Intake manifold design

oldestof11 said:
A single group 31 battery should be enough. My 1st gen would start with a cold block, half throttle, and 2 grid heater cycles in about 2 revolutions in -10°. Keep the RPMs around 1k until you can back off to idle.

I live in an apartment. As long as the battery wasn't 5 years old, it would fire them up.
Click to expand...

How would it fair with 20-22* timing and no grid heater (cut off intake). Maybe I'll use a hit of ether to help it kick over.
 
Why must the cooler go above the engine? Must have missed it.

I see no reason you couldn't do a dual thickness core, but I think the transition piece would consume more space than you're trying to save.
 
A single xs power group 31 will knock your socks off in -20dg weather. Then start your truck.
 
TheBigNasty said:
Why must the cooler go above the engine? Must have missed it.

I see no reason you couldn't do a dual thickness core, but I think the transition piece would consume more space than you're trying to save.
Click to expand...

i think that started on post 67

crackerman said:
A single xs power group 31 will knock your socks off in -20dg weather. Then start your truck.
Click to expand...

ill have what hes having...

94cumminstwins said:
Here is a pic of the old a/w setup on my 24v. I think it's a type 10, maybe? From frozen boost, ill have to double check. It's not rated for as much cfm or power that you are shooting for. Had to remove the hood insulation an cut a few ridges off the inner hood to get it to fit.
Click to expand...

looking at that type 10 frozen boost unit though, it has the same core thickness. do you have any side pictures of that? and how much further forward could you have gone?
 
I'm still missing it. It has to be above the engine because space is limited on the passenger side? There's no room to fit it up front?
 
That's the only pic I could find of that setup. With the inner hood cut out it had room to come maybe as far forward as the front of the valve cover. An I had probably an inch clearance between the valve cover an w/a. But it was all pretty tight.
 
Took me awhile to find the pic. Surprised nobody has suggested this.:lolly:
407d1167137822-superduty-vans-hoodclosedic.jpg
 
It was suggested lol, it needs to withstand the elements. Reason I want to go over the top is MUCH cheaper MUCH easier as far as the piping goes. It's simple and effective basically. Not many people do it so might as well!

Also, I'd like to keep the second battery if possible, as well as AC. I will be running elec. fans behind the radiators and the heat exchanger either where the spare was or in front of the rad with an additional pusher fan.
 
What about running it to the bed like they do for mud/off road trucks? Just go down a size or 2 on piping size to keep the volume down a bit
 
Hurley said:
single G31 battery, in bed, with 2/0 cable. No grid heaters, 25.5deg timing, it works.
Click to expand...

Down to what temperature? My truck didn't like to start at 0*F when it was stock, that's why I'm a bit nervous to run one battery, gridless.
 
I used to run a single Deka group 31 1100 CCA model on the drivers side, compression ratio mid 15's, P-24 timing at 21.5º it would light the fire at -20ºF pretty well, -30ºF and colder was a pain. That's all with the grid heater in place obviously.
 
BramanteCummins said:
Down to what temperature? My truck didn't like to start at 0*F when it was stock, that's why I'm a bit nervous to run one battery, gridless.
Click to expand...

in the teens :hehe:

turning over the engine is one thing, keeping it firing is another:poke::bang
 
BramanteCummins said:
This is a section of the manifold, half inch thickness, 3x4.75 bolt holes. The holes are the fixture points and there's 100psi on the sealing surface. The darker red indicates .0217mm of deflection. This isn't even boxed in yet either. I'm really not concerned. The bolts are able to hold 4700lbs of clamping force as well.

puza9uqy.jpg

gutamyry.jpg
Click to expand...

Not to be a debby downer, but solidworks is junk for FEA. Try Abaqus or Ansis.
And you can get a rough idea getting Young's mod for your material at temp, but really you have to run both thermal, and pressure fea at the same time which takes some knowledge of the software and a good mesh program like hypermesh.

Also, for your boundaries/fixed spots, I would mark the inner bolt hole bore fixed in x/y, I would mark the head mating surface in x, and then put pressure in all directions on anything on the inside.

Your placement of forces is pretty crucial for FEA. And I would also look at your von mises and design around that more than displacement and it will be a more stout design in the end.


Good luck! I'm glad I dont have to do that stuff anymore!
 
CorneliusRox said:
Not to be a debby downer, but solidworks is junk for FEA. Try Abaqus or Ansis.
And you can get a rough idea getting Young's mod for your material at temp, but really you have to run both thermal, and pressure fea at the same time which takes some knowledge of the software and a good mesh program like hypermesh.

Also, for your boundaries/fixed spots, I would mark the inner bolt hole bore fixed in x/y, I would mark the head mating surface in x, and then put pressure in all directions on anything on the inside.

Your placement of forces is pretty crucial for FEA. And I would also look at your von mises and design around that more than displacement and it will be a more stout design in the end.


Good luck! I'm glad I dont have to do that stuff anymore!
Click to expand...

You're getting recruited for details. Shoot me an email please! B.bramante@aol.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top