the fuel module was reinstalled.
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biggy238 said:
It's the little things. PRNDL - YouTube

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What all did it take to get that working correctly? And also my truck has the power transfer case, but still has the ability to lock the hubs manually. Wondering if it has both vac actuators and the manual ability? Guess I need to go out and look at it lol
 
Which that?

The vac hubs still have normal looking locking hubs on the wheel ends.

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thatguy69 said:
What all did it take to get that working correctly? And also my truck has the power transfer case, but still has the ability to lock the hubs manually.
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Most of the SD's I've seen have vacuum hubs. Conversion to Warn manual hubs is a common mod. Yours may have been changed.
 
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This is true. Mine were acting up before I found the cracked line. They would lock but not unlock.

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biggy238 said:
Which that?

The vac hubs still have normal looking locking hubs on the wheel ends.

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Your range selector readout. About 6 more months and I should be able to start tearing into my swap, this barn build is killing me. Until then I'll keep living vicariously through your thread :Cheer:
 
thatguy69 said:
Your range selector readout. About 6 more months and I should be able to start tearing into my swap, this barn build is killing me. Until then I'll keep living vicariously through your thread :Cheer:
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That depends on the transmission you intend to use.

It uses a device that Joefarmer and I conspired to build. It takes a two wire input from a potentiometer and converts it to the output form that the Ford needs to see. I'm planning to package it so that it straps to the bottom of the column and rides on the bellcrank that the shift lever attaches to.

Right now, it skips 3rd on the display since the 47RE only has PRND21 and the for had PRND321. We discussed having overdrive off illuminate the 3 indicator but there are several other concerns involved surrounding that.

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Aaaadddd. Even with the crimp in the vent tube cut out the tank won't fill. My wiring is on the Sending unit backwards to the needle on the dash is possessed.

I need to fix some holes in the bed floor and get it Line-X'd, so I guess I'll try to coordinate getting all that done.

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I need to get a good image of the vacuum system and post. It uses the pump that Jacob's exhaust packaged for the exhaust brakes.
The vacuum line runs from it to the accumulator that is built into the bottom of the coolant expansion tank. There is a T fitting that connects to the vacuum booster.
The other part of the vacuum circuit is the original vacuum port that comes up on the front of the expansion tank and supplies the solenoid for the hubs.
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biggy238 said:
That depends on the transmission you intend to use.

It uses a device that Joefarmer and I conspired to build. It takes a two wire input from a potentiometer and converts it to the output form that the Ford needs to see. I'm planning to package it so that it straps to the bottom of the column and rides on the bellcrank that the shift lever attaches to.

Right now, it skips 3rd on the display since the 47RE only has PRND21 and the for had PRND321. We discussed having overdrive off illuminate the 3 indicator but there are several other concerns involved surrounding that.

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Click to expand...
Yours is special. Mine just plugs into a 48RE NSS and puts the correct display on the dash.
 
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