no, manuals have a much larger output than the autos, so the t-cases do not match up.
LOL in that case-you better go race motocross or BMX or somethin LOLJust wanna be able to race without tranny carnage 'as much'.
Thanks!!! I'm new to this auto stuff and still learning. Whichever I get my hands on first. A NV5600 or 48RE, that's the route I'll probably go. Just wanna be able to race without tranny carnage 'as much'.
Thanks!!! I'm new to this auto stuff and still learning. Whichever I get my hands on first. A NV5600 or 48RE, that's the route I'll probably go. Just wanna be able to race without tranny carnage 'as much'.
I've dockboyed plenty of things in my lifetime before the term Dockboy came to the surface.jeff just cause you "dockboy" v-10 viper motors:doh: doesn't mean a 48re can't hold up under his foot.
Definately go the auto route if you will be racing.
Also, the transfer case will work with an input shaft swap. An auto input shaft can be had for $100 (I think I've got another one if you need it). The manual input shafts go for around $150...
Thanks!!! I'm new to this auto stuff and still learning. Whichever I get my hands on first. A NV5600 or 48RE, that's the route I'll probably go. Just wanna be able to race without tranny carnage 'as much'.
the engine has 76k miles on it and that includes stock injectors, stock turbo, diy modded cp3, pcm, under hood wiring harness, clutch fan, common rail and line, fuel filter housing, ac compressor, alternator, starter, ect. ect. pretty much unhooking the tranny, exhaust, battery cables and motor mounts and pulling it and set it on the pallet.
LOL in that case-you better go race motocross or BMX or somethin LOL
Looking for them little clips that hold the "shifter boots" in place. I need 2 (or more) of them.
Also, the shroud around the dash, the black piece that you take off first before you get to the screws for the gauge cluster. if you don't have any holes in that, I'll take it.
What about the AC condenser it self? is it dented up much?