F250/Cummins Swap

Dodge donor organ is rejecting its receiver again...
What do ya think let go this time? Were you in the midst of a traffic light acceleration contest with some unsuspecting mouth running 7.3 owner? 😁
Hope yall get it worked out without too much financial rape.
 
1320Cummins said:
Dodge donor organ is rejecting its receiver again...
What do ya think let go this time? Were you in the midst of a traffic light acceleration contest with some unsuspecting mouth running 7.3 owner? 😁
Hope yall get it worked out without too much financial rape.
Click to expand...
I think it's the same thing again, tap shifting into second gear with a load behind it shoots the seal off the rear clutch piston. It still has 1st, 2nd and R. It build line pressure cold and then fades off. It gets to ride behind a powerstroke on the way back home.
 
1000002057.jpg1000002059.jpg1000002061.jpg1000002066.jpg

Filter is absolute full of ****.
I'm stumped on what actually failed here. The Goerend forward clutch piston did it's job in my estimation. Both seals are perfect. The Belleville/return spring was in its place. It has some markings here and there but is functionally fine. I managed to score the pump.
I'm suspicious that I ran the filter longer than I should have, causing the pump to cavitate and cooking the forward clutch pack. The interesting thing to me is that several of the steels and the frictions that aren't damaged have markings that make it look like the reaction plate it flexing to the interior diameter, causing the clutches to touch up on the inside first and concentrating heat to the inner diameter of each clutch.
 
So no one seems to really know why the inside diameter of the steels blued.

I got my care package. Clutch stack is back together. Probably throw the trans together tonight and try to be back in the truck tm. It's supposed to storm here so I don't think I'll have weather to do much else.
 
BigPapa said:
I don’t. If it was mine, I’d call Goerend.
Click to expand...
Two other large trans shops don't seem to know. I showed it to my guys over at CAT and I got a out the same answer I had.

I put it back together this morning. Need to mate it to the tcase and back in the truck still. I got to the point that I needed to move the truck inside, get the lifts and take one trans off the jack to get mine on. Decided it was time to relax for a bit.
 
Transmission is back in and got me home. I lowered line pressure about 15psi. 2nd gear band needs readjusted, but otherwise it does all the transmission things.
I ended up replacing the pump, the forward clutch group, and the tail shaft seal. I'm not convinced it was leaking but it's gone now.
I pressure washed the trans and Tcase, and then repainted the trans. I got everything nice and dry and back together and then overfilled the trans so it du.ped fluid out the vent and down the converter. The road to hell is paved in good intentions. I made a note of how many quarts to stop at in my phone. I guess I'm old.
Anyway, it rattles the dash on the 1-2 shift like it did before. Hoping it stays that way for a while. I think I'm going to run it 500 miles, swap the filter and kidney loop the fluid and reuse it. $143 for a 5 gallon bucket.
 
Trans is in. Had an issue with the 2nd gear band that is sorted now, but I have an issue that I don't quite understand.

Problem #1

After test driving, I noticed that I don't have a 2-3 shift when the anteater is commanding a 2-3 shift. To begin with, I was wrong on how many turns to back out the adjusting screw. I went out 2 7/8 turns. I drove it home, wasn't right, drove it to work yesterday morning and then rode with a friend to a car show. When I got back. I reset the band, turning it 1 7/8 turns, and then drove it home. It still wasn't right, so I came back to work this morning and reset the band again, test drove it, and the bind was obvious at that point. I brought it back in, loosened it to what would be 2 turns out, and locked it. Problem #1 solved.

Problem #2:

The no 2-3 shift thing.
According to the clutch application chart, the only time the band should have apply pressure is when 2nd gear is applied. I installed a pressure gauge in the servo port and started testing.

In auto, the trans applies the band on the 2nd gear shift, but it does not release it after that point.

In manual, the band doesn't apply until shifted into direct, and it has discernable shifts for 1,2,D.

The fact that it shifts manually to me means the direct clutch is not hung and working. The only thing I can think of to day after that it tap the low reverse and monitor it to see that 1st is actually being utilized by the electronics in auto.

The last thing is that I'm not certain that this isn't a pre-existing issue and I'm just keyed up on it now because I just reassembled everything.
I am to the point that I think the valve body,mainly the 2-3 shift valve isn't functional.
I need someone that knows these transmissions to chime in I guess
 
Send the valvebody to firepunk, and have them go through it and set it up their way.

I spent a pile of money breaking Trans after a few passes. Their valvebody and never had another issue. I had some kinda bind going on during shifts before.
 
jasonc said:
Send the valvebody to firepunk, and have them go through it and set it up their way.

I spent a pile of money breaking Trans after a few passes. Their valvebody and never had another issue. I had some kinda bind going on during shifts before.
Click to expand...
This one went to them the last time I cooked it. I have another virgin VB I think i am going to send to be built that came out of this trans back in 07.
 
Quick update, after more troubleshooting, I don't have feedback from the governor pressure sensor, and the governor is going to 105psi, straight from 1st to 3rd. I'm not sure how it can do that. I should have a new sensor tomorrow and I'm gonna check the wiring while the pan is down. The debate will be to put the old gov solenoid back in or keep the new one.
 
Trans is functioning. I think I fumbled the solenoid when I put it in the retainer and it wasn't seated in the valve body all the way. There are two machined grooves right next to each other. I replaced the sensor anyway, so one of the two fixed it. I had to change the governor modifier in the Anteater Dash so I changed the shift points. I had forgotten what a crisp 3-2 downshift felt like.

While I had the pan down I inspected the fines in the bottom of the pan. I found one fragment the size of a pencil eraser and shaped like a shark fin. It wasn't there when I had the clutch stack out. I'm going to run it a while and replace the filter again and see what pops up.

The rear pinion seal is leaking now. Planning to reseal the hubs, pinion and replace the backing plates in one sitting.
 
I didn't take pictures, so use your imagination. The pinion seal started leaking literally the night I put the transmission back in. I know this because one of my coworkers chuckled that I hadn't killed the rear end yet and we both looked at it. Two days later it had a happy trail down the bottom of the case.
Anyway, I build rear ends and other powertrain components from time to time, so I was like WTH, I'll just reset the lash and reseal it and see what happens. I had a vague idea of the preload procedure between forums and youtubez. I got it on the rack, got the rotating torque with everything on. I thought about using a dial indicator to get end play but decided not to. I'm guessing radial play at the yoke flange was 0.010" - 0.015". I marked the nut, pinion and flange and then got the depth from the flange to the end of the pinion. 19.91mm. I pulled the yoke and drained the case. What I did do different: the YouTubers were marking the nut and after replacing the seal, they tighten the nut to the exact same position it came off in.

I have a problem with this. Lip Seals don't really just go bad. They die because of radial or axis play in the assembly, mechanical abrasion or chemical abrasion /incompatibility. Over pressurization isn't really a seal failure. With that being said, if the seals are leaking, putting it back with the same preload/end play is just going to allow the shaft to run out beyond what the seal can maintain, and you've fixed nothing.

With that said, I pulled the cover, and it's all brick red inside. Small droplets of water everywhere. The teeth weren't in terrible shape but had obvious signs of water related damage. I washed everything in the case with solvent. I knocked in a new seal and slid the yoke into the same indexed position it came from. I ran to nut up and then checked periodically while I hammered the nut down. I hit it until I had set the protrusion to 19.83", random, but it was where my Milwaukee ran out of torque at. I checked rotating torque and it increased 20in/lbs. When I pulled it in the shop, it was at 114 degrees. After I buttoned it up, I drove it home and shot the temp of the case again. Spot on at 114 degrees. It has 270k on it. I'm curious now just how far I can get this gear set to run.
 
Got several tanks of fuel run through on the transmission. Been having trouble with the ford shift linkage. I ended up 3D printing a replacement clip that increases the engagement area by quite a bit, but even that has come loose. I took a pick to the splines on the rack that makes up the cable end in hopes that it just had too much dirt built up and wasn't allowing the splines to engage. If that doesn't do it, I will do another print that forces more engagement.

In other news, anyone know what they are doing to get this hard limit? Is it as simple as flat lining the map at a certain rpm?

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top