New TURBO what do you think?

Yes i remeber but there was conflicting info between several posters and was HOPING it was a simple mathematical equation that i could do myself .. but it obviously isnt that easy this housing doesnt look as big as my 12 on my truck now so i figured it couldnt be bigger than a 14 thats why im so confused

Where was the conflicting info?

A couple guys posted...Smokem posted....the other guys said I guess we were mistaken.

Do I need to spell this out to you? Looks on the outside don't mean squat!
Chris
 
Scary, very scary. My butt would pucker every time I touched the throttle.

It was that and then some on the first trip down the road. I took it off because the comp wheel was starting to make a zinging noise but I learned what i set out to find out...a 72mm comp wheel does move more air at the same amount of boost than a 67mm comp wheel...according to the butt-meter and the tail pipe.

Cool youre an innovater , i dont have the guts to try something like that.. Just think how many threads I would have asking questions by the time I got that done lol

Oh, that escapade was before I knew anything about comp-d...you got it too easy.
 
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I once took a turbo comp cover machined it out for a 72mm wheel on a manual lathe, then took a drill bit and enlarger the hole through the comp wheel so it would fit the shaft of the turbo I had on my truck...removed the compressor side with the turbo still mounted on the truck and installed the biotched parts and tightened the shaft nut with a 3/8" impact gun and drove the truck for a week (approx 300 miles)...the turbo is still in one piece and now resides on the shelf as a dust collector and reminder of the wonder of not knowing when the thing will blow. LOL

Damn Lee...nice!!

Although if I had a lathe, I would probably try the same stuff!

I've scattered more than 5 turbos in less that 15 miles after install....those were the ones that were too small:D

Chris
 
ok how about slow to spool thats somewhat relative also .
auto- dd and tow my race car in a 28 ft enclosed
 
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It was that and then some on the first trip down the road. I took it off because the comp wheel was starting to make a zinging noise

I am quite familiar with that "zinging" noise you speak of.

Lag is a relative term;)
Chris

That's no lie. I saw Tanner Foust(sp) driving some little turbo car and one of his comments was "the turbo is a little laggy"!
 
ok how about slow to spool thats somewhat relative also .
auto- dd and tow my race car in a 28 ft enclosed

Put the turbo on your truck, hook up a drive pressure gauge, a pyro and a boost gauge if you don't already have them. (there are plenty of threads here covering drive pressure gauges) Then come back with some numbers.
 
I would measure the quill on the shaft, see what you have. I've run a few P-trim 0.70AR T4 divided housings with no gate @ 450hp. That housing in T3 would be quite close to a typical 14cm housing for comparison sake.

Your main concerns should be surging under load, the 61mm wheels I ran were terrible about this, not ideal for towing. And if the quill is 0.250", keep your fingers crossed if you lift under heavy throttle. One accidental jump off the throttle @ 45psi and 3700RPM - bang, rattle, small fire, and pieces everywhere.
 
For comparison I measured a few turbos I had laying around;

HY35 - 0.270"
H1E - 0.275"
S200G - 0.275"
S300 - 0.305"
 
For comparison I measured a few turbos I had laying around;

HY35 - 0.270"
H1E - 0.275"
S200G - 0.275"
S300 - 0.305"
arent an hx35 and hy supposed to be the same if so ive run my hx35 for 40000 miles and not broke it so maybe Id be ok. can I measure this at the edge next to the nut on the comp side or do I need to measure the center
where are you measuring these at
 
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56mm on a 0.270" shaft and 65mm on a 0.250" shaft are not the same thing.
 
very true. I went out to the garage and measure my hy at the nut the threads measure like .250 . On the its turbo it measures 300. My caliper is cheap but it usually gets close, is this where you were measuring and is .300 a good size?
 
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It looks to have the later P-trim turbine, which has a larger quill shaft. Like I said previously, I think surge is going to be your largest issue. A ported shroud cover will help this, but I just don't see it being worth the investment.
 
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what causes the surge, and is there anything to help this situation

Turbo working too hard to try and shove too much air into an engine that will not accept it...


or


rotor speed too high for the engine speed


or

engine load too high and the turbo too big



to stop surge?

get a different turbo, or a bigger exhaust housing, or force feed it with a bigger turbo (sequential twins)
 
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