hard start issues.....

Try just bumping the key for 2 or three seconds. Do that several times. Don't wait on the grid heater or transfer pump. Just turn the key like you're starting a gasser.
We've had a few in the shop with VP/no start issues that would start sometimes just by bumping the key several times in a row.
Does it run fine when it starts?
 
Its runs great when it starts. I tried bumping the key so the lift pump would run for 25 seconds. Then as soon as it quite I tried starting the engine. Still no change.
 
smoken02 said:
Its runs great when it starts. I tried bumping the key so the lift pump would run for 25 seconds. Then as soon as it quite I tried starting the engine. Still no change.
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When I say bump the key I meant to keep bumping it. As soon as you know it is not going to start. Stop and bump it again. Don't wait on the pump.
 
Black98cummins said:
Is there anyway to kill a fas or airdog while cranking other than put it on a flip switch an the way to do that is to use the wires off the harness that plug um where the stock lp pluged into ones po an ones neg right
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I don't know why you'd want to add a switch when the factory wire harness does this for you. I'd add a relay to drive the load but connect the coil wire to the factory harness. Simple and works automatically.
 
Snedge said:
When I say bump the key I meant to keep bumping it. As soon as you know it is not going to start. Stop and bump it again. Don't wait on the pump.
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I tried this. It took 3 or 4 times of cranking and letting off to get it to start.
 
smoken02 said:
I tried this. It took 3 or 4 times of cranking and letting off to get it to start.
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When it started it fired right up, correct ? You didn't have to crank it for more than a few seconds did you?
 
If you can deal with the hot start it will live a while... try this:

Next time you shut it down hot, dump a bottle of cool water over the top of the pump and then try to start it. I kept one alive for several months with that little trick.
 
Check the fitting where the return line on the back of the head taps into the return to the tank.
 
I will check that. I did find my return line at the T-fitting was a little loose. I tightened it some. I thought about trying the parking your truck down hill trick. I guess if I have a leak up front that wont tell me anything anyway.
 
The thing that gets me is it ran fine until I parked it for 6 months. I did swap out my comp 250's to my stock injectors. I only drove it 3 blocks with the stock injectors. DDP says not to run this pump with less than a 150hp injector. I didnt think driving a few blocks would ruin the pump that fast. I switched the injectors because I new the truck was going to sit for a while, and I wanted to sell the 250's.
 
smoken02 said:
The thing that gets me is it ran fine until I parked it for 6 months. I did swap out my comp 250's to my stock injectors. I only drove it 3 blocks with the stock injectors. DDP says not to run this pump with less than a 150hp injector. I didnt think driving a few blocks would ruin the pump that fast. I switched the injectors because I new the truck was going to sit for a while, and I wanted to sell the 250's.
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]


!!!!!!!!!!! WHY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why does the rest of the story always come later.LOL

A can of worms in disguise. Gotta love it. LOL
 
So I ruined the vp in 3 blocks because I had my stock injectorss in it. The engine couldn't have been running more than 10 mins.
 
smoken02 said:
So I ruined the vp in 3 blocks because I had my stock injectorss in it. The engine couldn't have been running more than 10 mins.
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:hehe:I'm not saying that.:Cheer:
I have no idea what happened to your pump. But the pump folks did say don't, and you did.
The point I was attempting to make, is that there was more to the story than your original post contained. I personally find that amusing, because I run into that often in this business. You work on a truck until you are ready to shoot yourself, and then the customer says " Oh... I don't know if this matters or not but right before it died I did this or that or something"
Then a light bulb goes on and it helps to see things more clearly.

Your case would not have been that bad because we have a tool that bypasses the engine ECM and tests the VP44 by itself. If it will not start with the bypass it needs a pump. If it starts we need to look elsewhere
 
The pump can be tested on the truck? That's good to know. I was just trying to figure out how I was gonna send it back to DDP to get tested. I need a truck to drive. Maybe I will just drive to your shop Jeff and let you fix it. Your only about what 8 hours from me. With my luck I would get half way there and need a tow the rest of the way. Well if anybody here will be at Scheids in two weeks. I will be the guy at the Drury Inn parking lot cranking the crap out of my truck to get it to start.
 
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