How low can I go???

depends on the tires that you are running and the tread design if the rubber is harder it will be more likely to spin. heck my stock tires would spin easier on the road with less power than my procomp extreme at's are with another 200 hp
 
Meacham Evins, Buck Spruill, Mike Drever, and the Smith truck all run slicks I think. I figure my truck will be as strong as theirs so I will try them too. Morkable keep me informed on the trac bars I am interested.
 
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Im not saying that there isnt guys running them,, but in my opinion, they are wasting time and money,, better suspension will overcome most of that.. Im in the same ball park as those guys too. I feel that I will be touching 9's this year too.. (we will see I guess, as they allways say famous last words)

Just my thoughts thats all,,, a slick that isnt warmed up is not as sticky as a good street radial, so in that vein I just cant see where a slick on the front of a 4x4 truck will really help alot... and really on the back for that matter too, I have well in excess of 1000 hp and yet my truck dosent do brake stands (and have the tranny live) so to really get a set of tires to warm up is very difficult at best..... unless there is secerets that I havent been privy too Im not sure what else to say

Kevin
 
Nice bar Leonard, a little long for a drag bar, better suited for off road or light sled pulling. A longer bar like that will lift the front end and reduce traction on the front. From what i have been able to figure out with alot of watching and drawing, and question asking is that you dont want it to be any longer than the leafs themselves.. all you really are looking for on a drag truck is to stop axel wrap, not try to adjust weight, like you would on a sled puller
 
I wish M&H made the drag radials over 30" tall I would run them instead. but because they dont i guess i will try the slicks. Supposedly these Nastalga Slicks require no burnout???
 
Nice bar Leonard, a little long for a drag bar, better suited for off road or light sled pulling. A longer bar like that will lift the front end and reduce traction on the front. From what i have been able to figure out with alot of watching and drawing, and question asking is that you dont want it to be any longer than the leafs themselves.. all you really are looking for on a drag truck is to stop axel wrap, not try to adjust weight, like you would on a sled puller


Any pics or links to a setup you think may work best?
 
it was on the truck when i bought it. they are gdp bars. thing is i'm running a reg cab long bed so all my weight is up front. so i want to transfer the some of the weight to the rear.
 
CHW, I will get some pics posted up as soon as my buddy gets a chance to finish them.

Kevin
 
How about running a twin-sticked t-case? You could do a front dig burnout, then a rear. I wish one of these high hp 4x4 trucks would try that!
 
I think a front axle burnout would equate to BROKEN everything. Too much weight and traction...and poor rear brakes.
 
how low can you bring the front down before you have to worry about the front axle hitting the engine?
 
i never noticed this tire. it may work well for street/strip. the picture makes the tire look really wide for 33" tall.
 
Do you guys think slicks on the rear tires with a healthy burnout and a radial on the front with no burnout would be too difficult to "tune in" for exception traction launching?
 
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