F250/Cummins Swap

Got a mostly stable DD tune, 2nd tank is going to go about 16mpg too. I trimmed around on the boost fuel map and barometric pressure map. It seems as though cutting those two down has dropped my idle fuel down to the point it won't idle in drive, it immediately tried to go to 400rpm and sets a status code 16 derate. I'm not sure which one triggers the other. I can switch to tune two and it will idle under load.


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Finally un-fubarred tune 1 so that it would idle under load. Somehow the boost fuel table was capping fuel position and sending the ECM into status code 16. (Anaerobic derate) I will have to spend some time to figure out exactly what about the table caused the issue. I should have caught it more quickly because that table was one of the only major changes I had made.

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Finally got around to pressure testing the intake. Found a pin hole in the driver side CAC tube. Also profound the intake horn gasket and bolts leaking. Retorqued and got that one calmed down but will need sealer put on the bolt threads.

I have to take the entire cooler pack out to get the CAC tube out to weld.

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Sneeeeeeeedgee Look what Iiii found.

Turns out HP tuners has a bunch of stuff exposed that EFILive does not. Working on killing some limiters, thinking about toying with the fan vs IAT, but I don't quite understand it yet.
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Anyone got experience with the tstat used in the fleece coolant bypass? I swapped my main tstat a few minutes ago and let it idle. Didn't make it past 118° idling. I didn't see much wrong with the original and definitely wasn't stuck open. I still need to test drive to see how it acts. I guess I could cap the return hose from the bypass and drive it and see if I come up to temp. I'm not certain that I won't have to lift the cab to R&I the bypass.

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Here's that cranking fuel table that I knew had to be there but isn't exposed in EFI.
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Hhmmm
Need another tank to see where I am on this. I don't have an explanation for the variance yet other than heavy throttle and colder IAT
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Modified the Lambda table and rescaled the boost scale on my boost fuel limiter table. Punched in some numbers and smoothed and drove to town with zero bullshit and zero smoke for the first time since the S472 went on.
Had a touch more smoke after the ambient temp rose a bit, but should be easy enough to get rid of.
Feels good to nail that after fighting it for a few weeks.

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The lawn mower is finally smoke free on the DD. Ran my usual 13 mile run into town that has everything from a slow roll to 80mph up hill.

The biggest factor in this was rescaling the boost pressure to give me 1:1 psi resolution up until 10psi of boost. The let's me park the fuel position exactly where it needs to be up until about 2300rpm. If I'm spinning that hard, I got something big to cut down. ?

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I typed an entire post and then swiped to add a photo and dumped the entire thing.

Thinking about adding one of these valves and an additional trans cooler, but I've never seen it about 180° and I'm really not certain that the OEM ford coolers are plumbed right. It's been a minute since I looked at how I have the flow path set up. The Ford has a liquid to liquid cooler and an air to liquid cooler, and I'm not sure which one is supposed to be last in the flow path. Anyone know the answer before I go down a rabbit hole of getting my FSM working again?
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Edit: my hyper fixation drove me to Google, looks like every diagram image has the hot side plumbed to the L2L cooler and then into the L2A cooler and back to the trans from there. I'll confirm the path on mine at work tomorrow and see if it needs another cooler or not.


One a side tangent, The ford AC system causes tremendous under hood heat soak during the summer. Like the engine inlet temp will climb to 115 degrees just by running the AC (cools the shit out of the cab though)
Since the ford is a gasser originally, it has no fan output tied to the AC pressure, it had a viscous clutch. That leaves me two options: add a wire from the ford pressure switch to the AC input on the CM849, or add an auxiliary fan to cool the condenser. I like that idea more only because the engine fan pulls a lot of horsepower. I feel like an electric fan for the condenser and maybe trans cooler might be the way to go.
 
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I really wanna get the factory Ford clutch working on mine, I'm gonna try and tackle that this year. There's a few options you can play with in hp tuners for when it comes on.
 
thatguy69 said:
I really wanna get the factory Ford clutch working on mine, I'm gonna try and tackle that this year. There's a few options you can play with in hp tuners for when it comes on.
Click to expand...
HP has fan controls for the 849 as well but I don't comprehend how they work because of the temperatures listed.

What would keep you from using the ford PCM from running the Chrysler fan hub?

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biggy238 said:
HP has fan controls for the 849 as well but I don't comprehend how they work because of the temperatures listed.

What would keep you from using the ford PCM from running the Chrysler fan hub?

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Click to expand...

My fan/pulley/snout is all differant since I'm using an 01. I'm running an adapter using the older Cummins viscous clutch with the 6.4 fan. I need to look into the Chrysler fan hub for the cr and see if it'll work on my peasant 2001 motor
 
Would anyone happen to know what thermostat is used in the fleece coolant bypass?

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So I'm gearing up to have to pull the cab to get to this bypass adapter.

What's the word on the best cab mounts available? I was looking at S&B a while back. The doans I installed in 2018 are already junk.
They have settled and pop every time I take a significant turn.

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biggy238 said:
So I'm gearing up to have to pull the cab to get to this bypass adapter.

What's the word on the best cab mounts available? I was looking at S&B a while back. The doans I installed in 2018 are already junk.
They have settled and pop every time I take a significant turn.

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Click to expand...
S&B without a doubt.
 
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