few ?'s on 4k gsk and kickdown cable

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Blown 5.9

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Dec 8, 2010
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hey guys i just installed my 4k gsk from pdp , got everything buttoned up and fired it up i notice my idle is around 200rpm higher which i assume is good ? ok now for the test drive i noice my throttle is a good bit touchey,

before i did the 4k gsk i could rev to 3000rpm and it sounded like it had a mini 2 step installed now i dont get that sound till 3500rpm its like '' wuumm bummm bummmm buumm " lol.. which is making me think that its defuling at 3500 ?
So do you guys think i should tighting the springs another 2 full turns ?

next thing i noticed now is the truck doesnt seem to pull any harder after 2500 rpm like i assumed it would... the fuel plate and airintake and everthing else is stock other that a straight pipe . so am i just running out of fuel in the upper rpm ? beacuse in newtrul it revs up faster but when its in gear it doesnt seam to pull any harder

and when in drive when i floor it the trans will not kick down now ?

and help is apreciated thanks guys
 
How many clicks did you originally go? Your idle will need to be readjusted. Put a different plate in and modify the afc. Your stock timing is hurting as well so have that bumped up to 16* or so. Shim the ofv on the pump. That'll have it running good.
 
ahh thanks BgBlDodge i forgot about the timming it prob has slipped over the years aswell, well heres the confussion i didnt feel it click so i went by full turns if you look at the stud the adjustment nut has the springs compressed enough that 2 threads show on the stud. my guess ure going to tell me that i have it a bit tight ? when i tool the stock springs out the stud was flush with the adjustment nut.
 
Go though the side, use your thumb nail to turn the retainer, you'll feel it click as you go. Each click is a quarter of a turn. The last set of 4k's I did, I think it was 2 soft clicks and 4 hard clicks. Didn't have to adjust the idle, and pulled to 4k.
 
Tate said:
Go though the side, use your thumb nail to turn the retainer, you'll feel it click as you go. Each click is a quarter of a turn. The last set of 4k's I did, I think it was 2 soft clicks and 4 hard clicks. Didn't have to adjust the idle, and pulled to 4k.
Click to expand...

ok thanks ill have to wait till next weeked my nail should be long enough lol , i also noticed the truck takes a second longer to crank up unless i press the acclerator. also was ure truck stock like mine and pulled hard to 4k or did u have other fuel and timming mods ?
 
Sounds like you have the governor springs plenty tight if it raised the idle 200 rpm. If you loosened the adjustment a little, it would drop the idle about 50-75 rpm per click(1/4 turn) and make the throttle less touchy. If you want maximum fueling and maximum rpm, you need to go tighter.

If you want the truck to pull hard above 2800 rpm, you need to:
1. Advance the timing to at least 18* but probably 20-25* is more ideal for higher rpm power.
2. Modify the overflow valve, clean the pre-screener bowl, and install a new fuel filter. You'll want 40-45 psi at idle and no less than 30 psi 2800+ RPM.
3. Modify the AFC to gain maximum rack travel (increases fuel injection pulse duration)
 
yea i dont mind the touchey throttle or the raised idle i just wanted to make sure that having the the springs tighter like that isnt taking away topend power .

also will installing these 4k springs affect my kickdown cable because it will not kick down ive been manuelly shifting it
 
Adjust your TV cable.

18* is a little high for a stock headgasket and 20-25* is definitely to high. 16* will work just fine for 3200+.
 
Blown 5.9 said:
ok thanks ill have to wait till next weeked my nail should be long enough lol , i also noticed the truck takes a second longer to crank up unless i press the acclerator. also was ure truck stock like mine and pulled hard to 4k or did u have other fuel and timming mods ?
Click to expand...

The truck was a stock '97 5 spd 3500. The barrels were racked all the way by the last owner, other than that, bumped the timing to 19-20 and the GSK. Still on stock injectors and turbo at that time. The truck is Dvst8r's.
 
ok thanks guys ill def check into that tv cable , i just took the truck out on the highway and wow something is def wrong the truck stock pulled way harder then it does now so i think i have a boost leak somewere.
when im crusing and i roll into the throttle i hear a whoosshing noise i havent heard before and when i turn the truck off you can hear the noise it just starts to fade after a couple seconds , this might explain why the truck revs quick with no load then when load is on the motor it takes long to rev ..
 
Sounds like a boost leak with the no power. Does it smoke a lot? What kind of plate are you running?

When I put the 4k in my truck, I was running a #6 and the governor springs changed the relation of my governor arm to the plate. This caused me to have less rack travel and the truck revved good, but the power was down. You can either adjust the arm or go to a #0, or #100 plate and that will usually take care of it.

As for the stutter at 3500rpm, you are running out of fuel. Mine did that and i couldnt figure it out forever until I put a carter pusher pump on the rail. I still have my stock lift pump on the truck, but the carter pushes through it and my truck revs much smoother and doesent cut out like it did before.

Eric
 
Cummins Driver said:
Sounds like a boost leak with the no power. Does it smoke a lot? What kind of plate are you running?

When I put the 4k in my truck, I was running a #6 and the governor springs changed the relation of my governor arm to the plate. This caused me to have less rack travel and the truck revved good, but the power was down. You can either adjust the arm or go to a #0, or #100 plate and that will usually take care of it.

As for the stutter at 3500rpm, you are running out of fuel. Mine did that and i couldnt figure it out forever until I put a carter pusher pump on the rail. I still have my stock lift pump on the truck, but the carter pushes through it and my truck revs much smoother and doesent cut out like it did before.

Eric
Click to expand...

no noticable smoke. but exhaust is cut under the bed. my exhuast is on order at PDP .
IM still running the stock plate and didnt want to mess with the plate yet with the stock trans because the trans needs to last until may because after that ill be in afganistan and when i get back im gettin a full built trans . if anything i will grid it down to a 10 plate to keep the lowend fueling down and just take it easy , do you have a link to a write up on how to adust the arm ? thanks alot !
 
i just got my new intake gaskets and my exhuast came today all i need to get tomar is my intercooler boot this should keep me busy this weekend. also how do you move the plate full forward ? i did some research on tdg and i couldnt really understand it ? thanks
 
Just take the AFC cover off the pump with 4 bolts, and you'll see 2 bolts holding the plate tight. The holes in the plate are slotted so you can adjust the plate, so then just slide it full forward(more power), or backwards(less power) to get it where you want it.

Eric
 
Blown 5.9 said:
ok thanks guys ill def check into that tv cable , i just took the truck out on the highway and wow something is def wrong the truck stock pulled way harder then it does now so i think i have a boost leak somewere.
when im crusing and i roll into the throttle i hear a whoosshing noise i havent heard before and when i turn the truck off you can hear the noise it just starts to fade after a couple seconds , this might explain why the truck revs quick with no load then when load is on the motor it takes long to rev ..
Click to expand...
did you ever address if you had a boost leak or not? my 12v does that exact same thing... slow to rev when driving yet revs really quick at idle... and i notice the same "whoosing" sound that fades away when i turn the motor off... What was it that was wrong? Cause i think the same thing is wrong with my truck...
 
Penni said:
did you ever address if you had a boost leak or not? my 12v does that exact same thing... slow to rev when driving yet revs really quick at idle... and i notice the same "whoosing" sound that fades away when i turn the motor off... What was it that was wrong? Cause i think the same thing is wrong with my truck...
Click to expand...

sorry on the late respone but yes my intake gasket under the grid heater was ripped and pushed out lol i got 2 new gaskets and ground my plate to a #100 and set it full forward and the diffrence it made was incredible
 
BgBlDodge said:
Adjust your TV cable.

18* is a little high for a stock headgasket and 20-25* is definitely to high. 16* will work just fine for 3200+.
Click to expand...

well that explains why a lot of people are running 20* and up on stock head gaskets. :poke:
 
for the rpm ill be turning ill try 17 i think that will work fine but i gotta get the timming kit first .
 
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