ok p pump guys, i have questions

DEZLFREK

DEZLFREK

my licence plate says it
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
4,569
so im really disgruntled right now... my pump puts out great fuel but it smokes bad and i dont think it really think its the pump or injectors fault but low end air flow so, my question is if i back off the low fueling screw, out to give it less fuel pre boost will it give me more rpm before fuel is added.. i have a afc all the way back, spring tention is tight but even the way it is it smokes so black i cant even accel with traffic.. not even close to what i want.. also i know the crows foot was cut so im going to throw a stocker in to see if that helps even if it limits my top power.. i am so disgusted its not even funny right now.. hope you guys can help.. thanks
 
I have my pre boost all the out, afc full rear, unaltered afc foot, and a governor spring in the afc right now. Low end smoke is pretty light with Weston's dvs and 7x14s. Backing the pre boost screw out gives you less fuel in zero boost conditions

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What Dv's are in your pump? Sounds like you need to back your screw all the way out if you're getting that much low end fuel. Check to make sure your afc is getting full rear travel when you have it apart as well.
 
I can offer you a 160 Pump Adam lol. It won't smoke as bad then. I say preboost screw all the way out change the foot then what plate do you have in it? Maybe try a 100 profile and then I would mess with the spring till it doesnt go full rack till at least 60 psi. Or stay with your valve off like you have now.

If ya need to talk to anyone give me a hollar I'm just a call away.
 
Try different springs in the anaroid. I like a stretched 215 the best. Housing back. Preboost flush with housing in its lowest setting. Gov arm properly adjusted. Plate is only useful for top end fueling. It's sounding to me like your gov arm is adjusted too low and not catching the afc foot properly. Along with the star wheel adjustment I like to add a t valve in the line to fine tune my reference line.
 
^^^ This it is possible the gov arm is not contacting the AFC foot. Slide the AFC full rear and back the preboost screw all the way out. Diaphragm spring should be a TST stiff or even a 180 pump governor spring. Otherwise you gotta have a leak or timing issue of some sort.....whether it be cam or pump
 
Everyone is correct about backing the preboost out and having the housing slide back. A longer then stock spring is very important because a stock spring is too short to control fueling with the preboost all the way out, and still allow full fuel after boost is up. With a stock afc foot in there and the preboost all the way out you should be able to tune most, if not all of that smoke out.
 
well i gotta say thank you guys very much for the supportive responces... so today i took a look at everything.. lowered the foot and changed to a 180 spring with zero freeplay, i backed the preboost all the way out. acctually all the way and it didnt want to idle in gear so i had to put some back into it.. took it for a drive and i pulled fuel out of the pre boost cercuit, it would only make 10-12 total boost,, but still smokes like crazy..
im sorry to have to admit that i dont think the head has enough port velocity to burn efficiently at lower rpm.. i also order a 62 wheel and cover to go in place of my 66 to try and help get some more low rpm boost.. im also thinking of trading my 491 for a billit 482 for some quicker spooling out of the primary.. in all this pretty much sucks that i have to detune my rig that worked really well with a almost stock head.. i had hope i was making an upgrade i dont feel that way right now....
 
May want to contact member "bsmith" on here. He hooked me up with a nice spring.
 
So what your saying is you would rather have your old stockish head over the hamilton? I'm just trying to find feed back on these stinken things. No one is sharing yet.

Edit on it too - you have to have another head there just put it on then. If not hell I will ship one out. I don't want to see you detuning your truck cause of that issue.
 
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Have you thought about slapping a stock, or smallish cam in to see if that changes anything? I'm really sorry to see you having so many problems. Do you still have an OEM head around to try? What a pain, sorry man!
 
DEZLFREK said:
well i gotta say thank you guys very much for the supportive responces... so today i took a look at everything.. lowered the foot and changed to a 180 spring with zero freeplay, i backed the preboost all the way out. acctually all the way and it didnt want to idle in gear so i had to put some back into it.. took it for a drive and i pulled fuel out of the pre boost cercuit, it would only make 10-12 total boost,, but still smokes like crazy..
im sorry to have to admit that i dont think the head has enough port velocity to burn efficiently at lower rpm.. i also order a 62 wheel and cover to go in place of my 66 to try and help get some more low rpm boost.. im also thinking of trading my 491 for a billit 482 for some quicker spooling out of the primary.. in all this pretty much sucks that i have to detune my rig that worked really well with a almost stock head.. i had hope i was making an upgrade i dont feel that way right now....
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I have noticed mine is quite smokey with light throttle, but I had guessed that was more due to the 5x20's and 75mm single. I have tried full cuts, 191's, and currently some 181's. I have some 7mm comps on the way as well. The biggest difference was the 181's. I'm still playing with everything but the truck is running well so I can't complain to much.
 
I'm inclined to believe its more of a compression/ valve relief issue. Smaller chargers and pump tuning will help, but won't cure it.
 
Plate the fuel all the way down if you haven't already. I'm with Big Nasty, sounds like compression is low with the .20 over head gasket and biiiiiig ol reliefs.
 
I dislike the thought of valve reliefs on a street engine and low pressure injection system. When the piston comes up to tdc the air is forced from the outside and squished into the bowl in the stock configuration, creating in chamber swirl and mixing of the remaining air and burning fuel. When you cut two big holes out of that, you effectively reduce the air movement and you end up with less mixing across the cylinder.
 
TheBigNasty said:
I dislike the thought of valve reliefs on a street engine and low pressure injection system. When the piston comes up to tdc the air is forced from the outside and squished into the bowl in the stock configuration, creating in chamber swirl and mixing of the remaining air and burning fuel. When you cut two big holes out of that, you effectively reduce the air movement and you end up with less mixing across the cylinder.
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With those two extra holes the air moving around might be a little more turbulent? Not sure if that's true or not but it seems like it would be that way.
 
I tuned mine out for 0 boost smoke, and had trouble starting it. So I added a little preboost fuel, and now it starts good but smokes like a pig until about 5psi. All I can think of now is lowering/raising the foot. Think that would help any?
 
madmikeismad said:
I tuned mine out for 0 boost smoke, and had trouble starting it. So I added a little preboost fuel, and now it starts good but smokes like a pig until about 5psi. All I can think of now is lowering/raising the foot. Think that would help any?
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No, you need a stiffer spring.
 
well, i lowered the foot yesterday and it didnt help.. removed all low end fuel and it wouldnt idle so i had to add some back so it would start and idle in gear.. all it did was make less power and boost with smoke..
the valve reliefs are .150 and the bigger bowls from the commercial pistons(even with higher cr, 17.5 stock) dont help with swirl im sure but the head was desined with alot less swirl and with emphasis on flow.. i did everything to make low lift flow better but its not a good street/towing match.. it worked better before with almost the same combo, .100 reliefs, same cam, injectors but almost stock head. now its yet to be seen what its like on top but i didnt build this for the .01% of the time its going to at full throttle and above 3000 rpm.. not what i was building this motor to be.. ultimate every day driver, trailer tower and weekend puller was the goal..
i put 181's in today so ill see how it works tomorrow.. also i have the 62 wheel and cover coming so ill have those to add soon.. im thinking also im going to the 482 just to help things and should easily reach my goals.. it might just have a stocker head on it.
 
If I were you, I'd leave the big turbo alone, it's not going to make any difference in the low rpm range. Going with a 62mm compressor will help, but only if the exhaust housing is tight enough to spin it up and generate boost.

Also, how much timing are you running and what's the pop pressure set to on your injectors?
 
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