F250/Cummins Swap

Found my level issue.
The wire was attached by a strand. The rheostat also has an area worn through. I will fix it.... Some time..... Later.

The vent lines in the top of the tank are no-where near large enough to keep up with the in-rush of diesel fuel. I made some changes to the lines attached to the vents that lead to the evap canister (unhooked of course) but it still didn't help.
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Emergency main seal repair. It was pushing oil out around the outer diameter. Used an air hammer to cut a line (not through) the wear sleeve to remove it. Cleaned the crank and used an induction heater to expand the new sleeve. I didn't get it hot enough to drop all the way on, so I used the other induction heater to heat it in place and it dropped right on. Popped a new seal in (with bearing mount) and put it back together.

Also upgraded to the anteater pro, and wired my fuel pump relay to the ecm.
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A friend had given me a bulkhead from a fass or airdog. I re-purposed it into a tank vent. Ignore the hose, it's being replaced.
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I forgot to mention that the diesel tanks have this similar breather port. The gas trucks did not since it has/had the evap system. Now that I know this works properly, I'm going to mold a polymer line with quick connect and buy a diesel filler neck to connect it to.

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Well, it has tap-shift, and I'm going to be installing a shift lever with the feature in the near future.

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Love my anteater pro. Tapshift is great for towing in town or stop and go traffic with a high pressure vb, plus the live readouts are nice. Your column doesn't have the tapshift buttons or are those buttons not compatible in the ford?also where are you planning on mounting the display
 
Love my anteater pro. Tapshift is great for towing in town or stop and go traffic with a high pressure vb, plus the live readouts are nice. Your column doesn't have the tapshift buttons or are those buttons not compatible in the ford?also where are you planning on mounting the display
Didn't have the buttons on the 09-10 Ford.

I'm thinking about having a mount printed to replace the coin holder that's below the AC controls.

My CAD skills are awful so....

I may pull the holder out and model it this weekend so that I can integrate the two.
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Yeah drawing in cad/fusion 360 is a skill I aspire to get better at. I have my 3d printer dialed in great just need to get better at creating things
 
Doe(h)! Tagged one this morning. Trashed bumper and stuck a caliper from the emergency stop.

Can't win.
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So, I've never ever been able to get the plastic trim off the column without breaking some of the clips, and this was no exception.

Once that is done, one torx, two 5.5mm screws and a wiring connector and the oem shift lever is off.

I added some wiring to extend the new 11-16 levers wiring, a small pcb that functions as a resistor tree to match the input the anteater needed to see, and also attached to OD off circuit in the lever to the OD off pads on the pro remote.

Pop all of it back together the way is was removed.

I also added some blue film to turn the ant remote blue like all my other instrumentation.

Works perfectly.
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Tagged a doe a few weeks ago with our 2018 F-150. GRRR
Luckily the plastic bumper cover was all that was damaged, new one off eBay for $25
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Hhrrrrmmmmm bluuuuuuuuuue

I think my next mod is to make the LED's on the anteater remote to glow dimly so they can be seen easier at night. Don't really need them with the new shifter installed but, ya know.... I can so I'm going to try.
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Anyone have experience with a tuner that can turn off the MIL on the 5.4's PCM? I'm thinking if I dig around long enough with forscan I can toggle the led off but there's also some risk involved there.

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You know... I didn't think about efi

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At this point you could probably disassemble the cluster and remove the MIL LED.
I could. I've already replaced the back lighting with blue LED's.
I wanted to see if I could be selective with some sort of tuning so that it did still function for some things.
Just exploring options

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