F250/Cummins Swap

biggy238 said:
To add Insult to injury, I have a coolant leak from the crossover tube the bridges the back of the engine, over the top of the coolant bypass that needs a new tstat.
I guess I'm going to have to figure out how to pull the cab sooner than later. Not really feeling that bottle jack life though.

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How much clearance do you need? Jack the truck up, jackstsnd 4 corners on the cab. Pull your wheels and set the frame down on your rotors once the cabs unbolted. Or make the trip up here and we'll knock er out in a evening
 
I got clearance to do it at work after hours with the lifts. Just have to make time. I can't down the truck right now.

Anyone happen to know the AN sizes on the fleece bypass? I'm thinking -12 but not sure.

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biggy238 said:
Built the one on the right to replace the one on the left. 1.5V drop end to end on the sus cable. Too cold for me to **** with finding out why, but think the crimp is bad on the end that got hot.

Popped the new one in, and 14.8V at every point I checked in the system.

Sometimes I wonder what a shop would charge to TS that kind of ****.

Customer: My amps are shutting off repeatedly.
Shop: When was your last oil change and tire rotation?
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We bill 215.00/hr mobile Diag only do businesses and bodyshops.
 
Nope, 7 trucks on the road wr are booking out 48hrs. Mobile diag guys are dying breed, we go to alot of factory dealerships. Doing a diag right now on a 23 Mercedes check engine light at a corporate dealership. On-board I have 13 factory oem dealer scan tools with full access to service info, programming ect.
 
Mo Smoke said:
Nope, 7 trucks on the road wr are booking out 48hrs. Mobile diag guys are dying breed, we go to alot of factory dealerships. Doing a diag right now on a 23 Mercedes check engine light at a corporate dealership. On-board I have 13 factory oem dealer scan tools with full access to service info, programming ect.
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What market area are you in to have that exposure?

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Mobile Diagnostics and ADAS calibrations, we fix the stuff most shops can't comprehend, CAN Bus especially, circuit and wire faults ect....
 
Mo Smoke said:
Mobile Diagnostics and ADAS calibrations, we fix the stuff most shops can't comprehend, CAN Bus especially, circuit and wire faults ect....
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Sounds awesome. I need to do that for the on-highway market.

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Heads up to stay away from Murray Climate controls compressors. The clutch just exploded on mine with less than 50k and 4 yrs. Reviews state about the same online.

Looking into valeo.

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That valeo you found for me was a special order that was going to have me down until next week. I probably would have liked to have had it but I'll settle for Denso.

I think that clutch was dying for a while and I didn't realize what I was handing. Engine sounds different now.

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biggy238 said:
Mad at it. Small progress though. I got the intake manifold 95% clean. Throttle valve is mostly clean. I bought a blanking kit that didn't remove the EGR valve. I wanted it gone though, so I went and got a freeze plug that was the correct diameter for the bore. Slapped a little 620 or 609 on it and shoved it in the hole. Slapped it and screamed "That's not going anywhere."
Maybe some day I will put it back together.
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Good Thread dont know how I have missed this great work on the truck
Just a lil tip i did one and scrapped forever to get all the carbon out. Another guy show me using a torch and it will burn out.
 
not enoughsmoke said:
Good Thread dont know how I have missed this great work on the truck

Just a lil tip i did one and scrapped forever to get all the carbon out. Another guy show me using a torch and it will burn out.
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Thank You.

You know, I saw that mentioned. I thought about a DPF kiln and decided I would end up tweaking the runners.


It's funny you mentioned that. I got the VW drivable last night. It's a little bit stupid now in a good way.

I ended up having to do the "ziptie mod" to the turbo actuator. I used fence wire which will only last so long.

For those that haven't worked on them, the VNT turbo is vacuum actuated and electronically controlled. The original problem I was having before I went on this war path was being caused by the fact that the VNT was sticking in its maximum travel position, and since it's vacuum extended, there's no force but spring pressure to pull it back to open the vanes. The car would barely run before I did all the work, and it WOULD NOT RUN afterward (**** feeling after time and money spent trying to fix)

The problem is that I fixed the vacuum system, so before it barely had enough vacuum to extended the actuator and stick the VNT. Now, it has all the vacuum, so it was really jamming that **** in there. The zip tie mod puts a wire or steel zip tie around the rod and sets the maximum travel length so that it can't get to the point that it can stick. Just a travel limiter. There's actually a screw there for this, but with 200k of heat cycles, I decided I wasn't wesso g with trying to turn it.
I'm driving it to work this morning. I will try to get pics.



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biggy238 said:
Thank You.

You know, I saw that mentioned. I thought about a DPF kiln and decided I would end up tweaking the runners.


It's funny you mentioned that. I got the VW drivable last night. It's a little bit stupid now in a good way.



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Oh i know its insane how much these get choked down and when you clean that air intake WOW they will scoot . They are fun Cars to drive decent mileage but the electronics are funky and the **** that breaks never does on normal car .
 
Except the first time you work on them and realize you've never needed a triple square socket before.
 
Phooker said:
Except the first time you work on them and realize you've never needed a triple square socket before.
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I started to say I will never need them again but I have to swap cams again.

The car did ok on the way to work but laid down on the way home.

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Pressure test d the intake system and found that the CAaC tube split where I knocked a plastic welded tab off the tube during the previous repair.

Round one was an attempted repair in the car. I cut a groove down the middle of the crack with a soldering iron and then folded the material back into the groove and smoothed it. I pressure tested it to 5psi and then test drove it, but it split again after I leaned in it a little bit. I drove it right back into the shop and pulled the tube out of it. I gouged the **** out of it with the iron, almost like stitch welding, and then refilled and smoothed the groove by dragging the iron back through it like a road grader. Took about an hour to do that and what I think was another smaller crack. I'm letting it cool down right now and trying to convince myself to go back to the 30° shop.
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Back together with the VW and a ten mile test drive. Thing hits 20psi of boost like nothing. Thinking the ASD delete might have been a bad move.

It goes into a over boost diag limp at part throttle load. I guess I get to figure out the fix (more money on fire)

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I made a push to kill off the alternator lamp by fooling the ford ECM today. I found a decent video detailing the smart alternator logic, and set up and Arduino to read GENCON, buffer the duty cycle, and return it on GENMON. I'm in hopes varying the delay will mimic actual load response time and shut the lamp off.

I also picked up the 5.4L oil pressure switch and plan to install it this week to get rid of the oil pressure lamp. I spliced the ford circuit to the Cummins circuit, but that causes the lamp to be on any time there is oil pressure.

Both of these are things I've tolerated but always planned to correct. Even after four years. I'm in hopes that will be enough to get rid of the wrench symbol on the LCD display as well.

That will leave getting the gear position indicator and cruise control sorted.

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