p-pumping a CR motor

blownsmoke2 said:
I think its more about duration and the 3 injection events than anything. I guess smarty level 7 is too much fuel for a s400 with a 2.6 race cover. Dan I think the problem is I had it tuned for the 2.8 and 3.0 covers then thru the 2.6 cover on backed down some fuel and tried it. I guess I should have started low and tuned my way up but was waiting on the 2.6 cover for quite some time after we started pulling.
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Yes I think the duration and the 3rd event hurts, but that 3rd even also helps with those big chargers. Get the injector sized so you can turn the duration down.
 
zstroken said:
Yea, the draw back I have seen, is that the gear is very hard to get off, I may not have the right puller, and also the service manual says to cut the gear off and replace it.
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Good thing I have an extra motor sitting in the back with a bad hole. May make a good guinne pig.
 
zstroken said:
Yes I think the duration and the 3rd event hurts, but that 3rd even also helps with those big chargers. Get the injector sized so you can turn the duration down.
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Yeah and a big PPUMP helps with the big chargers too.
 
01PPUMP said:
I think he ment the crank gear needs to be changed.
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Yeah, the Cr gears are straight and the 12v/24v are helical. It sure would be nice if someone would make a straight pump gear for the swap, so all that would not be needed.
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
Yeah, the Cr gears are straight and the 12v/24v are helical. It sure would be nice if someone would make a straight pump gear for the swap, so all that would not be needed.
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I would be nervous the cam gear is very thin, probably wouldn't hold up very well.
 
sorry to hear about the truck ron. all this is making me nervous!!
 
zstroken said:
I would be nervous the cam gear is very thin, probably wouldn't hold up very well.
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Yeah, I have a complete short block sitting here, so its getting harder and harder not to just use it instead of the Cr. The injectors would also be alot easier to come by with 24v pistons.
 
can't you just use 24v injectors? I know you have to match the spray angle with the style bowl in the pistons, but that shouldn't be too hard to do.
 
You use 24v bodies, but to get the nozzles to match the 03 or 04.5+ piston bowl would be something custom. If you had 24v pistons, you could use the standard 24v spray pattern.
 
blownsmoke2 said:
I just don't think the realibility is there with the CR. When I tried to run the 2.6 cover I avadently didn't back my fuel down enough. Melted 4 forged pistons and blew oil out of the valvecover on the underneath of the hood hard enough to spray out of the hood all over the fenders. I'm done for the year but will be back next year with a 13mm pump 5,000 rpm's and probably a manual.
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If you don't mind sharing, what forged piston were you running, were they ceramic coated, were they the standard bowl shape and size? I did notice at Scheid you had some noticable blowby out the tube.

Ben, I am also curious about the set up you had in your truck when it melted I think you guys know I did the same thing last year at Ownesville and I am back together now but I still have some more tuning to do. Was either of you stacking the TST witht the smarty? What about rail pressures, conservative or on the ragged edge? Who's injectors and what size?

I understand if some of this information is classilfied, I'm just trying to understand some of the circumstances that melt these blasted CR motors down.
 
x2
I may not have near the truck you guys are running, but I've made 25 plus hooks 1700 plus and numerious passes on the street the same way. 130,000 miles original pistons, no melting. Granted mine is a 305 motor, is the piston design, and injection event the sole contributer.
 
i would say that 3rd injection event has a lot to do with it along with the tst. i am glad i got rid of mine when i did all the extra heat it produced wasnt worth the gain to me.
 
I just use the smarty TNT/R. I did have a TST R37 on the truck last year (which I still have and is forsale) with just the TNT programming and one of the injectors hung its self open at the end of the track. I thought it was a blown head gasket, but after moving it around to the shop from the trailer it worked its way loose and started working again. Too much duration for the injectors and pistons to handle, so I removed it and have never stacked anything with the smarty since. So far it seems to be ok other than the pyro showing 1900* going down the track, but I may have a melted a piston along time ago, and not know it. Too scared to pull the head off to see lol.
 
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