HELP

Ol Blue said:
Something to check before pulling the injectors again and if you have a late 01 or 02 year pickup.

If your rig is an early 01 with the vacuum operated cruise control, this won't help, but if it's the later 01 with the electronic cruise control, you can determine noise on the APPS circuit. For 01.5, use the cruise control and see if the bucking goes away. If so there is noise on the APPS circuit that can be caused by routing something close to it (aftermarket lift pump circuit, etc.) or a bad ground. The noise in the circuit can show up as a stumble stutter while cruising at a constant speed and as a miss at wide open throttle when using bigger than factory injectors. Though the problem is still there, it's not nearly as noticeable with smaller injectors. With the cruise control on (electronic cruise), the signal is also routed through the PCM on the firewall and though the PCM doesn't control the injector pump, it does have a filter on the signal ground.

Do you have any codes such as no vehicle speed sensor? Another indicatorOk. Let me know when you can, sooner the better. Just talked to DDP, he thinks turbo is my problem. To much fuel for to small of turbo. If the silver bullet don't solve it then he says the vp could be **** of a bad ground assuming the sensor is good at the rear differential.
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I have electronic cruise. It dosent do it on cruise at a set spend but if I hit the accelerate button for cruise it will begin to do tw faster I go. My air dogs wirring is on that side of the engine but not near the apps. I just recently replaced the apps. I did have a code for a vehicle speed sensor on I think it was the left front, the rear was ok.
 
mathews8pt said:
What thickness copper washers are you using?

My buddy has a similar issue with his 02. He is running monster pump mike's 6x13s and with the thin washers it was horrible. With the stock washers its better but still noticable. Havent really dug into the issue on his yet.
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Not 100% sure on that. I'm gonna say they are stock thickness, DDP just gave me new ones
 
Spoke with DDP for about 45 min the other day and the guy was shocked when told him my fuel setup with a stock turbo. He is confident in sayin that I simply don't have a big enough turbo for my fuel amount. Told him that I'm about to be buying and installing a silver bullet 66 and a Hamilton 181/210 cam, he seems to think that will solve my problem. If thats true, it may work? I should have my
New parts within the month so I'll see then. If they don't solve it then I'm assuming I just have POS injectors.
 
wvcumminscrew13 said:
Spoke with DDP for about 45 min the other day and the guy was shocked when told him my fuel setup with a stock turbo. He is confident in sayin that I simply don't have a big enough turbo for my fuel amount. Told him that I'm about to be buying and installing a silver bullet 66 and a Hamilton 181/210 cam, he seems to think that will solve my problem. If thats true, it may work? I should have my
New parts within the month so I'll see then. If they don't solve it then I'm assuming I just have POS injectors.
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I really doubt it. It should run hot and smoky but I don't think it'd flail about like that. I ran 100's and a comp on a stock Turbo and it just ran hot and dirty.

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IMHO, chevota84 is right. You are; however, closer to the problem and internet help is long distance guessing. Trust your gut. My gut is saying it's electronic. Everything else seems to be new or recently checked. With digital systems, more grounds are also "more gooder", the opposite of analog circuits. I don't know when you would want to pull the injectors, but in the mean time, check impedance from everything you can get a multi-meter probe onto to the battery negative terminals. Clean existing contact points and add grounding wire if necessary to get readings down to an ohm or two ideally. The lower the better. Frame to body, body panel to body panel, engine to body panel, engine to ground, ECM case to engine, PCM to firewall; and sensors to battery such as your left front wheel speed sensor, are also good things to check.

The Air Dog circuit would be a likely candidate for generating noise that is not accounted for by Dodge. So would H.I.D. lights (with ballasts) etc. Strictly resistive loads like aftermarket lights (without ballasts) won't generate noise. The APPS circuit runs down from the apps into the large loom near the bottom of the engine and to the ECM; however, it also runs up the driver's side of the engine to the plugs at the top of the firewall to get to the PCM.
 
Have you looked at the inside of the turbo housing right beside the compressor wheel for gouges? Is your boost falling or reading lower than normal when the turbo is making the unusual noise? Have you been able to check for loose clamps? Have you recently had the elbow to the CAC off the turbo so the o-ring might not be sealing?
 
Ol Blue said:
Have you looked at the inside of the turbo housing right beside the compressor wheel for gouges? Is your boost falling or reading lower than normal when the turbo is making the unusual noise? Have you been able to check for loose clamps? Have you recently had the elbow to the CAC off the turbo so the o-ring might not be sealing?
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Yes I have looked at the housing and just bye looking at it it seems the compressor has possibly made contact with the housing. I just had a boost elbow from the intercooler blow off last weekend but that was due to the clamp not on proper-when it was in the body shop recently my truck had to have a new radiator and intercooler installed. Since the boost boot/tube blew off I have checked all clamps and tightened more. Boost dosent fall lower than normal but with how it's acting I can't lay into it real good to really
Get a good listen the turbo cause it's start the buckin an what not BS so I let off. And as far as my injectors go regarding a previous post, Its just a matter of me getting ahold of again a stock set of injectors to run and ship these DDPs off to be tested again by someone other than DDP.
 
55+ degrees outside in the past week on a couple days and on those days the truck ran fine, turned the edge up and hammered down and it was smooth
 
I've moved a couple wires but haven't gotten the chance or time to move them all and insulate them really well. When it starts doin whatever it's usually around 2000rpm and about 18-27lbs of boost in 6th gear. No I'm not usin any coolant, coolant level is ok and has never been a problem even when I had a blown head gasket last summer.
 
wvcumminscrew13 said:
When it starts doin whatever it's usually around 2000rpm and about 18-27lbs of boost in 6th gear. No I'm not usin any coolant, coolant level is ok and has never been a problem even when I had a blown head gasket last summer.
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I have had this for almost 5 years now. Mine is temperature dependent. Intake air temp specifically. I run DDP 100's.
 
I hear ya. I was given a bottle of stanadyne diesel fuel treatment today by my buddy at a local diesel shop, he says if it's a low quality fuel issue I'll know in about 20min after driving it after adding the treatment-gonna do it tomorrow when I fill up and see what happens
 
When my truck had a miss, not the bucking, a year or two back, I'd run power service, 10 oz in each tank. Truck ran fine. When I'd get down to 1/8 tank and stop to put in fuel, by the time it got full, the idle would go to hell and start jumping all over the place. Add power service back, and in about 5 minutes when it all got mixed, it idled perfect again. New IP cured it all.

If you have to add additives to make it run....your IP is chit. $.02
 
My injection pump isn't that old and it did this BS the day I put the new pump on along with before. The fuel treatment didn't really do anything except make it smoke a hair more.
 
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