F250/Cummins Swap

Transmission linkage clip.
 

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Is there a way to safety wire around that clip to hold the tang from releasing?
 
bateman said:
Is there a way to safety wire around that clip to hold the tang from releasing?
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I thought that was the issue to begin with, but the issue is tooth engagement and not the clip shifting side to side which is what the tang orevents. I printed another clip with 0.1mm more material where the teeth are, in hopes to force more mesh. So far it's lasted longer than the other versions. I'm suspicious that the ball socket piece on shift lever is worn and that's what's allowing the vertical travel that allows the teeth to ride over one another.
 
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Here's what I'm working with, just a newer clip. I'm slipping in the left to right plane, not losing the clip in the up and down plane.

Ultimately this is just a patch for what a new cable would probably fix. It's been an ongoing issue since I did the swap and I think the clip has come loose so many times that it has worn the rack in the end of the cable it engages.

The root cause was that the foxed throttle valve lever retainer was situated low enough that the clip was bumping the TV rod when I put it in park, and after so many cycles it would kick sideways off the rack. Usually happened every six months or so.
I placed some washers under the TV lever bracket to get it out of the same plane as the linkage and then cooked the clutches a week later 😁
 
Maybe just leave some vice grips dangling under there to hold tension ha

I really hate plastic shit on my machines.
 
Nightmare90gt said:
What did you use for the fittings on the radiator for the upper and lower hose?
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I cut the bands on the ford radiator hoses and harvested the ends. I put them in 3rd gen ram hoses and used gates SB clamps to reassemble them.
 
Version 4 of the trans linkage clip is still holding.

I have a weird issue I can't figure out because of the circumstance around it, well, actually it's two.

The first one: Any time The brake pedal travels a certain distance (far enough to actually come to a stop) I get this noise like a rubber boot slipping up a shaft, or dropping marble sized balls into a container. The completely stupid thing is that it only happens with the truck moving.

Second one: Since putting the trans back in, I have an intermittent grinding like a wheel bearing is going out. I thought I damaged the locking hub on the driver side (the noise sounds and feels like driver side floor pan/wheel well) when I loaded the truck on the gooseneck to bring it home. It wasn't fully engaged and popped when it did lock.

It isn't yaw dependent, and not speed dependent. When it does do it, it seems like I can moderate it by going on and off the throttle. I can't duplicate the noise on jack stands.
It would be identical to a wheel bearing going down except it comes and goes and doesn't change with side load on the wheels. It actually seems to stop in a curve, probably because I'm off the throttle.

It isn't gear specific, and not constant, so I don't suspect the trans. It's more like something contacts the floor pan.

I may just proactively replace the booster and master cylinder. At 275k I'm sure they are both worn.
 

I think we have this narrowed down to the body mount compressing. I didn't look at it yet, but a coworker says the body mount directly under the drive floor board can be spun by hand.

Dorman body mounts are trash. Good thing I only paid for two of the eight of them. 😁
 
I loosened and retorqued the body mount. Made no difference, but I think it has a sleeve that keeps it from compressing any more than it is. I'm gonna try and add a washer or two. Hearing the Daystars aren't bad for the price. Of course there is S&B but they seem to want to keep them at that price.
 
It definitely isn't the body mount causing the issue. I pulled it apart when I got to work, lubricated the bushing and reassembled it. No change in the noise at all.
 
Daystars are terrible and you might as well put billet spacers in. Don't cheap out and just get S&B or No Limit bushings.
 
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