F250/Cummins Swap

Welded a Venturi into the down pipe to connect the crank case vent to. Had planned to before I ever built the truck and have put it off. Sure as hell not taking a picture of the nasty ass tig weld. Rest assured it isn't falling out in the highway. Talked with Jason, installation photos show the taper on the tube facing toward and aware from the turbo (flow source) gonna try the opening away from the flow with in my mind is maximum Venturi effect.
 
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Got the fleece bypass out of ford, Tstat replaced and back in. Had to butcher a wrench to get the line tightened back on. I can't get the image to upload, but for some reason, after swapping to the BD exhaust manifold, the heat was melting the nylon braid off of the hose that ran to the thermostat. I added 1/2" to the vertical portion of the bypass hose to get the horizontal section away from the exhaust. I also installed aluminum hose clamps to replace the P-clips that originally attached the hose to the cylinder head. It hose isn't a perfectly straight shot down the cylinder head any more, but I guess I will trade that for not being stranded somewhere. I had to removed the downpipe to have access, to I tig welded a Venturi in to attach the crankcase vent from the oil catch can. The Internet has conflicting information on which way to turn the opening in the pipette. Jason and I agreed that it should open to the direction of flow. We will see.
 
Drove it 100 miles, got back to the house and it's pouring coolant. I expect I rolled and cut the oring on the block adapter. Debating on taking it to work and pulling it down or doing it here at home.

Stupid thing is that I pressure tested it and vacuum tested it before filling. It had to heat cycle before it started leaking.
 
biggy238 said:
Drove it 100 miles, got back to the house and it's pouring coolant. I expect I rolled and cut the oring on the block adapter. Debating on taking it to work and pulling it down or doing it here at home.

Stupid thing is that I pressure tested it and vacuum tested it before filling. It had to heat cycle before it started leaking.
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Fixed that bullshit, tore it down in 1/2hr at lunch. Cut the O-ring at the 12 o'clock position. Lubed the new oring and was able to push the assembly into the back of the block by hand, which I couldn't do last time. I shortened the horizontal hose which shifted it forward toward the thermostat and gave the elbow clearance to avoid the firewall. Pressure tested at 20psi for 15 minutes. Drove it while working on another truck related project and have to leaks. Hopefully I don't have to tangle with that for a while.
 
So your thermostat was bad in the fleece bypass? How did you tell it had failed before removing it and seeing the damage?
 
Red Sleeper said:
So your thermostat was bad in the fleece bypass? How did you tell it had failed before removing it and seeing the damage?
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Last fall It was failing to achieve coolant temp. I removed and replaced the Cummins Tstat (expensive bastard) with no change. Only other way it could do that was if the other Tstat was hung open.
I ran all winter with cardboard over the radiator and it still ran about 130 degrees.
 
The real question is, was this a fluke or did excessive coolant pressure rupture it? The cup plugs in the head have green loctite on them and the block cups are beans or mitusa or whoever the design was licensed to. Mine are pre-production. It's fully possible a high speed pull ruptured it.
 
Venturis welded in. The tig welder and I aren't on speaking terms right now. I think too little amperage was an issue. It's not coming out.
The coolant hose that turned into a wooley worm. I'm not clear on why it was trouble free until I switched to the T4 manifold. Maybe it's just running hotter all the time.
 
IMG_20240522_120824365.jpg posting here since it's been a minute. Tried to turn the AC on the other day. I had put a compressor of and serviced the Freon back in February, but of course there isn't a lot of opportunity to do field testing in winter. Found out that the fuse was shot, which makes since given the condition of the compressor clutch. Popped in a new fuse, and found that the clutch was short-cycling. Pressures were under 200 on high side and dropping into the 20's on the low side. I was being optimistic and thought maybe it was just a bit undercharged. I put in 0.3lbs of Freon and the high side hit 450psi. I immediately pulled the system back down and refilled it to spec, but still no cooling. I knew why but didn't want to face it. Posted on here, whined a bit, then proceeded to search where the orifice tube was located. Since the truck was a gass burner, it's under the battery box on the passenger side inside a tube nut junction in the line. The orifice has all the sparkles. I guess now I get to do a real service and hope that newish compressor doesn't frag out.
 
No pics. AC flushed, new dryer and orifice tube. Pulled the inner fender to get to it. Not too bad from there. Blew about 40 degrees on the way home.

I vacuum bled the brakes and ran an abs purge with the shop's autel. I'm not sure that it's not worse now 😁. I think I'm going to throw a new master cylinder on it some time this summer.
 
Been a minute since I've dropped by. It's hot enough out that my IAT is above 100 degrees in the afternoons. I'm curious if adding a heat shield to the exhaust manifold next to the air filter will help calm that down. I need to get on parts.cummins and find one but haven't had time.

I have a couple of side projects, I've started working on replacing my Anteater Pro remote in my AC vent with a 2.1" touch screen. This thing is way overkill, but it looks good, has Bluetooth and WiFi capability, push button input and the outside of it is a click wheel. This allows menu navigation by rotating the bezel and then pushing a button in addition to just touching the screen. 1000001536.jpg

I 3D printed a bezel that mounts the screen in the ford vent. I had foam stuck in it when I snapped the photo. It's running demonstration software as well.
I've got another project cooking that I'm in hopes to market once I get it streamlined. That's for another day though.
 
I came here to ask about twin turbos.
I've pretty much settled on S464/S488 T4 and Vband on the 88. I'm curious what turbine sizes and AR's seem to work well for an all around utility CR. I've also been eyeballing the Garrett G series but can't find a compressor in the 64mm range.
 
Running a 467 with a 1.10 housing on my high pressure, and on a 12v with alot of timing. It spooled stupid quick.

I bet a 6.7 based CR would be even quicker.
 
When you go compounds, it's so much easier spooling up your high pressure charger.
 
I've had a 67 in the back of my mind. That lets me buy a super core and stick in the housing I have rather than buying a whole turbo. That also gets me into the flow rate/response that the billet 63 had.


The other thing I have in mind is interstage cooling with a stand alone cooling system using a small automotive radiator under the bed. I think I have enough room under the manifold to run an intercooler, but that complicated plumbing quite a unless I face the manifold charger backwards.
 
G45-1125 over G50-1900 looks like a good fit. Curious about liquid cooled chra, as some are and some are not
 
Well I popped the trans. I'm stranded at a hotel in Kokomo. I and trying to sort out how to go on to vacation and get the truck to Bowling Green. My son is bringing our Highlander to get kids and the camper. 😕🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
 
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