P2149

Make sure you have lift pump presure, good known FCA/PRV, 2000ish psi rail pressure and then you'll fire up.
 
So I got a snap on scanner on it and it is only showing 84.8 on the rail sensor while cranking.

So where do I start,a new rail sensor ?

If the sensor is bad would it show the readings like it did tonight ?
 
Do you have a friend you could borrow his sensor for a few min to make sure its reading incorrectly?
 
No,no one around here is that friendly.If they was I would of done tried it.

Also forgot to post earlier that I got the same reading with the FCA unplugged.
 
Last edited:
So your saying your only making 84 psi with the FCA unplugged while cranking? You should make max psi with it unplugged.

Get a known good FCA and swap it in and see what happens.
 
Gibson said:
So your saying your only making 84 psi with the FCA unplugged while cranking? You should make max psi with it unplugged.

Get a known good FCA and swap it in and see what happens.
Click to expand...

That is correct,Gibson would you start with that before a rail sensor ?
 
Tough to say if your buying the parts. But swapping them over. I would swap in an FCA first. That's always my first go to culprit when I have. No start situation. Especially if you can't start it when it unplugged and your getting fuel flow to the rail via cracking the rail.
 
I have a boy that is coming over Friday to swap FCA's,but I got the urge to try something else.I removed the FCA and done the ol shake test,it did rattle a little bit..Can anyone confirm this being a good way to test it or not ? Also spoke to Todd at TC and he said to hook it up to a battery and if it did click or jump it means that the FCA is good,Can anyone confirm this ?

Also unhooked the return line and I do not have any fuel coming from the PRV so I can mark that off the list.
 
If Todd said that's the way to check it, then that's the way to check it. He knows his stuff.
 
Yes it is

Looks like the injectors will be going back to exgery this coming week to be tested again.
 
Talked to Randy from Exergy today,he said that everything looked fine but the return on them.He said that they are getting close to being no good but shouldn't be giving me any problems.I was on the phone with him for a while gone threw ideals,he is going to talk to some other guys at the shop and see what they think.

I may try to swap the cp3 out,I am pretty close at just parting it out or selling it:doh:
 
Last edited:
I don't get if the return is to high to the point that it is said they are almost no good and then it is said they shouldn't give you problems doesn't add up. If their bad their bad or am I missing something?
 
WV Stud said:
Talked to Randy from Exergy today,he said that everything looked fine but the return on them.He said that they are getting close to being no good but shouldn't be giving me any problems.I was on the phone with him for a while gone threw ideals,he is going to talk to some other guys at the shop and see what they think.

I may try to swap the cp3 out,I am pretty close at just parting it out or selling it:doh:
Click to expand...

Whoa Trigger! Dont go swapping out your pump yet! :badidea:

What year is your truck?

Everything but the return looked good? The return rate is crucial, especially at cranking RPM.

What did they do to the injectors 2 months ago?

Have you checked the torque on the connector tube nuts?

Prove your parts bad before you replace them. Remove all of the injector lines, and retorque the connector tube nuts with a quality torque wrench to 41ft. lbs. If it still doesn't start, get a set of caps for the fuel rail. I know Snap-on has them, not sure who else. Remove the injector lines one at a time, cap the rail, and see if it starts. If and when it does, granted with a misfire, you found your culprit injector.

However, if the return rate is at its limit, or close to it on one or more injectors, you are setting yourself up for heartache by only replacing the ones that prove bad now. If one or two failed, the rest are not far behind. Except for the hit to your checkbook, its a wise idea to replace them as a set, and the connector tubes as well.
 
relay93 said:
I don't get if the return is to high to the point that it is said they are almost no good and then it is said they shouldn't give you problems doesn't add up. If their bad their bad or am I missing something?
Click to expand...

The return rate is a tad higher this time vs the first time they had them.He said that they are not that bad that the truck should not start.

12vf250 said:
Whoa Trigger! Dont go swapping out your pump yet! :badidea:

What year is your truck?

Everything but the return looked good? The return rate is crucial, especially at cranking RPM.

What did they do to the injectors 2 months ago?

Have you checked the torque on the connector tube nuts?

Prove your parts bad before you replace them. Remove all of the injector lines, and retorque the connector tube nuts with a quality torque wrench to 41ft. lbs. If it still doesn't start, get a set of caps for the fuel rail. I know Snap-on has them, not sure who else. Remove the injector lines one at a time, cap the rail, and see if it starts. If and when it does, granted with a misfire, you found your culprit injector.

However, if the return rate is at its limit, or close to it on one or more injectors, you are setting yourself up for heartache by only replacing the ones that prove bad now. If one or two failed, the rest are not far behind. Except for the hit to your checkbook, its a wise idea to replace them as a set, and the connector tubes as well.
Click to expand...

The truck is a 06,2 months ago when they had the injectors all they did was clean,balance,and replace 3 studs.Everything was torqued to specs when it went back together.I will start looking for a rail cap,these injectors was bought brand new by me and have maybe 12k miles on them.I know the rules you replace one,you replace them all.

I have a good known cp3 and fca coming to try out,and possibly be able to try a good RP sensor.I can't remember if I posted it or not but my IAT sensor that goes into the air intake was cut completey off.Upon some research I did find 3-4 guys with a bad IAT sensor causing a no start,I got a new sensor on the way.Also was told that there is actually fueling tables for that sensor via EFI.For all I know that sensor just may be my problem,but I won't know until I get the injectors back.

Travis
Thanks for your help,it was nice talking to you!!
 
Last edited:
Keep us posted when you get your sticks back. We have some more diagnosing to do before you start swapping out more parts.
 
WV Stud said:
The return rate is a tad higher this time vs the first time they had them.He said that they are not that bad that the truck should not start.



The truck is a 06,2 months ago when they had the injectors all they did was clean,balance,and replace 3 studs.Everything was torqued to specs when it went back together.I will start looking for a rail cap,these injectors was bought brand new by me and have maybe 12k miles on them.I know the rules you replace one,you replace them all.

I have a good known cp3 and fca coming to try out,and possibly be able to try a good RP sensor.I can't remember if I posted it or not but my IAT sensor that goes into the air intake was cut completey off.Upon some research I did find 3-4 guys with a bad IAT sensor causing a no start,I got a new sensor on the way.Also was told that there is actually fueling tables for that sensor via EFI.For all I know that sensor just may be my problem,but I won't know until I get the injectors back.

Travis
Thanks for your help,it was nice talking to you!!
Click to expand...


so your saying ,you brought these injectors "new" and only have 12,000 miles on them ?
and when last checked ,they were on the border of being good ?

wow how can that be ? 12k .i saw a guy sellin a set on here said they only had 10k ,but if thats the case why take the chance .

and what brand are your injectors ,i want to make sure i stay away from that brand !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top