Pics of Welded Dana 80?

I drive mine about 50% of the time and both front and back are welded .Its not as smooth as a stock setup but not bad
 
ok.. dont make fun, but here is my homemade mini spool.

not bad i hope for my first one haha

n586526519_1622539_4493196.jpg
 
Your front dshaft will always have force going to it then, not sure if it would hurt anything in the dodge tcase tho. I'd also like to know if its ok.

It isn't going to hurt the t-case. I've been running with a locked front end for nearly a year now in my DD with no issues.

Add me to the list of people who feels that a welded stock carrier is just fine.
 
So how does the welded or full spool work on the street. Does you tires always chirp or does you rear end bang?
 
So how does the welded or full spool work on the street. Does you tires always chirp or does you rear end bang?

Wondering the same thing... and how does the truck drive on dry streets with a welded front end? Sounds like it'd handle like the front left tire having a bunch of negative camber.
 
YES...the chirp every time you turn! Front welded is ok if you have CAD so it's not locked in all the time. If it's locked in...you can't turn!
 
In my new experience with my welded front dana 60 (with CAD) and welded dana 80 rear.

I wouldnt weld at all if the truck was on the road.

my truck is strictly pulling and it is a true pain to try and wiggle around and constantly unlocking CAD to move in pits then lock back up for pull etc.

but i guess its a personal choice. it did save me a ton of change on my puller
 
Does it pull to the left bad when at cruising speeds?

If you are talking the rear welded...no it won't pull one way or the other(as long as your tire PSI is the same) If your talking about the front being welded...as long as the CAD is unlocked no...
 
Bryan,
What gave it that finish.. was it heated and peened to look like that.. or just grinder marks.?.. Looks good...
Bryan

ok.. dont make fun, but here is my homemade mini spool.

not bad i hope for my first one haha

n586526519_1622539_4493196.jpg
 
Looks like grinding down the welds to me!

Chris


youre correct.

the welds looked really good to start with, used a MIG on it. but i just wanted it to look nice and shiny.

i think it was a good way to spend a rainy afternoon and save $550
 
youre correct.

the welds looked really good to start with, used a MIG on it. but i just wanted it to look nice and shiny.

i think it was a good way to spend a rainy afternoon and save $550



Nice work, looks good!!!:clap:
 
the key is to leave the diff completely bolted together and get some darn good spot welds between the gears before unbolting and removing from case or else it will expand during welding and you will never get it back in to save your life. Very tight tolerances in there when it comes to reassembling it.
I put some small steel blocks between each spider/drive gear to take up space then weld weld weld

and stay away from the flat surface around each of the 4 drive studs. leave those fresh and clean

and take serious time to get spatter all cleaned up from spot welding while in the case and you should have you a free mini spool.

took about two hrs to weld up and lots of wire
 
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