over heating tranny stumper for u guys???????????help

On a side note, my hot line has gotten hot enough to melt the yellow plastic trim pieces right off of the end of my brass -8 push lock fitting, yet after my setrab cooler the fittings show so sign of heat stress and it takes 3+ hot laps to see 200+F in my pan

I've since replaced the fittings with the black summit -8 pushlock fittings that don't have the stupid trim piece to melt off... problem solved >:)
 
I used to monitor the temp in the vb and the pan. Temp from the factory vb temp sensor would pop up to 250 plus pretty easily. Pan would be 200, unless I had a hard tome spooling the charger, then I could see 240 in the pan.
 
im honestly kinda baffled at why its acting like this. low stall speed in converter so i know that wouldnt casue it.


fluid is clean no smell no debris. red and clean.


i replaced my fan clutch recently so i know it works. iv deleted my heat exchanger so its just from tranny to cooler and back.

i need some help tranny guru guys.:nail:

Low stall speed will cause higher temps at idle. The tighter the converter, the more it will raise the temp at idle.

The deleted heat exchanger is 90% of the problem. When you're not moving, the front cooler is almost useless. The reason the temp continues to rise is the pan temp rises because the deleted exchanger combined with not moving. Once the pan temp hits 200+, the outlet temp from a low stall converter hits 240+.



On my 98' daily driver, it has a temp probe on the hot line just like your truck. On the highway with the converter locked, temps run 100-130 in the winter time, 135-150 in the summer. When I pull up to a light or pull off the freeway, temp will quickly rise to 180 because the front cooler no longer does anything and the heat exchanger is holding the fluid temp in the pan equal with coolant temp at 180*. After a few minutes, tranny hot-line temp will get up to 190, and after about 10 minutes, it will peak out at 205*. Pan temp eventually gets up to coolant temp of 180-185 and then the converter is raising the temp the extra 20-25* to 205*. If I then put the tranny in neutral, it will drop to about 190* after about a minute, but it won't go below that level because the pan temp is dictated by the heat exchanger temp with is dictated by coolant temp. Dodge put the heat exchanger in there for a reason, and you just found out why.

A possible solution would be to put a second fan-driven cooler under the truck. If you don't want to spend $250, reinstall the factory heat exchanger. In my opinion, temp over 240*F needs to be addressed, otherwise the fluid will not last as long. On a play truck, not a big deal. On reliable transportation, the temp problem needs to be addressed.



One more example: My 95' street-legal race truck has a modified thermostat so coolant temp stays right at 140*F. In traffic at a light, tranny temp in the hot line will never exceed 170*F. Pan temp will never get over about 145* unless I'm hotlapping it at the race track. This tranny runs really high line pressure which adds a lot more heat to the fluid but I'm telling you from experience, the factory heat exchanger is incredibly efficient at removing heat from the tranny fluid.
 
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We remove factory heat exchangers when using external coolers, if using stock coolers.. the factory heat exchanger stays
 
well ran another test today. same setup. in drive p brake set now with temp gauge in cooler and infrared heat sensor on cooler as well. in about 10 min it pegged the trans temp gauge. pegged the temp gauge touching the cooler and the infrared gauge read 270 degrees. even at the bottom of the tranny cooler by the return line it read way high so i know its hot in the pan. My issue is even when i had the heat exchanger on the truck it did this. I saw no change when i took the xchanger off. it basicly has done this since ivowned this rig. i have not done the flow test but im gonna do that next and make sure i have good flow. But if i had bad flow like the pump was not performing well wouldnt inotice it driving?.. I mean the truck drives great all the time
 
Check the cooler check valve you need some snap ring pliers. I add pretty large cooler and deleted my heat exchanger before a friend told that there is a check valve in the cooler and it will plug up
 
Check the cooler check valve you need some snap ring pliers. I add pretty large cooler and deleted my heat exchanger before a friend told that there is a check valve in the cooler and it will plug up

there is no check valve onthe new cooler. its just an inlet and outlet. they offered a external bypass but i did not get it.
 
Low stall speed will cause higher temps at idle. The tighter the converter, the more it will raise the temp at idle.

The deleted heat exchanger is 90% of the problem. When you're not moving, the front cooler is almost useless. The reason the temp continues to rise is the pan temp rises because the deleted exchanger combined with not moving. Once the pan temp hits 200+, the outlet temp from a low stall converter hits 240+.



On my 98' daily driver, it has a temp probe on the hot line just like your truck. On the highway with the converter locked, temps run 100-130 in the winter time, 135-150 in the summer. When I pull up to a light or pull off the freeway, temp will quickly rise to 180 because the front cooler no longer does anything and the heat exchanger is holding the fluid temp in the pan equal with coolant temp at 180*. After a few minutes, tranny hot-line temp will get up to 190, and after about 10 minutes, it will peak out at 205*. Pan temp eventually gets up to coolant temp of 180-185 and then the converter is raising the temp the extra 20-25* to 205*. If I then put the tranny in neutral, it will drop to about 190* after about a minute, but it won't go below that level because the pan temp is dictated by the heat exchanger temp with is dictated by coolant temp. Dodge put the heat exchanger in there for a reason, and you just found out why.

A possible solution would be to put a second fan-driven cooler under the truck. If you don't want to spend $250, reinstall the factory heat exchanger. In my opinion, temp over 240*F needs to be addressed, otherwise the fluid will not last as long. On a play truck, not a big deal. On reliable transportation, the temp problem needs to be addressed.



One more example: My 95' street-legal race truck has a modified thermostat so coolant temp stays right at 140*F. In traffic at a light, tranny temp in the hot line will never exceed 170*F. Pan temp will never get over about 145* unless I'm hotlapping it at the race track. This tranny runs really high line pressure which adds a lot more heat to the fluid but I'm telling you from experience, the factory heat exchanger is incredibly efficient at removing heat from the tranny fluid.

That's exactly how my DTT acted.
 
iv deleted my heat exchanger so its just from tranny to cooler and back.

i need some help tranny guru guys.

I have built well over 300 47/48s so I think I can say this with some expertise.
Put the heat exchanger back on like a few other have mentioned and your problem will go away. I do not know why you removed...was the original one bad? If it was, Cummins will have replacement but they are amount 400 dollars.

Water to oil heat exchangers are very efficient at removing heat, that's why it is there.
 
I have built well over 300 47/48s so I think I can say this with some expertise.
Put the heat exchanger back on like a few other have mentioned and your problem will go away. I do not know why you removed...was the original one bad? If it was, Cummins will have replacement but they are amount 400 dollars.

Water to oil heat exchangers are very efficient at removing heat, that's why it is there.

ill say again this problem existed when the heat exchanger was on there. And with your expertise are u telling me that all second gen dodge owners with a twin turbo kit that had to remove the heat exchanger to install twins had the same issue. I think not. It would do the same thing it does now when the heat exchanger was on the truck. I do agree that water cooler transfer is very effecient but this problem existed in both cases.
 
ill say again this problem existed when the heat exchanger was on there. And with your expertise are u telling me that all second gen dodge owners with a twin turbo kit that had to remove the heat exchanger to install twins had the same issue. I think not. It would do the same thing it does now when the heat exchanger was on the truck. I do agree that water cooler transfer is very effecient but this problem existed in both cases.

Did not know you had twins...did not read ur sig....and yes, if your original cooler was bad it would have caused the same problem. I have replaced them quite a bit.

Funny how everyone here who asks for help thinks that we have their truck in front of us. Typing only goes so far. I have never done a twins kit on a second gen....too busy with 3rd gen twins in which the exchanger is on the drivers side.

BTW...is that the same converter you have used before and after the heating problem began? TC could be bad. Then again, it could be a bad gauge or sender.....who knows. I am out!
 
ill say again this problem existed when the heat exchanger was on there. And with your expertise are u telling me that all second gen dodge owners with a twin turbo kit that had to remove the heat exchanger to install twins had the same issue. I think not. It would do the same thing it does now when the heat exchanger was on the truck. I do agree that water cooler transfer is very effecient but this problem existed in both cases.

I ran my 98' for 7 years with a cooler and with no issues, take it for what it's worth.

Jim
 
Did not know you had twins...did not read ur sig....and yes, if your original cooler was bad it would have caused the same problem. I have replaced them quite a bit.

Funny how everyone here who asks for help thinks that we have their truck in front of us. Typing only goes so far. I have never done a twins kit on a second gen....too busy with 3rd gen twins in which the exchanger is on the drivers side.

BTW...is that the same converter you have used before and after the heating problem began? TC could be bad. Then again, it could be a bad gauge or sender.....who knows. I am out!


Im not saying i have twins but it is fairly common to have to remove the heat exchager to make room for the bottom turbo. I know u cant diagnose my truck by looking at what i type. Im just responding to the comment. u say it is the heat exchanger that kept it cool and im telling you it was on the truck and the problem was still there. it was not clogged when i took it off caouse i gave it to a boddy who actually needed one and he is still using it with no issue. Im just trying to see if anyone can shine some light on things maybe i have over looked possible internal like in the valve body that may cause this issue or something. Secondly i dont think u need to chime in saying u have built 300+ trannies like u are some big shot tranny guy. U came off like an ass. Not very proffesional for sombody with expertise.


Look i understand its near impossible to trouble shoot from where ever anyone is looking at there computer but isnt that what forums are for.......Discussion????? anyways for everybody else who wants to help im gonna do the flow test this weekend and make sure iv good fluid flow and report back.

also im gonna install a temp sensor in my pan and swap the gauge over to that and see what kinda reading i get.
 
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well ran another test today. same setup. in drive p brake set now with temp gauge in cooler and infrared heat sensor on cooler as well. in about 10 min it pegged the trans temp gauge. pegged the temp gauge touching the cooler and the infrared gauge read 270 degrees. even at the bottom of the tranny cooler by the return line it read way high so i know its hot in the pan. My issue is even when i had the heat exchanger on the truck it did this. I saw no change when i took the xchanger off. it basicly has done this since ivowned this rig. i have not done the flow test but im gonna do that next and make sure i have good flow. But if i had bad flow like the pump was not performing well wouldnt inotice it driving?.. I mean the truck drives great all the time

Have you tried a different gauge?


I would say the infrared gun at 270 would indicate that there isn't a gauge issue.
 
Have you tried a different gauge?
we used an infrared heatgun and a temp probe physically in the fins of the cooler and they all read within like 10 to 15 degrees of each other. We wanted to rule out the gauge being an issue before we got to crazy with it
 
Ok. I must have missed that part. Just throwin ideas out.


Yea good idea, hate to drop a trans cause a gauge is bad.

Be like changing fuel pumps because the fuel gauge or tank transfer switch quit working.
 
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