My first 12v manifold build

That must be hell trying to fit a TIG torch in there. Looks really tight.
 
I use a gas lense with a big cup which can allow you a lot of tungsten stick out which makes life easier. I built in in two halves basically then welded it all together but it is still tight getting down in between the tubes.


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That's double what I use .065 is the thickest I like to work with.

You back purge your header J?
 
I know .120" is probably a bit overkill with the stainless, my last header got turned into a balloon though from 85psi drive and 2000 degree egts so I wanted to make sure this one was good. And yes I did back purge it.


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jupton said:
I use a gas lense with a big cup which can allow you a lot of tungsten stick out which makes life easier. I built in in two halves basically then welded it all together but it is still tight getting down in between the tubes.


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Thanks. I'll have to look into that.
 
Large gas lense and use a #12 cup. The link is for a wp9/20 water cooled torch. They have air cooled on there aswell and where i get all my stuff. With this setup you can stick the tungston out a few inchs and still have coverage.

Large Gas Lens Collet Body For Series 2 (9/20) Style Torches [CK-2GL- -LD] - $19.80 : Arc-Zone.com, The Welding Accessory Experts

The thing thats a pain about .120 wall is you have twice the weld time as say .109. Atleast ive never been able to single pass any thicker than .109 and still get full penetration.
 
i used a gas lens also but only a #10 cup i don't have a big ole 12 to try.
 
jupton said:
Here's mine
nugesady.jpg
asa8e8e4.jpg



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that manifold is sick good job man. I for sure putting a rush on my flanges now i wanna build another one just to do it might end up selling it but i need to up my game with yal lol.
 
Another thing to remember is argon is heavier than air. So you can also make a dam to trap argon using aluminum foil works good. You dont need a large cup to get good results. All the welding I do at work which is small repair work I use a standard collet body and #7 cause they wont buy anything else. For .125 and down 70amps max is all you need.
 
Good info, I can always use some tips. I just set my machine on max and use the thumb wheel to dial it in where I need it, but I would probably say I'm around ~80ish on this sch40. I have always welded alot hotter than most people though, even with my SA200, I weld much hotter than others can. Not sure if its good or bad but I love being able to control the heat with my thumb wheel on my TIG torch.
 
And I'm the loser that can only MIG lol. I can get stainless wire, but with me not caring about looks and mild steel expanding less with heat, I'll probably stick with mild.

Ghost, mind PMing or texting me how much your local place charges for 1.5" and 3" mild steel sch 40 90 elbows?
 
Chrisd91 said:
And I'm the loser that can only MIG lol. I can get stainless wire, but with me not caring about looks and mild steel expanding less with heat, I'll probably stick with mild.

Ghost, mind PMing or texting me how much your local place charges for 1.5" and 3" mild steel sch 40 90 elbows?
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Collins Supply
118 Stoner Rd
Victoria, TX 77901
361-578-7473

Ask for Phil. I only paid $5 for the stainless so I'm sure the mild are cheaper. He's a cool cat and I'm sure he would take a card number over the phone and ship them out.

Chris, I'm sure you could TIG weld. It's just puddle control as with anything, get some time in with the feeding hand and you'll be golden in short time. I bought a Miller Diversion 165 and it's a great welder, just wish I would have gotten the 180 cause I weld aluminum and some of the thick stuff just heat sinks too fast. In fact, if you wanted to buy an affordable TIG machine, we could strike a deal. I would sell mine and get me a larger machine...hehe.
 
How thick can a machine like that weld? I have dabbled with tig here and there but know little about it
 
97rada said:
How thick can a machine like that weld? I have dabbled with tig here and there but know little about it
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I have welded 1/4" mild, sch 40 stainless, 1/8" aluminum all day, 3/16" aluminum gets challenging, 1/4" aluminum forget about it unless it a really small piece or preheated.
 
When you overheat the welds they turn grey, that's the chromium burning. It takes away the corrosion resistance and strength away from the weld. So the lower you can keep the amperage, and still make full pen etc. the stronger and more corrosion resistance it will have. The gold/purple/blue is what your looking for.
 
Astaindsoul5446 said:
When you overheat the welds they turn grey, that's the chromium burning. It takes away the corrosion resistance and strength away from the weld. So the lower you can keep the amperage, and still make full pen etc. the stronger and more corrosion resistance it will have. The gold/purple/blue is what your looking for.
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10-4. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely change up how I'm welding to make sure I get that color there. Some of them have the color and others are gray. My butt welds are mostly gray, welds to the flange are colored.
 
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