My Twin Build Illustrated...

LAmiller said:
Ah, so nice. Hey don't forget (if you didn't already) to go through the inside of the cold pipe to check for welder wire sticking through. The center weld on that is hard to get to, might have to find someone with little hands.

Lavon
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tyler used his dingle berry hone to get to that weld...we came to the conclusion that there shouldnt be any wire hanging loose since it wasnt really a butt weld
 
true, you should be fine. Unfortunately I know how bad it sucks to go on your first test drive and have a welder wire go through a turbo!

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
true, you should be fine. Unfortunately I know how bad it sucks to go on your first test drive and have a welder wire go through a turbo!

Lavon
Click to expand...

haha yea i have seen the damage! that is the last thing i need right now :bang
 
Just a little update:

With my current fuel I am seeing about 65-68psi, and the spool up is no different than when I ran the 62/65/13ss as a single (addition of feltchers cam compensated for that). BTW I have a 900/400 converter from Goerend, and I am not sure what the stall is, but it's low.

Boost jumps to 65-68psi and usually drops to 60psi in the upper RPM. The overall power of this set-up is awesome. I am just looking for more on the top end, but the 4.10's severely limit that. Currently working on finding some 3.55's.

Contemplating running some version of a 66mm charger on top with the addition of a little more fuel.

To date, the best time I have ran on fuel is a 12.5, and that was with a HUGE leak b/n my two chargers. I finally got that and some fueling issues fixed, and on the very next pass, I snapped the intermediate in the trans right off the line. $2700 later, I don't think I will be having those issues anymore.

Fixing that leak and the wire tap on my VP made the truck completely different. Much quicker spool up and smooth power. I expect it might have gone much better than 12.5.
 
On a 24v they have a factory equipped 2nd oil return at the rear of the engine block. On a 12v you have to cut a hole in the oil pan and weld in a fitting and it has to be in a certain location to ensure it is above the pan's oil level.
 
is it possible just to T it into the other drain? i think diesel power sources kit is this way
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
On a 24v they have a factory equipped 2nd oil return at the rear of the engine block. On a 12v you have to cut a hole in the oil pan and weld in a fitting and it has to be in a certain location to ensure it is above the pan's oil level.
Click to expand...

That's right.

12v: Drill/Tap into oil pan
12vOilBung.jpg


24v: Punches into hole in block
OilBung.jpg


You can do everything a lot cheaper than what you can find on Source's website, but their site makes it pretty damn convenient with desciptions of everything needed.

If you are looking to start somewhere, this will get you pretty far:
1994-2002 Twin Turbo Parts
 
Nice work.
Have plans me to, so i get some question.
Did you bead some pipes, think about i/c piping, to stop the silicone hose to get off? Best way to di it? Buy pipe bead rollers to the bead roller, or some special equipment? When you coat the cold pipe, did the coat cover the inside to? Think about rust, or maybe little surface rust is not a problem?
 
nilsson said:
Nice work.
Have plans me to, so i get some question.
Did you bead some pipes, think about i/c piping, to stop the silicone hose to get off? Best way to di it? Buy pipe bead rollers to the bead roller, or some special equipment? When you coat the cold pipe, did the coat cover the inside to? Think about rust, or maybe little surface rust is not a problem?
Click to expand...

You can buy pipe that is rolled at the end, or you can just lay a small weld around the outside (which is what I did with the cold pipe). BTW that intercooler pipe is the stock one, so it already had the bead on the ends.

I primed and painted everything on the outside and nothing on the inside. Every time I have taken the pipes of, the inside looks great.

When I get some spare time, everything will get powdercoated.
 
I would never worry about the inside of the piping personally, the cylinder head has no coating on it and its cast iron. Everytime I have taken the intake plate off to look in the intake manifold it has been rust free.
 
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