Just finished reading all 20 pages of this thread. You did an extremely clean install on this swap. I also have a 2008 F350 that was originally a 5.4L gas truck. I swapped a p-pumped 24v with nv4500 into it. I have a 6.7 cummins sitting in the garage that I plan to swap into the truck. Did you manage to get rid of the green wrench light on your dash? I also used the swap helper for my tach signal but the battery light will still comes on randomly.
F250/Cummins Swap
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biggy238
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I know I'm late to this but Incase anyone else encounters it, Using the Cummins alternator mains the ecm doesn't receive the SMART (I think that's what ford called it ) feedback. I assume it's monitoring wave form but I never dug into it. I did buy a rectifier group from a ford alt thinking I could graft it in to the control circuit and make the dash happy, but I never have gone beyond just buying the part.
In my observation, there is some sort of rationality applied at first start that keeps the light out. I don't know if it's elevated rpm for fixed time or not. The farthest I've gotten without the light is 4 miles.
I killed enough codes with HP tuners that I don't have a wrench.
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biggy238
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So I have 40k on the swap now. I had one failure in the form of the power steering suction hose rubbing against the belt line. I knew it had clearances itself early on, but it finally decided to drain the res for me. It did at least get me home. I can't for the life of me remember what hose I cut up. I did find that the hose from A 2013 diesel application is a near dead fit. I needed to truck before I could get the hose, so I pulled it off, put some rtv over the damaged area and reinstalled it after shortening it just a bit.
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biggy238
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When I did the swap, I half-assed the fuel pickup. I didn't want to modify the tank, and the gas burners have a bracket molded to the floor of the tank that supports the canister the fuel pump rides in. When I did the swap, I did a quick and dirty move, I removed the electric pump, swiss-cheesed the canister so fuel could get in easily, and ran a corrugated tube made from a DEF can spout into the bottom of the canister to pick up fuel. It worked, sort of. The trade off was that I only got 23.5 gallons of tank capacity before it started to cavitate. I started having issues with sporadic extended crank time and the last week of August it started white smoking and missing when it was near empty.
The fuel level sensor had a dead spot that would cause a CEL for about 100 miles of every tank. I swapped it out last year with a genuine part, but I bent the rod on the float so that it matched the capacity more closely. It got to where I would lose fuel pressure at 1/8th of a tank.
About a week ago I went and got another pickup assembly from a junk yard. I made a model of the canister in Fusion 360 but modified it so that the pickup and return lines connected to it with openings at just above the floor. I modeled the canister as two parts, the walls and the sump, so that I could move the sump vertically off the floor if I wanted. After I got everything apart, I ended up moving the sump 1/4" up before I installed everything. I also bent the float rod back to it's original shape. I've got 250 miles down, showing half a tank and FP is steady at 13.6 any time below 50% throttle. I pulled it down to 12.2 psi at WOT.
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The fuel level sensor had a dead spot that would cause a CEL for about 100 miles of every tank. I swapped it out last year with a genuine part, but I bent the rod on the float so that it matched the capacity more closely. It got to where I would lose fuel pressure at 1/8th of a tank.
About a week ago I went and got another pickup assembly from a junk yard. I made a model of the canister in Fusion 360 but modified it so that the pickup and return lines connected to it with openings at just above the floor. I modeled the canister as two parts, the walls and the sump, so that I could move the sump vertically off the floor if I wanted. After I got everything apart, I ended up moving the sump 1/4" up before I installed everything. I also bent the float rod back to it's original shape. I've got 250 miles down, showing half a tank and FP is steady at 13.6 any time below 50% throttle. I pulled it down to 12.2 psi at WOT.
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biggy238
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I went on a trip to Michigan the week after the power steering hose deal. In the picture with the camper shell, it's got a spare on this side, and a junker on the driver side. I hit a broken expansion gap on I65 that pretty much launched the entire truck. I broke one belt in Ft Wayne which turned in to a cluster, and then the passenger let go 1000 miles later in Manitowoc WI. On a Saturday evening. I ended up having to cut the spare down, not because the winch was corroded, but because who ever installed the spare overtightened it, which bent one of the rivets that holds the thing together and lets the winch ratchet. I cut it apart to diagnose why it cost me an overnight stay when I got back home.
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Strokersace
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biggy238
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From the most awesome tourist trap I've ever been to right outside Indy on I-69.
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thatguy69
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My 08 just recently started with the battery light bullshit and I've been swapped for almost two years now. I do know my one and only battery is shot, and it went to **** the same time the battery light started this non sense. It started just coming up intermittently for a brief second but now it's mainly staying on. The pcm saysy voltage is running between 13.00-13.6 which seems low.
biggy238
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Did you use the Cummins or Ford alt?
I lied about my wrench being out. I guess I had gotten used to it.
My oil pressure switch is not wired correctly, so when it has pressure, the idiot light is on, and the temperature gauge is flat lined. With that and the alt light in, the wrench stays.
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thatguy69
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Ford alternator
thatguy69
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LOL, well hopefully tune 1 was all it took then1000 pounds heavier and 300 miles of 85+mph. Also found out my CSP5 switch came unhooked. I needed to show a dually what was up in Nashville last night and tune 1 was all it had.
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biggy238
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I ran out of room because a versa cut over into the lane I was in. ???
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biggy238
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Anyone have any experience repairing chrome coated plastic like what's in the grille? Something I washed the truck in caused it to bubble/web in two spots. I'm torn between taking a heat gun to it it getting a syringe and putting adhesive in it. I actually bought a wire mesh grille to put in it but the surround was black and I didn't like the look against the other chrome trim in the truck.
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RascalMafia
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I'm unaware of a process to un**** that. Either strip / sand / paint, wrap, or replace as far as I know.
Every 12v/24v I've owned has encountered that same problem. Never considered it being attributed to cleaning agents, just Dodge junk.
Every 12v/24v I've owned has encountered that same problem. Never considered it being attributed to cleaning agents, just Dodge junk.
thatguy69
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Mines bubbled pretty good, new ones ain't cheap.
biggy238
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Ran through Smokey Mtn Nat park to Maggie Valley and then across the Blue Ridge to Asheville. Looks like 16 is fairly attainable with higher numbers if I lug it on back roads. Still not bad averages since I ran as fast as I could on the interstates.
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biggy238
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I've been noticing my voltage waving on the CTS2 and the other night when we rolled in the dome lamp was pulsing. In my typical fashion something is going to have to die before I mess with it, but it worries me that it's the ecm rather than the alternator.
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