Ported Exhaust Manifold

Haha my member could not support the weight of a manifold...thanks for trying though Tyler.

I doubt I run a 3-piece again.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
a DRILL!?!?!?

damn son, get a friggin' grinder... just because your truck is slow doesn't mean your porting has to be slow!
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No air compressor. And the drill didn't take me that long at all. It cut through the manifold quite easily. Took me about 4 hours to port the entire manifold and I spent an hour polishing/smoothing it out.

kipo, no sense in spending the money on a new manifold the OE one hasn't cracked. Once this one cracks I'll look in to getting a 3 piece design and I'll port the snot out of it.
 
I can't talk tooo badly about HTT at all.. They did warranty my cracked manifold. It wasn't leaking, but was cracked externally.
 
Bobcat698 said:
I can't talk tooo badly about HTT at all.. They did warranty my cracked manifold. It wasn't leaking, but was cracked externally.
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They sure wouldn't warranty mine. I had the reciept and all, but they offered no kind of support or even a discounted replacement.
 
BgBlDodge said:
No air compressor. And the drill didn't take me that long at all. It cut through the manifold quite easily. Took me about 4 hours to port the entire manifold and I spent an hour polishing/smoothing it out.

kipo, no sense in spending the money on a new manifold the OE one hasn't cracked. Once this one cracks I'll look in to getting a 3 piece design and I'll port the snot out of it.
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they make electric die grinders! LOL

took me 30min to port my T4 manifold w/ a die grinder
 
And good variable speed electric ones are $250 +.
But I loves me some Makita.
 
I haven't even thought of doing this. I have my head ported as much as possible on both sides, One of the biggest intake horn's you can find, 3.5" lines from the intercooler, twins, I have an ats manifolds but didn't even think about porting it. That would be the last spot left that would have any restriction. I'm gonna do this next week when I get my truck back...
 
Honestly i've not paid attention to this that much. I touched up my PDI t4 when I bought it but mainly just to smooth some transitions at the mouth out nothing drastic. I have run 3 manifolds now (stock, speedshifts header, and pdi t4) and the only thing I noticed drastic was that the header took a while to get from 0-10psi and after that the header took off faster and provided cooler egts.

When you guys are port matching to the gasket you are making sure the gasket is the same size as the exhaust port on the head aren't you? You're not going to see gains enlarging the passages of the manifold if they are being supplied by a smaller exhaust port (i.e. you'll be creating a low pressure area at the transition from port to manifold if the port is smaller in the head). Just food for thought. I will have a closer look when I remove my PDI t4 to put the stock unported manifold back on and my 362.
 
NickTF said:
Honestly i've not paid attention to this that much. I touched up my PDI t4 when I bought it but mainly just to smooth some transitions at the mouth out nothing drastic. I have run 3 manifolds now (stock, speedshifts header, and pdi t4) and the only thing I noticed drastic was that the header took a while to get from 0-10psi and after that the header took off faster and provided cooler egts.

When you guys are port matching to the gasket you are making sure the gasket is the same size as the exhaust port on the head aren't you? You're not going to see gains enlarging the passages of the manifold if they are being supplied by a smaller exhaust port (i.e. you'll be creating a low pressure area at the transition from port to manifold if the port is smaller in the head). Just food for thought. I will have a closer look when I remove my PDI t4 to put the stock unported manifold back on and my 362.
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On the port side there is maybe 1/16" difference between the gasket size and port size. It might even be smaller than that. So I wouldn't worry to much about it.
 
steps prevent reversion...

gasket matching all ports indentically doesn't really help very much unless you've got the thing doweled to install perfectly so that the ports match up exactly. Otherwise, you always want to port larger to prevent a step in the wrong direction and to help w/ anti-reversion
 
Forrest Nearing said:
steps prevent reversion...

gasket matching all ports indentically doesn't really help very much unless you've got the thing doweled to install perfectly so that the ports match up exactly. Otherwise, you always want to port larger to prevent a step in the wrong direction and to help w/ anti-reversion
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Is there honestly any overlap in the stock cam applications most run to allow exhaust to back up in the intake? I've never seen a trace of soot in my intake plenum :what:

Further, I think stepping aiding in anti-reversion will only take place when you're dealing with a naturally aspirated motor with lots of overlap where a good exhaust system creates a vacuum on the intake charge through pressure differences/wave tuning. In our turbo chargered diesels typically we see more pressure in the exhaust than in the intake and I don't see stepping the port to manifold doing anything to aid in preventing exhaust from traveling back up gradient. $.02
 
I've seen soot in my intake when I was running almost 50psi of boost on stock valve springs. New valve springs and no more soot in the intake.
 
BgBlDodge said:
I've seen soot in my intake when I was running almost 50psi of boost on stock valve springs. New valve springs and no more soot in the intake.
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Ok, so you had a valve or more hanging open. Soot showing up as a result of this would make sense as it's essentially adding duration to the exhaust and or intake side of the cam but not like you want it (not controlled) which would result in more overlap.

I don't see there being enough overlap in a properly working stock cam valve train to warrant any kind of steps to prevent reversion. I just don't see it being benefecial in such a high pressure relative to the intake environment. This is just my educated guess however, I could be missing something.:Cheer:
 
well, like I said, unless you have indexing dowels or some other means of perfectly locating the exhaust manifold to the head, I would port the manifold a fair amount larger than the exhaust ports... you can move the manifold around on the bolts a fair amount, and a 3pc gives you furthur opportunity to cause a step :o
 
Forrest Nearing said:
well, like I said, unless you have indexing dowels or some other means of perfectly locating the exhaust manifold to the head, I would port the manifold a fair amount larger than the exhaust ports... you can move the manifold around on the bolts a fair amount, and a 3pc gives you furthur opportunity to cause a step :o
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That makes total sense...I did all the porting myself on my old ford 460 motor and had to redo a few things the first time around. There's always a learning curve...
 
Forrest Nearing said:
well, like I said, unless you have indexing dowels or some other means of perfectly locating the exhaust manifold to the head, I would port the manifold a fair amount larger than the exhaust ports... you can move the manifold around on the bolts a fair amount, and a 3pc gives you furthur opportunity to cause a step :o
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^^^^^That's what I did on my 3-piece. Put the bolts in and see where it the gasket hangs at and then transpose that over to the manifold. :clap:
 
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