Mis-Matched? No longer.

So. Exergy tells me the injectors are 100% perfectly fine. They are with in 1% of everything. Even 1% of the old metrics (including backflow and 180MPa).

So why would everything rattle like crazy after I "shocked" the fuel system, even after replacing the relief valve that was leaking? I did check just one crossover tube after the issue and it was at 40#foot. When I removed them they all felt the same coming apart and they all look find with no gulling. Maybe one of the crossovers was leaking, tough to tell when removing nuts.

I suppose it could be the CP3'(s) just not reacting correctly anymore....

The other thing could be I suppose is the relief valve was leaking "just a little bit" and I tuned around it and make it work, then I tweaked it good, replaced it with a properly working one and it's really just a tuning issue.

But, riddle me this the great minds of CompD. Post "issue", cold starts yeilded a heavy fuel smell and blue-ish-tinted smoke for just a maybe 2 seconds at most. That tells me it's a leaky injector after shutdown OR a leaky injector o-ring, and they all looked fine.

I'm confused. I should have things back in my hands Thursday. Thanks to Harvey and the gang at Exergy for validating my concerns.
 
Ohh I suppose it isn't in this thread.

So, after I sorted out some of the funky electrical issues with the throttle, I managed to mis-align the APPS and the cable (it's a little custom now). Basically I was able to go past full throttle. When the ECU saw this (high voltage at the APPS), it thought it was a great idea to CHOP the throttle for me.

So imagine loading the motor up at 60mph in 1:1 locked to 30psi and hammering down.... then the ECU cuts the motor to idle. The relief valve popped and started to leak enough that I had it replaced and these new "rattles" started to occur and the cold start puff of smoke. The rattles go away under boost but these are new and louder rattles than the quick little one under the charger(s).

So, I'm thinking I tweaked something in the injectors. According to Exergy, everything was with in spec.
 
A little update since I arrived home from the race track back in mid June.

To track down a loud injector rattle due to a sudden throttle cut by the ECU (last post), I sent the injectors off to Exergy the following Monday after I was at the race track. I didn't even run the truck Sunday (raced Saturday). When they came back, they all tested at 100% perfect, zero issue according to Exergy. ODD...

After re-installation, about 30 seconds into the first start a miss developed. After a series of debugging it was tracked down to #1 cylinder. The miss did not follow the injector between #1 and #2.

The weird part after a few days of messing around with it it started to run good and clean... WTF? I've never had an injector swap start with zero miss, develop a miss and then clean up a miss again. With the miss it was a white-ish smoke.

All good right?

So, I decided to take the truck out and put it though some testing. The rattle was there still, performance was good until about 30 minutes into testing. It just started losing power. LOTS of black smoke just to maintain 60mph. Miss was back. Nothing leaking. Idled ok. Power was WAY down. Ended up getting towed back home after I shut it down and restarted and it wanted to run away just a tinny bit.

Oil level after sitting for a few hours was nearly a quart low from where it should be where it sits normally in the garage.

Off to Iowa the truck goes the next day.

Two weeks ago the truck was finally next in line at chris' shop. I'm hoping it's a head gasket. turns out that gasket was installed so well that it didn't wanna come off with out some encouragement!

The end result was All the cylinders had scoring/scuff marks. Bent AND TWISTED #1 rod. Piston is fine no damage. Rings were fine too. Cylinder walls can be cleaned up with a very light hone. I have to talk to the machine shop about how much the rod is twisted and bent. I forgot the numbers I was told.

I have z-gap second rings, 24VP rods (stress relieved and balanced), 20 over pistons that are heat treated. coated rod and main bearing. Bore measures to 4.038. Just about 2000 Miles on the motor in 2 months.

There's very little info about z-gap rings on the net. I should of done more research on them. Apparently I'm not the first one to twist a rod with z-gaps and the scuffing is not uncommon.

The plan is to hone things out. New OEM rings. New rods and button things up.

My guess as to the root cause. Material failure for the rod?

As for the valve contact. It's very light contact I'm told Only #1 intake. The rest of the pistons were fine. I doubt a valve could bend the rod first. I could of set the lash, just a hair to tight (08/18 is where they should of been)

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haloman said:
Gonna do the efi live conversion?
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I dunno. I could easily get this thing into the 10's with the SSR and still be rather derivable on the same tune. In fact I bet there's 50whp in just getting the AD200 in place of the AD150.

When the kits are done and the dash works like stock and the UDC stuff is still slacking behind, it's a considerations for sure.
 
I had nothing but trouble with my AD DF-165 on my truck while we tuned the EFI setup.It would pull down to 3psi and the HP would drop accordingly when the fuel PSI went south.It was removed and sits waiting to have the motor exchanged from their warranty side.

A new AirDog 4G 250GPH was installed and we have had no pressure issues ever since.

When the kits are done and the dash works like stock and the UDC stuff is still slacking behind, it's a considerations for sure.
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Jason...
I am not sure what your meaning by this but I am fairly certain since you talk to Chris so much you already know the dash works as it should with the conversion.Mine is complete and the only two things he has not got squared away is the lacking of cruise and a check engine light due to the running of 2 ECM's. Personally,I could care less about the cruise and a small piece of tape made the light disappear.The conversion is well worth the time and effort IMO.You want a video of the dash working to show you????........Andy
 
Hammer said:
I had nothing but trouble with my AD DF-165 on my truck while we tuned the EFI setup.It would pull down to 3psi and the HP would drop accordingly when the fuel PSI went south.It was removed and sits waiting to have the motor exchanged from their warranty side.

A new AirDog 4G 250GPH was installed and we have had no pressure issues ever since.



Jason...
I am not sure what your meaning by this but I am fairly certain since you talk to Chris so much you already know the dash works as it should with the conversion.Mine is complete and the only two things he has not got squared away is the lacking of cruise and a check engine light due to the running of 2 ECM's. Personally,I could care less about the cruise and a small piece of tape made the light disappear.The conversion is well worth the time and effort IMO.You want a video of the dash working to show you????........Andy
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I haven't been keeping an eye on things closely for a while now. I didn't realize it's come this far. I do enjoy my cruise control tho.

4G pump... argh. I have a 200 AirDogII in a box...
 
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JasonCzerak said:
I haven't been keeping an eye on things closely for a while now. I didn't realize it's come this far. I do enjoy my cruise control tho.
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I could rig a mechanical cruise.... I mean I did figure out how to make your APPS handle a TV cable so the cruise should be no problem.


Errrr speaking of TV cable....I need to get on that other thing too!!!!!!!
 
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CSnyder said:
I could rig a mechanical cruise.... I mean I did figure out how to make your APPS handle a TV cable so the cruise should be no problem.


Errrr speaking of TV cable....I need to get on that other thing too!!!!!!!
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I'd rather see that other thing first to be honest. This year the ECU stays where it's at.
 
For the SMARTY HATERS....you have no business tuning your own truck. It works just fine...

not a concern there Jason...run OEM rings....the loose end of clearance and new rods....you will be fine.
 
For the SMARTY HATERS....you have no business tuning your own truck. It works just fine...
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Where in the world did you ever come up with a BS statement like that from,are you really that much of an idiot?

MADS products run 2 of my other trucks and I have ZERO issues with them or their products and NOTHING was ever stated or implied in this thread about ANYONE hating their products.
 
Wow...call me an idiot. Hammer...aka special custom Smarty Tune...why deal with a check engine light...lack of cruise control...and the cost of two eteams when you can achieve the same tuning with UDC?
 
Wow...call me an idiot. Hammer...aka special custom Smarty Tune...why deal with a check engine light...lack of cruise control...and the cost of two eteams when you can achieve the same tuning with UDC?
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Do you really believe that????.
Again,I am not knocking MADS product at all as I run UDC on my 03 truck but it is NOT as tunable as EFI.You do not have the tuning control with UDC that you have with EFI but,I am certain with you I need not say that.So what are you really trying to say here,anyone who makes the switch to the other brand does not deserve to tune their own truck?.You can think what you want or imply what you need to,I did what I WANTED and while it may not suit you,it is my ride and when you start making the payments for the parts used then you can tell me what to do or imply I have no business tuning my truck then,otherwise I will stick to my comment about you being a idiot.
 
I tried to quote Jason but it isn't working.

Did the truck knock during startup when you suspected the fuel leak down? It looks to me like a hydro-locked piston and a bent rod as a result.

Just guessing

From my Not-So-Smart phone
 
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