meltdown -- common rail style

JOESHTRDDSL said:
Come on guys. You don't think the guys that started hot rodding diesels way back in the day didn't blow $hit up trying to perfect their power. It is all trial and error, may be expensive but it is still trial and error. Look how mant engine Beans has melted down. BBD just about broke his engine in half. The Browns have melted a few, broken cranks in half and you don't see them giving up. JP put your truck back together and run some water and it will be fine. Granted I have not melted or blown anything upYET, but my day is coming and when it does come it will be built bigger and better than before.:ft:
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Joe,

my 04.5 would serve me better as a tow rig and daily driver at this point.
Even if we could make the engine live forever, power falls off sharply after 3200 rpm -- that really limits a manual trans pull truck. I think Marco will come up with a solution for this limitation eventually.

I'd rather build up my 1st gen -- It's light, not subject to emissions testing, and when it breaks I can throw it in a corner and not worry about it. It's the way I should have went in the 1st place. It's also an auto, so I can drag race it too.
 
thats why I chose a auto over a manual with the truck.. I know I can leave in the 3.73's and still compete in the 2.6 class... even if I have to run od eventually with 35's.
 
I'm still new but have broke my fair share of parts including a recent head. I am going to go with some tow twins and look for a play truck or tractor.
 
JOESHTRDDSL said:
Come on guys. You don't think the guys that started hot rodding diesels way back in the day didn't blow $hit up trying to perfect their power. It is all trial and error, may be expensive but it is still trial and error. Look how mant engine Beans has melted down. BBD just about broke his engine in half. The Browns have melted a few, broken cranks in half and you don't see them giving up. JP put your truck back together and run some water and it will be fine. Granted I have not melted or blown anything upYET, but my day is coming and when it does come it will be built bigger and better than before.:ft:
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True but these guys own there own shop and have endless diesel resources and a line of people who would be glad to come over and give a hand!
:blahblah1::blahblah1: Its our own fault, we all should no better. Its just to much fun when they run.
 
jlibert said:
can you tell us more about the specifics of the trucks you melted down. (mods, what you were doing at the time, etc.)

thanks
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My early 04 was a bone stock daily driver with 132K on the clock and always had meticulous maintenance done. Was previously owned by a Shafers oil distributor. Started ticking one day and within the week it started blowing oil out all over the place. Turned out to have a broken ring and melted piston.

My 05 was just the opposite....LOTS of mods and experimenting with nitrous on a stock charger at 72K. This one was my own fault and I had a blast doing it but total on both engines in a month period cost me LOTS to rebuild them at my own shop. The 04 went back stock with an 05 head and I bought an entire running engine for the 05 that I had to rebuild within a month again anyways due to water being in the pan too long by the previous owner. I built it up plenty strong this time but like I said its now a grocery getter and family car for my wife and 4 kids.
 
not being rude, but if the truck was ticking why would you continue to drive it then be mad it blew up?
 
jlibert said:
not a member, can only read the first post.:bang
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yeah sorry, I'm not anymore either. I read it when I was though and could barely understand what it was all about. The guys in the conversation really knew what they were talking about and it got VERY in depth. There's a whole scientific / formulated side of how engines operate they got into.
 
this is a little off the subject but, I was recently talking to Scheids. They were able to obtain 1200hp out of a CR using the Bosch ECM but, they found the rods and several other components couldn't handle that power. They didn't window the block but, bent several rods.

Because of that they sent several sets of Cummins rods to a metallurgist for testing to see which can be shout enough to handle that kind of power. They found a set that can and now use them in their high hp builds. I was glad to hear they were the rods used in my build... not that I'm at that hp level but, at least I know it's not something else to worry about.

I was also told they see many, many melted pistons even on stock trucks. Hell, there's a stock 06 CR at Garmons shop that broke the crank and melted several pistons !

IMO, lack of air, over fueling and too much programming is playing a big part in these problems. I melted a piston myself but, after it was rebuilt... I've yet to have issue. I can run some really high egt's due to my fueling and a single turbo but, the fact the pistons are coated and I try to keep timing to a minimum..... 2.5 yrs later, they still look good.
 
triton said:
this is a little off the subject but, I was recently talking to Scheids. They were able to obtain 1200hp out of a CR using the Bosch ECM but, they found the rods and several other components couldn't handle that power. They didn't window the block but, bent several rods.

Because of that they sent several sets of Cummins rods to a metallurgist for testing to see which can be shout enough to handle that kind of power. They found a set that can and now use them in their high hp builds. I was glad to hear they were the rods used in my build... not that I'm at that hp level but, at least I know it's not something else to worry about.

I was also told they see many, many melted pistons even on stock trucks. Hell, there's a stock 06 CR at Garmons shop that broke the crank and melted several pistons !

IMO, lack of air, over fueling and too much programming is playing a big part in these problems. I melted a piston myself but, after it was rebuilt... I've yet to have issue. I can run some really high egt's due to my fueling and a single turbo but, the fact the pistons are coated and I try to keep timing to a minimum..... 2.5 yrs later, they still look good.
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So what rods were they????? You can't leave us hanging like that.:rules:

Joe
 
sorry doods I wish I could tell you but, they wouldn't tell me either. Only that they know what rods to go with now and that adding shot peen to them makes them stout enough to handle that hp level. I suppose if someone is interested they can call Les at the Lafayette shop and ask about them.

They also said that 1200hp was nothing and more could be gained from the Bosch box but, they need to figure out how to have the motor hold together first. They didn't blow a motor testing but, came very close.
 
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Less timing makes egt's hotter correct? I know smarty has less timing for nitrous. So I'm guessing the regular timing on smarty plus nitrous is no good? Because I'm using nitrous as a cooling agent but I'm making the engine hotter to make it cooler, idk this confuses me. I definately can't afford to have a meltdown.


What settings would yall run on a TNT r with a sps 66 90hp injectors ts mp and a nx kit. I need to keep an eye on my egt at the track Friday. I did t think it would get hot with the nitrous but I was driving around the other day on smarty level 5 with default settings mp8 on 100% with nitrous on and saw 1450* really quick.


Somebody learn me! Lol
 
Has anyone melted a set of pistons that had the ceramic coating on them???
 
I have to agree. You guys wouldn't believe the temps my truck has seen and looking at my pistons, you'd never know it.

Although I've roasted a valve recently likely from heat, that heat was enough to melt a piston too but, didn't.
 
exhaust temperature is just that... exhaust temp...

if you inject the fuel late, it has less time to burn in the cylinder and less time for the piston and cylinder wall to absorb heat.

late timing @ high RPM you'll have a still burning mixture leaving the head.

early timing gives more time for the burn to occur and for the engine to absorb heat... so high timing yields lower EGT's, but can put a lot more heat in the pistons!

SCHOOL BUS said:
Less timing makes egt's hotter correct? I know smarty has less timing for nitrous. So I'm guessing the regular timing on smarty plus nitrous is no good? Because I'm using nitrous as a cooling agent but I'm making the engine hotter to make it cooler, idk this confuses me. I definately can't afford to have a meltdown.


What settings would yall run on a TNT r with a sps 66 90hp injectors ts mp and a nx kit. I need to keep an eye on my egt at the track Friday. I did t think it would get hot with the nitrous but I was driving around the other day on smarty level 5 with default settings mp8 on 100% with nitrous on and saw 1450* really quick.


Somebody learn me! Lol
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So where is this magic formula to set the correct timing? I've recently backed the timing down to #3. a little smokier, but the turbo seems to kick in faster. Less boost gauge flutter as well......

Amount of fuel (some pressure) + amount of air = the amount of timing you should run

dodge + smarty folks have 4 guesses.

With the TST you can add a little timing in 3 degree increments.

Marco/Bob never confirmed where "stock" timing cam into the timing matix. I suppose if Marco said #4 was the lowest on the TNT/R, but never confirmed if that included stock. I'm confused on that based on how I read his posts.

But the reason for this thread, the user was on the "lowest" timing, but lots of RPM. Go figure.
 
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