finished my header finally!!

F

fjbiker86

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
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but.... its not installed yet. :bang I Plan to install it this week if it stops raining. First off, this is not for sale so dont even ask on here please. Last summer I started this thing but I got distracted away from it. I had a thread but it appears to be locked so im posting a new one. I knew it was going to be a lot of work before I started but once I got started is was a lot more work then anticipated!!!!
1 1/2 bottles of argon later here it is, not the prettiest but I just wanted to get it done.

These will be in slight order from where I picked up
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wow......(where is the dropped jaw smiley)
 
I'll bet that took 100 hrs of your time. Was it fun to build?


Looks like it turned out pretty nice! Now get it installed! Be sure to do a bunch of stock manifold runs/tests before you swap it so you can have so good data to compare before and after.
 
props to ya!!! great work been thinking about fabin one up for myself. what type of tubing,size,and where did you get the bends and all that? did you just have someone plasma out the flanges?
 
good job frank. Now you need the R program to take advantage of it.

-jp
 
sfp, I donno we will see how it works...if it works then I was thinking silver Ceramic Coating
 
nice, i want to build one realllllly bad, i know about the alternating sides of the flange in accordance with the firing order, i have the same question Dave does though, what is it made out of? where did you get the bends? how were those flanges made? sorry if im asking a lot of questions, but i'd really love to try my hand at making one
 
Short, hahahah thanks!

Sfp, I was thinking silver Ceramic if it works

Big blue, Hour wise I did not keep track but it was at least 50. it stopped being fun because it took soo long to build and its stainless so I tried to weld it at lower amps which takes even longer and I still got it hotter then I should have. Yes sir about the tests im also pretty interested in drive pressure.

Will, thank you!

Big, its stainless schd40 and I went with 1 1/4 oppose to 1 1/2". I ordered some parts off Mcmaster but they are pricey. I found a local place thats much cheaper. and with the port flanges I just made them on auto cad and had a shop blaze them out on the plasma. The t3 flange I got on ebay, its m/s and was cheap. I would not get it again or recommend anyone to get it, I drilled out one of the holes and there was hollow spots in the steel.


Jp, what I need is a 12v to go nuts on!!!:rockwoot: But I was just thinking about uploading that program yesterday
 
i wonder if schedule 40 M/S would hold up to the heat?
 
looks great!

I'd run a piece of stainless square rod across the primaries and weld them together in case you have to remove it in the future... if you don't and you have to remove it, the primaries probably won't like up with the head :eek:
 
sfp, I say go for it!!! When I made 98% of those cuts they were on a chop saw. Chop saws leave huge burs on the inside and outside of the tube which after a 100 cuts wastes a lot of time. If you have access to a band saw, use it!! Just know that it will take tons of time and patience.
 
I think I would use a 1 piece flange if I ever thought about doing this again.
M/S will work but stainless has MUCH better properties for header material.
 
stainless likes to expand/contract more with temp cycles :eek:

it's also more brittle

the one piece head flange will help, but my last stainless header I ran cracked at the collector :(
 
yeah, im sure the stainless would be better material, but its expensive and i dont have a TIG machine or even a spool gun for my wire feed unit, i saw one built for a D-max out of schedule 110 M/S, would that work better? im just worried about the heat melting through it or something
 
Forrest, this is true but the positive side is stainless likes to hold heat ( which keeps the velocity of the pulses faster) and does not corrode as fast on the inside like mild steel will do at high temps. From what I have read mild steel will actually start to fall apart from the inside out. As for cracking I will just add gussets or throw it in the trash if I cant stop the cracking.

sfp, you meant schd10 right? schd 10 will be easier to work with. You could get it ceramic coated and that would help it last a little longer if you chose to use m/s. Thats what I was going to do at first but too much literature persuaded me to do stainless. 321 stainless would be the best but that’s big time money. I used 304
 
hmmm...... i didnt know the M/S would corrode like that
 
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