p-pumping a CR motor

blownsmoke2

Trying to make a hook
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
243
Who's done it? Who makes a conversion? What do I need?

I'm tired of building motors so the cp3's and electronics are coming off.
 
so one of the hottest running CR in the country is going to a ppump???
 
I just don't think the realibility is there with the CR. When I tried to run the 2.6 cover I avadently didn't back my fuel down enough. Melted 4 forged pistons and blew oil out of the valvecover on the underneath of the hood hard enough to spray out of the hood all over the fenders. I'm done for the year but will be back next year with a 13mm pump 5,000 rpm's and probably a manual.
 
Woodruff sells a timing cover but its like $2100 Woodruff Diesel, Inc. Cummins Billet Housing and Covers

There are other options on the gearing too. either have a custom Straight Cut gear made for the pump, or convert everything to the helical cut gears like the 12V and VP44 engines. You can also use a 12V cover, but you have to either fill in some of the holes on the cover or the block and redill and tap becaue not all of the bolt holes line up. Also the oil pan will need some modifieing to get it to work, and you will need to either cut the intake off the head and make a custom piece to clear the pump, or just cut a 3x4" window in the intake to clear the Gov. housing and shut down rod on the pump.

PHD diesel makes a complete kit to do the conversion minus the pump and injectors, but you have to take your truck, pump, injectors, and around $5K for THEM to do the conversion for you. I PMed him today about just sending me the parts to do it myself and haven't got anything back yet.

Another option would be to just do a regular p-pump 24V build with a CR head, but you will still need to either make your own custom intake or cut and fill in a window in the intake to clear the Gov. Housing.
 
Would it just be cheaper to buy a 12v or 24v and start from there???


So you and Benn have melted motors?
 
Scheid was hard on us. Ben put a bandaid on his and up and running. Mines alittle past that.
 
Woodruff sells a timing cover but its like $2100 Woodruff Diesel, Inc. Cummins Billet Housing and Covers

There are other options on the gearing too. either have a custom Straight Cut gear made for the pump, or convert everything to the helical cut gears like the 12V and VP44 engines. You can also use a 12V cover, but you have to either fill in some of the holes on the cover or the block and redill and tap becaue not all of the bolt holes line up. Also the oil pan will need some modifieing to get it to work, and you will need to either cut the intake off the head and make a custom piece to clear the pump, or just cut a 3x4" window in the intake to clear the Gov. housing and shut down rod on the pump.

PHD diesel makes a complete kit to do the conversion minus the pump and injectors, but you have to take your truck, pump, injectors, and around $5K for THEM to do the conversion for you. I PMed him today about just sending me the parts to do it myself and haven't got anything back yet.

Another option would be to just do a regular p-pump 24V build with a CR head, but you will still need to either make your own custom intake or cut and fill in a window in the intake to clear the Gov. Housing.

Thanks I'll be checking into this. Sounds pricey but can probably make up for alot of it with all th CR junk I won't need anymore.
 
What about a built 12v or 24v, Manual VB in the tranny and swap it in?
 
The PHD price is if you drop off your truck and he does the work. If all you want is the cover, gears, oil pump ect it's considerably less.

Don't go the 12v cover route unless your time isn't worth anything. By the time you mod everything just to make the cover/pump fit you still have to make the accessories fit, unless your not using the A/C, PS pump, alternator ect.
 
I am building one right now, and it is possible to use a 12v cover but there is some fab work involved. If you can afford it, just buy a cover built for the conversion. Here is what you are looking at without a billet cover...

Swap crank, cam, ps, pump, oil pump, gears as the Cr gear drives and straight.
Weld up the block, and redrill mounting holes with the correct gear lash.
Cut the front off both oil pans, and reweld the front of the 12v pan on the cr pan.
Fuel lines for a Cr head.
Cut head to clear pump.

I dont know if there are parts out to make all this easier, but those are the differences anyway.
 
I just don't think the realibility is there with the CR. When I tried to run the 2.6 cover I avadently didn't back my fuel down enough. Melted 4 forged pistons and blew oil out of the valvecover on the underneath of the hood hard enough to spray out of the hood all over the fenders. I'm done for the year but will be back next year with a 13mm pump 5,000 rpm's and probably a manual.


If you think it is hard to turn the engine down with a CR, why do you think a Ppump would be easier?
 
I think its more about duration and the 3 injection events than anything. I guess smarty level 7 is too much fuel for a s400 with a 2.6 race cover. Dan I think the problem is I had it tuned for the 2.8 and 3.0 covers then thru the 2.6 cover on backed down some fuel and tried it. I guess I should have started low and tuned my way up but was waiting on the 2.6 cover for quite some time after we started pulling.
 
I think he ment the crank gear needs to be changed.


Yea, the draw back I have seen, is that the gear is very hard to get off, I may not have the right puller, and also the service manual says to cut the gear off and replace it.
 
Yea, the draw back I have seen, is that the gear is very hard to get off, I may not have the right puller, and also the service manual says to cut the gear off and replace it.

Sharp chisel and a BFH and break it off.
 
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