I hate thinking of a title for my silly threads!

joefarmer said:
You're a perfect candidate to beta my controller. A 2x3x4" box under the hood and a 0.25x0.6x2" wired remote in cab is all you need. Hook up 12v wire and TPS wire then drive.
Click to expand...

I am missing one of those inputs. And the required doll hairs. :/
 
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I believe I have something figured out, using only two relays a momentary push button and a toggle switch. Let me get some actual work done, then I'll try to get a schematic up.

And thank you to Mike, Brandon and Biggy (I hate to admit I have forgotten your name-I'm a terrible person).
 
[ame="http://s441.photobucket.com/user/shughes_album/media/ODLU_zps24c5209d.jpg.html"]ODLU_zps24c5209d.jpg Photo by shughes_album | Photobucket[/ame]

sorry, I'm dum-b
 
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Basic run down:

I forgot to look up the pin out for the transmission connector.

Power to the trans runs through the relay (should have labeled it R1)...Hitting the brake pedal (brake lights) energizes the relay dropping power to the transmission and therefore disengaging both LU and OD.

Ground for LU and OD run through two micro switches on the shifter that are only closed only when the shifter is in DRIVE...

OD toggle switch remains closed most of the time so it will shift to OD shortly after grabbing 3rd gear, or be left off if desired. This switch will be on the column drop to avoid putting holes in the dash, even if it's not terribly convenient. As will an LED indicator for LU.

LU push button feeds "power" (we are trying to get this to a ground eventually) to a latching relay (R2 as it is not labeled)-the press of the button energizes and then holds power it self until power is removed, via tapping the brakes or moving the shift lever. The ground side will go prior to the OD toggle- this will require OD to be activated before LU and also interrupt the ground for the latching relay, turning both OD and LU off at the same time.

Clear as mud? Make any sense or am I way off base? Any harm with feeding power to the trans like that? Do I need to drop voltage down?

I may have screwed up R2.
 
biggy238 said:
I am trying some IRF510s to see how they handle. I have some old war-horse transistors that I was using but I couldn't package cleanly.
The old setup never heated up so I imagine there isn't much current to worry about. I can hit it with an amp clamp and find out.

Funny, I told him the same thing last night Brandon
Click to expand...

Most solenoids in hydraulic systems that run close to these pressures, use 2A drivers. That means that 2A is probably overkill, but that's why I recommended a solid state 2A relay so you could pulse it without fatigue. Maybe even to the point of being able to control what gear you are in (meaning fighting gov pressure vs what's the transducer is reading).
 
Hurley said:
biggy,

your schematic above in post #29, does it utilize a relay to disengage both OD and lock-up at the same time when the brake is applied?
Click to expand...
Possibly. ;)

I think I caught that after the fact but never corrected it. I was counting on it downshifting itself as it slowed. Not sure how harsh it would be.
 
so every time you tap the brakes, it's going to unlock and downshift? seems undesirable.


I love reinventing the wheel, btw. :hehe:
 
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SHughes said:
Basic run down:

I forgot to look up the pin out for the transmission connector.

Power to the trans runs through the relay (should have labeled it R1)...Hitting the brake pedal (brake lights) energizes the relay dropping power to the transmission and therefore disengaging both LU and OD.

Ground for LU and OD run through two micro switches on the shifter that are only closed only when the shifter is in DRIVE...

OD toggle switch remains closed most of the time so it will shift to OD shortly after grabbing 3rd gear, or be left off if desired. This switch will be on the column drop to avoid putting holes in the dash, even if it's not terribly convenient. As will an LED indicator for LU.

LU push button feeds "power" (we are trying to get this to a ground eventually) to a latching relay (R2 as it is not labeled)-the press of the button energizes and then holds power it self until power is removed, via tapping the brakes or moving the shift lever. The ground side will go prior to the OD toggle- this will require OD to be activated before LU and also interrupt the ground for the latching relay, turning both OD and LU off at the same time.

Clear as mud? Make any sense or am I way off base? Any harm with feeding power to the trans like that? Do I need to drop voltage down?

I may have screwed up R2.
Click to expand...
What I read will work. I never have gotten my hands on the latching relays to toy with.
 
Hurley said:
so every time you tap the brakes, it's going to unlock and downshift? seems undesirable
Click to expand...

Agreed, it does...but I have a three mile drive to work and the speed limit is 45 and it's only that high for 1/2 mile. It won't be in either OD very often. Hell DD'ing a full manual is not that desirable either and I can barely reach the shifter, but one must make sacrifices. LMAO

And as far as reinventing the wheel...I just don't want to deal with resetting switches as well as shift and steer and brake and smoke and feel up the wife. I can only multi-task so much!
 
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****, I DD my MVB on my 8-mile commute. I Hit OD and lockup! beat that!
 
SHughes said:
I am missing one of those inputs. And the required doll hairs. :/
Click to expand...
The TPS is an easy retrofit. The box supplies 5v and A-GND if you need it for a 3-wire TPS.

I not in a position to do anything about your dollars. Only you can prevent debt. :)
 
Which is why I'm doing this on an extreme budget right now. With the schematic I drew up, I don't have to buy anything....

Although I am now thinking of moving the brake deactivation switch to only turn off LU.

And having a small business go out of business is my leading cause of debt. :(
 
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Beat ya to it on my edit :tree: :lolly:


edit: you beat me to my "you beat me to it" on your edit LOL alright chits too deep and I am too sober for that.
 
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