F250/Cummins Swap

huck25 said:
What is that plug in the ecm for?
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That's the C2 connector to connect the ECM to the truck. I hadn't started on the harness at that point.

I don't know how many harness photos I've shared.

I weeded out the ford ECM harness to get it down to what I need to make the Cummins run. I reloomed it and all of the chassis side connections run to a 26 pin AMP cam lock connector.

There is a factory bracket below the brake master cylinder that supports the brake lines and has a ford cam lock already. I modified a truss bracket from home Depot into a bracket to mount the AMP connector. The C2 harness jumps about 20 inches from the Cummins ECM to the connector. The chassis side locks down to the top of the engine side. This was done so that disconnecting the engine from the cab was a simple lever in respect to wiring.
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I see I was hoping it was a dummy plug that would allow the engine to run. You must have extreme patience to deal with rewiring.
 
VW is on its **** again. According the the TDI guys, in addition the the VNT being worn, I likely have a tear in the diaphragm causing an all or nothing response from the turbo actuator. I'm not sure if I want to fight with that or source another turbo at this point.

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Damned thing is almost as high as my 472
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As much as a turd as this VW is, I think it deserves its own thread. Sounds like you could fill it up quick!
 
Certainly more consistent. Still need a few more mpg out of it.
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The thread about tuning Husqvarna's has me thinking about mine.

I think I caused an issue with my cranking fuel that causes the starter to drag. I've thought it was an issue with the OTIS not liking the fact that the diesel starts slower, but now I'm thinking I cut out too much fuel so the engine stumbles to life rather than kicking off and achieving idle speed quickly.

Anyone got any pointers and where to be with that? I haven't messed with the tune in nearly six months now.

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Better than it was. Consistent across the last two tanks.
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If anyone has any tips on getting more economy out of the lawn mower tune, I would listen. I have the main and pilot timing cranked up pretty high to try and gain some efficiency. I have pilot tapering off at 2400rpm, but that also causes an issue with some of my part throttle shifts because the timing causes a notable change in torque right before the shift. It's almost like a PID hunt right before it shifts, completely self inflicted and correctable. A simple rescale of the pilot map would change it. I'm guessing I'm right at 500rwhp on the daily and pulling 15mpg regularly. I would like to be as close to 18 as I can squeeze. I suppose I could always back the power down closer to stock but that's no fun. I plan to run to the East Coast in a couple of weeks and would like to get a road tune worked up.

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Thinking about a 12V tune to try and get the extra economy. I will have to look in to how much timing to offset to compensate. Need someone to mentor me since the last one I had passed away

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Caucasian fuel establishment
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Curry powered fuel

Think the choice is clear.

Thinking about doing fuel testing and starting **** about the cetane content at IGA
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ppssshhhhhhhhhh - YouTube
Dude ran up on me this morning in the right lane while I was trying to get a semi out of the way, I boxed him out because he was trying to cut me off ( you know, safe following distance) so when it opened up I walked him a little. He didn't like it much judging by the fly-by after I let out of it.
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Bowling Green to Outer Banks and back. 16.5mpg with an average speed of 60mph. Kittyhawk National monument. Drove on Corolla Beach and Ocracoke Beach. Had to take a ferry onto and back off of Ocracoke. We wanted to go south to Cedar Island but didn't schedule the ferry soon enough to do that leg. Wifey drove a total of 45 minutes before getting a ticket ? She likes that powa
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So, shutting off pilot after 1200rpm and running 6 degrees of main timing as a minimum had no real impact on mileage. Torque is noticably higher, you can feel the truck jump or draw back just by changing from tune one to two and back. I might take the main table out farther. I meant to log it on the way home yesterday and never did.
It's wild to me that running toward North Carolina on I40 nets me better economy than westbound does. This is two tanks in a year that I've seen that.
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Tailwinds can make a difference.

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That they can. It would be wild to have a similar tail wind on the same route twice.

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So I've been dealing with a noise in the front end that only happens with a side load. I replaced the steering joints in 2022 with moog parts, roughly 25k miles ago.
I inspected the front about a year ago and didn't see anything, just sawing the wheel wouldn't make the noise. I thought it was a body mount, so I retorqued all of them, even ended up hitting them again in December but the noise never really subsided.
Last night on my way home, I had had enough. I got out and used the passenger door to rock the truck like king Kong. Nothing. Not the noise I was hearing. I got the wifey to come out and start sawing the wheel back and forth while I watched. It took a few cycles, but the ball joint that attaches the track bar to the axle is absolutely junk. Like 0.100" of travel junk.

I need to know a trustworthy brand to go with as moog clearly ain't it . Looked at MevoTec the last time I was in it. Thinking about giving them a shot.

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