GTI build has started

lol I take so long to finish my stuff, I know people move on to other projects that make progress LOL
 
This is whats left before we can turn the key

make turbo oil lines
install turbo
Drain fuel tank.
Hook up fuel lines
new fuel filter
Set regulator to 10psi
Set timing
Install injectors
Install return lines
wire the steering column
wire starter button
wiring harness issues that are sure to come up.
Could even skip the fuel stuff and pull from a bucket if we get anxious, but I doubt it will come to that.


My idea for stock timing, is to make my own cam holder tool, set cam with #1 lobes up.
Pin the pump, which I assume will put it at stock timing with crank at TDC.
Find TDC at crank, either via the possible marking on the SB flywheel, or screwdriver in #1 injector hole, and spin both ways, marking damper on beginning of downstrokes.
Then throw the belt on.

Will that get me to stock timing? Write ups are scarce on setting it yourself from scratch.
 
I'm thinking of going fuel cell now. What size lines do I really need for a ve pump? I'm guessing no bigger than the inlet on the pump?
 
HightechRedneck said:
3/8 or 1/2. Why not Lol
Click to expand...

I'd have to reduce it down at the pump. Trying to keep it simple LOL


I got the turbo on tonight. Have to find a downpipe flange for it now, and make IC piping, but it'll run without it so not a huge deal. Gonna try set the timing tomorrow, try to get the ignition wired up (impossible to find a wiring diagram, not even in the fsm), and crank it over.

Biggest set back right now is the ignition wiring, and figuring out how to "pin" this pump for stock timing at TDC. I know I can power the pump and jump the starter to get it running, but without timing I can't even do that LOL
 
You should be able to run 3/8" no problem into the pump. THe outlet leave stock, it has a restrictor or check valve or something in it, you can change out the banjo but leave the post.
 
JFettig said:
You should be able to run 3/8" no problem into the pump. THe outlet leave stock, it has a restrictor or check valve or something in it, you can change out the banjo but leave the post.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks.

I figured out the pump thing too, way too simple, I was letting the germans get into my head and I was afraid it was too complicated. I think timing on this motor will be easier than a 12 valve. Especially if southbend properly marks the flywheels for TDC.
 
Your motor is out and apart, before you put the head on, install the flywheel and put a dial indicator in #1, with your trans on the block, mark the flywheel.
 
Timing is set. Ridiculous how easy it is with common tools. Finishing wiring now and adding fluids
 
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Got power to the car, fuel cell and filter enroute. Haven't cranked it yet, but vcds only pulled 4 codes: egr, glow plugs, water temp, and something else. I'm not worried about any of them unless they can cause a no start.
 
Also, where is the sensor that detects the immobilizer chip in the key? The stupid key icon is flashing in the cluster, and I'm afraid its because the igntion switch is no longer in the car.
 
So ECU problem has been sorted. The rest of the turbo stuff will be here by friday. Fuel cell will be here today and the filter got here yesterday. I just need to grab some fittings and 3/8 hose. Hoping I can clamp it down tight as the inlet/return on the pump are actually 5/16.
 
I have a de-immo'd ecu on the way now, and fuel system is ready for install. Hopefully be cranking it monday night. Then just gotta hunt down the random wiring harness stuff that I know will pop up.

Will no water temp signal cause a no start?
 
I didn't think I'd need to post up a dyno printout as proof but here it is :rolleyes:

The long awaited 2011 dyno printout.This was in 4th gear and 26" slicks on the rollers.

[ame="http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/dieseldiy/media/377whpdyno_zps99a9376c.jpg.html"]Dyno 2011 Photo by dieseldiy | Photobucket[/ame]
 
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