I hate thinking of a title for my silly threads!

You're asking too much of analog electrics IMO.
I ran mine to shift 2-3 and lock very shortly thereafter
 
It's digital...on or off. LOL

But yes, I could be asking too much and not thinking much.
 
ae878e59801cab93665d415f41df2864.jpg


Needs this
a4a44b41bde7a252e661f17c18ebcb10.jpg
 
Last edited:
I must ask: why? Everybody has preferences and reasons but the reason I went to a full manual valve body was to avoid this sort of thing LOL Very interesting to see the options for controlling OD and LU nonetheless!
 
I had this engine/transmission combo and crammed it into a '56 Chevy truck...I went to a full manual VB to avoid using a computer. I don't want to drill a bunch of holes in the dash if I don't have to, there is already one I plan to use for the LU button. I also don't want to have to mess with switches while I'm driving (or my wife is driving). Other than that, there really is no reason. LOL
 
SHughes said:
I had this engine/transmission combo and crammed it into a '56 Chevy truck...I went to a full manual VB to avoid using a computer. I don't want to drill a bunch of holes in the dash if I don't have to, there is already one I plan to use for the LU button. I also don't want to have to mess with switches while I'm driving (or my wife is driving). Other than that, there really is no reason. LOL
Click to expand...

Perfect reason LOL I had forgotten about a swap and trying to avoid using a computer. :Cheer:
 
I think of thread titles for you man... Just let me know when you need them.
 
I'm no schematisist so bare with me :D

The proposal I and others made is this
c54359bbf88781afdcbc3edf261c3163.jpg
 
You'll still want to unlock manually, just idling down while coming to a stop can be brutal if you forget LOL

OD will never disengage unless it loses line pressure, or you tell it to by flipping it off or shift down.
 
That's why there are pressure switches? I couldn't remember the SAE schematic symbol and didn't feel like searching
 
Its full manual, so coming to a stop is easy...and why the switch on the shifter...move lever to second or neutral and both de-energize.

The gap between more and enough never changes.
 
SHughes said:
I can't see these while at work. :/
Click to expand...

It's just an Arduino (digital controller that you can program).

I recommend using solid state relays to work as drivers since the Arduino isn't made to run that much current. It might be fine though?
 
I've been running NPN transistors for the current side of the circuit. (green board)
 
biggy238 said:
I've been running NPN transistors for the current side of the circuit. (green board)
Click to expand...

What kind of amperage can they handle? I suppose a transistor is basically the same thing as a solid state relay ;-)
 
You're a perfect candidate to beta my controller. A 2x3x4" box under the hood and a 0.25x0.6x2" wired remote in cab is all you need. Hook up 12v wire and TPS wire then drive.
 
CorneliusRox said:
What kind of amperage can they handle? I suppose a transistor is basically the same thing as a solid state relay ;-)
Click to expand...
I am trying some IRF510s to see how they handle. I have some old war-horse transistors that I was using but I couldn't package cleanly.
The old setup never heated up so I imagine there isn't much current to worry about. I can hit it with an amp clamp and find out.

Funny, I told him the same thing last night Brandon
 
biggy,

your schematic above in post #29, does it utilize a relay to disengage both OD and lock-up at the same time when the brake is applied?
 
biggy238 said:
I am trying some IRF510s to see how they handle. I have some old war-horse transistors that I was using but I couldn't package cleanly.
The old setup never heated up so I imagine there isn't much current to worry about. I can hit it with an amp clamp and find out.

Funny, I told him the same thing last night Brandon
Click to expand...
NXP makes some sweet automotive grade MOSFETs. I use either the BUK7275 or BUK9275. They don't mind the 8us pulse timing and with the proper flyback diode never get warm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top