MiniWheat - 2014 Ram 1500 Cummins Pro Street Build.

set with right, tap with left... stare at the tree while i drool on myself and let off the right... right thumb is the magic one :tree:
 
Krazeeun said:
Yea, going from WOT to sideways is no fun, I want my oh **** button within easy reach!



Ya, theory of operation goes like this...

My trans brake button will power main trans brake circuit as well as activate launch control in the ECM. Launch control takes the engine to a pre set boost or RPM and holds it there regardless of throttle position (on the wood!). Trans brake step in button breaks the circuit going to the transmission itself by a preset amount of time regardless of how long you hold the step button for (adjustable by tenths or hundredths of a second).

So... if i play my cards right on setup of this thing, I should be able to idle into single bulb, grab the trans brake, let the engine overcome its own boost reference fuel limiter and get to a pre determined RPM without making a smoke show, once its ready to party I bump myself into double bulb, hold it to the floor, wait for the tree to drop yellow and let off the trans brake...

If it actually works, I'll be amazed, but I'm going to at least try :Cheer:
Click to expand...

:clap:
 
Krazeeun said:


So I went through the pains of wiring this damn thing to my single coily cord last night, only to figure out that even with the wires separated on the sparco horn button, regardless of which one you press, it still activates both circuits. I get to yank the yellow buttons out now, shove red buttons in there and try to not FFF up the steering wheel too much in the process. FML.

It's SHughes fault too....[/quote]

I have that same wheel with the same buttons and I have one controlling the t-brake and the other controlling the bump box. From Sparco the buttons come wired together just cut the wires where they are soldered together and then you have two separate switch's. There is no sense of cutting the wheel apart unless you want red switch's.
Click to expand...
 
bcdeutsch731 said:
I have that same wheel with the same buttons and I have one controlling the t-brake and the other controlling the bump box. From Sparco the buttons come wired together just cut the wires where they are soldered together and then you have two separate switch's. There is no sense of cutting the wheel apart unless you want red switch's.
Click to expand...

Too late :lolly:
 
Gotcha. I thought maybe you weren't using a lever somehow and killing the power before the chutes were activated. See where I was going?
 
TravisG said:
Gotcha. I thought maybe you weren't using a lever somehow and killing the power before the chutes were activated. See where I was going?
Click to expand...

Ya, I thought about that, actually tested it last night, the system activates the CO2 solenoid before it kills master power. The wiring kit in the truck is from Spaghetti Menders (http://www.racewiring.com) pretty damn cool people!
 
Nice. I knew it was something you would have figured out before launch. Just wanted to check.
 
Krazeeun said:
fd5d2826261c887b92dd1dfd0f1d0ea1.jpg


So I went through the pains of wiring this damn thing to my single coily cord last night, only to figure out that even with the wires separated on the sparco horn button, regardless of which one you press, it still activates both circuits. I get to yank the yellow buttons out now, shove red buttons in there and try to not FFF up the steering wheel too much in the process. FML.

It's SHughes fault too....
Click to expand...


I thought the red buttons were for honking the clown nose ? honk honk !
 
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Ohhh do tell haha.

Nice work on the truck guys looks great. Are you gonna have it at season opener
 
are you going to change out the other yellow button to match the red ones??? Awesome build by the way, I've read through the whole thing. Can I get more pictures of it??? Don't care of what Just love looking at it. lol
 
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