F250/Cummins Swap

I rolled back a couple of file revisions and instead of dropping the main fuel quantity, I remapped the boost fuel limiter. I only had that file in for about 70 miles of that tank.
I think it's odd the tank showed empty at 32 gallons, which is a little shy.
Still not bad considering the tinkering and heavy foot for this tank.
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So I have a weird issue. I have my CSP5 mounted low in the dashboard, and I bumped it with my knee and knocked the switch out of the ford bezel it was glued into. The truck immediately went I to a dead pedal, and I figured out that the switch was between positions. I fixed the CSP5 mounting bezel and drive to work with it installed this morning.
Tonight, I left an intersection close to my work, I was going to grab my watch that I had left earlier in the day, and when I turned into the driveway, the truck lost all forward momentum and would only rev to 560rpm under load.
I freaked out for a minute thinking I had welded clutches together in the transmission.
Then it dawned on my that the switch position was the issue. I switched it to tune 3 from 5 and I suddenly had correct idle and throttle input again. I ended up checking them all, 1-3 were fine, but tune 4 and 5 send the engine into some sort of limp condition where it idles below 600rpm and won't pull. I don't get it because the first 3 tune positions work great, it's only the upper two. I guess I could switch tunes using the V2 and see what it will do.

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Well..... It's not the CSP5 switch that caused the issue. I drove to work and when I got in them parking lot, I hooked up the V2 and switched tunes. Same issue as with the switch.

I'm hoping this is just a corrupted flash, but the fact that I was driving it and it did this abruptly makes me think the ram is taking a shit on this ECM.

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Flashed same file. Tune 4 and 5 were active until I went to pull out on the four lane. When I let off the throttle, idle fell to 500rpm. 4 and 5 inop. One of the guys at work had an early 03 with apps that would not function on the performance tune because the apps was failing, but no other tunes were affected.
Knowing this, I switched to tune 3 to get up to cruising speed and switched back to tune 4 and 5, both completely functional in the cruising rpm range.
I guess I will log it tomorrow to see exactly where the mapping is going. Also thinking about flashing a different file to rule out a corruption.
I've had a weird issue with the TF card causing the V2 to only partially boot. I swapped back to the original card, but it was having IO issues when I tried to transfer my backup files.

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No codes for the throttle btw.

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Almost to the upper peninsula. Dragging a camper packed full and bed full, running as close to 80mph as I can get away with.
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Judging by the dent in my bumper from a doe, I'm guessing a bear.

Mackinac Bridge.
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Driving over that bridge and looking down through the grating always gave me the jeebers
 
Thats killer mileage with an s472 I would guess.

My camper is like pulling a parachute. 12mpg is a good fill up, most are under 11.
 
I don't know what it was doing, but I got 10.82 running around my home town with AC on. Worst I've ever seen out of it. That was only 1/4 and was the top off before this trip.

I will keep working on the tune, but I don't have time this summer. I'm going to switch tunes for the drive home and see what it gets to see which is more beneficial.

If I didn't have a power goal in mind, the 472 is larger than what I want for an all around driver, but that's with me tuning. I'm sure I could buy something that would make it sing. I'm guessing a 467 or 468 would be the sweet spot for towing, driving, street foolery.

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https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwWetnat0Di/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Some dumb shit for your view pleasure. I can upload to YouTube for you old men.

I'm having trouble with my anteater not shifting in to manual mode when I want it to. I'm suspicious that having the remote in the vent during the summer is causing condensation while the AC is one and corroding the connections to the tap shift buttons.
Could be a couple of other things.

I also seem to have a boost leak I'm going to have to chase down.
I'm thinking about getting a downpipe flange and capping it so I can test all of it, because I'm thinking part of it is the gasket on the intake shelf or the baffle plate.

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thatguy69 said:
Do you still have the og pro or does yours use a tombstone for the buttons?
Click to expand...
I don't understand. It's a V1.7 board hooked to an 11-13 tap shift lever.
What are you calling a tombstone?

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I'll get this wrong but you'll get the just of it. The original pro you could wire your switches straight to the board with 3 wires, up, down, and ground. Only the very beggining boards were like that and they updated the boards so you now have to use a thing they call a tombstone inbetween the switches and the board. What it is and how it interfaces idk, haven't hooked mine up yet.
 
thatguy69 said:
I'll get this wrong but you'll get the just of it. The original pro you could wire your switches straight to the board with 3 wires, up, down, and ground. Only the very beggining boards were like that and they updated the boards so you now have to use a thing they call a tombstone inbetween the switches and the board. What it is and how it interfaces idk, haven't hooked mine up yet.
Click to expand...
I'll ask them about the tombstone. Mine are direct wire but prototype/beta parts.

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Anyone done the end-to-end boost leak check like what I'm describing ?

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biggy238 said:
I'll ask them about the tombstone. Mine are direct wire but prototype/beta parts.

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Click to expand...
The tombstone isn't an intelligent device. It just simplifies the wiring to the remote.

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