Mis-Matched? No longer.

Dyno is a sticky mess. It will be getting a good cleaning this week. Im going to have to leave one factory freeze plug and do the rest billet. I dont want to pop a plug in the head. I will get a coolant bypass as well
 
ok. Lets wake this thread back up. got about 550miles on the motor. It's running stronger and stronger every day.

SSR tune sits at (running the latest UDC ready software)

LLT 15
LLR 35
LLD 20
HLT 35
HLR 35
HLD 32

Surprisingly, the rail pressure related limp mode condition hasn't shown up yet. normally it has with the rail numbers over 10. Tho, I have yet to make a WOT pull and shift a gear. Just a few roll ons only.

Les is going to fine tune remotely with UDC once we get everything sorted out on that UDC software and dongle side. I've tried dozens of LL numbers and I can't seem to get the haze gone under 20-25psi. It's not "BAD" it's just there. It's tough to see it haze at idle at night with a flashlight! I know these injectors will run cleaner on slight acceleration! I'll have my go pro out the next dry day (snowing this week again....) to show what I'm talking about.

Most importantly, it drives like stock. Tame and well mannered with exception of the haze

80mph or so, 3rd gear locked was instant tire spin. CHECK. In that club now. Clean roads, warm roads (70-85 the last few days)... Looking in the mirror I didn't see soot. It was a clean 90psi of boost.

Coolant issue: I have a wicked/motorsport bypass in place. Zero leaks. Happy with the install/fit/finish.

IIRC, dvst8r, He said something about his motor always puking coolant on a fresh fill. I have the reservoir 1/2 filled. As we all know I popped a freeze plug on the dyno. Well, this 80mph rolling burnout was to 3800rpm as well and the plugs stayed in. What I did see was a very little bit of coolant out the over flow tube. About a teaspoon or two. I've seen it do this after a few 65psi pulls on the highway.

I'm assuming this is normal? Just let it puke till it's done, maybe drain a little bit out and run the level a bit lower? What's the scoop on this?

suspension: I don't recall this ride being this rough at 75+mph. had the wheels balanced to zero. Drive line was balanced last year. I know I have a bushing going bad in one of the driver side's 4 link. Would the bushing cause an over all rough ride?

The rebound on the rear shocks may be a little much. Seems to bounce around a bit if you push on the rear bumper, going to adjust the ranchos. The front compresses and comes up and stops like it should.

Other wise I'm very happy with my pink motor. Chris and company did a great job getting things put together. Timing just didn't work out for them to vet some of the little things, but honestly, I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

Chris, I'm going to send you some of your Iowa'n rocks back with that flywheel for Moody tomorrow. ;-) The crap I pulled outa that trans cross-member tonight! LOL

Few things left to do, oil change + analysis, valve lash, ensure the primary boost is where it needs to be (I have to many gauges, need to re purpose drive pressure for the short term) and I can get things on the rollers with some of Les' hotter tunes and get over that 1000whp mark.
 
Last edited:
Yes, the race truck has a happy spot about 2" down in the radiator, if we fill it more then that, it will puke it out a bit and settle at the same spot every time.
 
dvst8r said:
Yes, the race truck has a happy spot about 2" down in the radiator, if we fill it more then that, it will puke it out a bit and settle at the same spot every time.
Click to expand...

So the OEM coolant system is designed to keep the radiator full. What exactly are you running for the overflow setup to allow the radiator it self to remain 2" low.
 
It was an oem radiator with an oem cap, a couple fins clipped on the water pump, and probably about a 16oz overflow tank off the factory connection.

I can't tell you why it was happy there, it just was so we stopped fighting it.
 
Same....any less than 2" down and it ends up in the catch can. Just run catch can dry and radiator 2"down down and not worry about crap spewed over your pretty pink motor.
 
906whp.

SSR (udc version) at
llt 14
llr 33
lld 15
hlt 33
hlr 33
hld 24

fairly clean run, no loading by the dyno, on the foot break it easily made 40psi in OD with minimal effort.

The first pull i started at 30psi with llt 30 and lld 22. interesting where the change in the graph is at

madahehy.jpg
 
JasonCzerak said:
906whp.

SSR (udc version) at
llt 14
llr 33
lld 15
hlt 33
hlr 33
hld 24

fairly clean run, no loading by the dyno, on the foot break it easily made 40psi in OD with minimal effort.

The first pull i started at 30psi with llt 30 and lld 22. interesting where the change in the graph is at

madahehy.jpg
Click to expand...

Time to buy an afternoon of dyno time and hit the track.

and more LL number guessing :)
 
Pretty slick sir.

Are you going to try and get some more out of it just for the sake of having a four digit number?
 
estrada5.9 said:
Pretty slick sir.

Are you going to try and get some more out of it just for the sake of having a four digit number?
Click to expand...

Yeah. 1000 will be the low side, 1100 would be just peachy.

Then i plan to use the same exact tune and make a 1400mile road trip, just cuz BlockBoy said a 1000whp truck can't be street driven.

;)
 
97rada said:
there any fear in running those with the numbers her wants?
Click to expand...

Everything is a gamble when you search for bigger numbers. You have to balance the cost of balanced polished early rods versus high end rods and make it work within your budget. Jason isnt the typical coal oraler kid with a happy foot. He knows about bringing in the power properly so Im pretty sure it will survive his abuse. Maybe by the time it needs refreshed the rods can be swapped out for something a little more high end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top