F250/Cummins Swap

I went with energy suspension cab mounts, seem to be good so far but I only got 20k on them. Wtf happened to your coolant bypass?
 
Poly mounts like energy or daystar is gonna ride significantly rougher than what an S&B Mount.
 
thatguy69 said:
I went with energy suspension cab mounts, seem to be good so far but I only got 20k on them. Wtf happened to your coolant bypass?
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I suspect that the tstat is hung open, the parts were bought used and installed.
I hit a whopping 122° this morning on the way into work, even with the majority of the radiator covered in cardboard.
I have thought about just putting an AN plug and cap that the water neck but just haven't done it. I replaced the main tstat at the end of October when I realized something was up.

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NGL, that's a bit more than I intended to pay. The reviews are critical of the (former) price.
Makes me wonder that the $207 Amazon kits are made of in comparison.
7707e8684fe7e50329e26d3c830d4bb0.jpg


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biggy238 said:
NGL, that's a bit more than I intended to pay. The reviews are critical of the (former) price.
Makes me wonder that the $207 Amazon kits are made of in comparison.
7707e8684fe7e50329e26d3c830d4bb0.jpg


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Try No limit Fab, I think they're a little cheaper.
 
:thankyou2:
Phooker said:
Poly mounts like energy or daystar is gonna ride significantly rougher than what an S&B Mount.
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Not gonna like I think mine rides like a caddy, I may be biased but It rides comparably if not better than my buddies 2022 duramax
 
Been dealing with a minor issue that I may have to come up with a work around for.

I bought an aftermarket radiator when I built the cooling pack for the truck. I also picked up the motorcraft trans cooler hoses, one of which is a moulded rubber hose that attaches to the nipple on the radiator. I've pushed that hose off the nipple three times in five years.

The nipple is undersized for the hose. I doubled the Oetiker clamps the last time I put it together, which is a pita because the pliers don't fit well under the plastic casting of the radiator.

It pushed the hose off again last week, about 4 miles after a full throttle launch (showing out for the guys at work) which stranded me. I got a ride home, picked up fluid and another set of clamps, and had it drive able in about 20 minutes.

After driving it again all week, the hose has already slipped from where I set it the other night. It's holding because the clamp has seated against one of the barbs on the nipple, but it doesn't suit me at all.

I may get another hose and scuff the **** out of the nipple and hope the new surfaces are enough. I'm more concerned that it's going to let go a long way from home. I will snap a pic when I get back home.

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thatguy69 said:
:thankyou2:



Not gonna like I think mine rides like a caddy, I may be biased but It rides comparably if not better than my buddies 2022 duramax
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My '01 F350 with an 8" leaf spring lift rides better than my stock '18 Chevy 2500.

GMs ride like **** IMO.
 
RascalMafia said:
My '01 F350 with an 8" leaf spring lift rides better than my stock '18 Chevy 2500.

GMs ride like **** IMO.
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glad im not the only one that thought that. chevy guys always jackoff to the IFS but ive never thought much of it ride wise
 
Got a gun one to sort out. My engine cranking speed has been decaying over the last month. Last night, it wouldn't crank. I ended up tapping on the contactor cover after checking some things and charging the batteries. It fired up, so I drove it to work to put on lifts and swap the starter. I throw a starter on, it cranks at full speed. I drive it home and it won't crank. Both last night and the night before, I could short the trigger wire to VBAT and I would get no mechanical response from that starter. It's carrying current because the arc was burning the battery post. I found a spot I thought that rubbed a bracket on the positive cable so I pulled it completely out of the truck to I spect the trigger wire. It's the OE ram cable from an 06 model. It braid was worn through but the wires are fine.

The driver side battery has cables tied directly to the starter. The passenger side battery grounds to the engine block at the engine mount. The vehicle connections are to the passenger battery. At this point I'm suspicious the driver side battery is going open after charging. I don't see another way to have the exact same symptom on two starters. The contacts were worn but uniformly and were full of carbon. I suspect that was part of the slow cranking speed.
I'm going to try and get home to TS in daylight. Fishing for ideas. This thing has oversized cabling throughout the battery circuit. I don't see it being a voltage drop issue but you never know.

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I really should only post from a PC. This thumb to phone screen thing doesn't work so well.

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I'd swap the batteries from one side to the other before buying new. that would answer the battery question for you anyway.
 
Snedge said:
I'd swap the batteries from one side to the other before buying new. that would answer the battery question for you anyway.
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I text one of my coworkers the same thing last night as I lay in bed stewing about it. I hand already pulled the cable out of it so I couldn't test the theory.
It's funny, all the blown up broken **** I work on at work, for some reason I take it personally when my truck isn't right.

These batteries should be prorated near new. I just got them in October I think.

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I just put a napa gold starter on my truck,acted good for a couple months and then started acting funky. tore it apart and it had two bearings locked up tighter than a drum.
 
Got a gun one to sort out. My engine cranking speed has been decaying over the last month. Last night, it wouldn't crank. I ended up tapping on the contactor cover after checking some things and charging the batteries. It fired up, so I drove it to work to put on lifts and swap the starter. I throw a starter on, it cranks at full speed. I drive it home and it won't crank. Both last night and the night before, I could short the trigger wire to VBAT and I would get no mechanical response from that starter. It's carrying current because the arc was burning the battery post. I found a spot I thought that rubbed a bracket on the positive cable so I pulled it completely out of the truck to I spect the trigger wire. It's the OE ram cable from an 06 model. It braid was worn through but the wires are fine.

The driver side battery has cables tied directly to the starter. The passenger side battery grounds to the engine block at the engine mount. The vehicle connections are to the passenger battery. At this point I'm suspicious the driver side battery is going open after charging. I don't see another way to have the exact same symptom on two starters. The contacts were worn but uniformly and were full of carbon. I suspect that was part of the slow cranking speed.
I'm going to try and get home to TS in daylight. Fishing for ideas. This thing has oversized cabling throughout the battery circuit. I don't see it being a voltage drop issue but you never know.
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Man if you can, I fully recommend a Power Master starter. I own 2, one on a v10 F250 and one on my engine swapped f350. Both have been amazingly reliable and powerful.
Powermaster 9053 Powermaster Ultra Duty Diesel Starters | Summit Racing
 
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I would go a different route but I got this starter warrantied out..... And it looks like it's a short time. I put the positive cable/trigger wire combo back in the truck, checked the battery, the connections. Hit the trigger wire with 12V, arced with no response from the starter. I got a broom stick and beat the **** out of the cap over the contactor and the POS cranked. Starter crank d over ONE TIME and the contacts **** the bed.

I drove it to see if the battery was doing something stupid after heat soak. Got back the the house. It cranked 25 times total without fail. I don't know what that **** was about.
I have made myself upset that they gave me a reman starter to warranty out a new starter, but that's typical in the parts world and free is free. I just don't get how the new starter did the same thing as the one I took off after cranking once.

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biggy238 said:
I would go a different route but I got this starter warrantied out..... And it looks like it's a short time. I put the positive cable/trigger wire combo back in the truck, checked the battery, the connections. Hit the trigger wire with 12V, arced with no response from the starter. I got a broom stick and beat the **** out of the cap over the contactor and the POS cranked. Starter crank d over ONE TIME and the contacts **** the bed.

I drove it to see if the battery was doing something stupid after heat soak. Got back the the house. It cranked 25 times total without fail. I don't know what that **** was about.
I have made myself upset that they gave me a reman starter to warranty out a new starter, but that's typical in the parts world and free is free. I just don't get how the new starter did the same thing as the one I took off after cranking once.

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I don't understand it either, when I worked at the ford dealer, even brand new from ford there were parts that were bad from the box. Hell, one time advanced auto gave me 4 different alternators for my Vic before getting one that worked in there parking lot. Sadly just the way the world is sometimes.
 
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