Ported Exhaust Manifold

I agree with Forest, When I did my manifold I made sure the recieving side was about 1/8" larger so that even if it lined up a little crooked it would not inder flow.
 
Got about 75 miles on the manifold and I'm still impressed with it. Especially in traffic. I got a vid of my turbo spooling ill post tomorrow. This 66 is WAY to much fun. I haven't had this much fun with a turbo since I upgraded from my hy35 to a KSB-1.
 
NickTF said:
Is there honestly any overlap in the stock cam applications most run to allow exhaust to back up in the intake?

Further, I think stepping aiding in anti-reversion will only take place when you're dealing with a naturally aspirated motor with lots of overlap where a good exhaust system creates a vacuum on the intake charge through pressure differences/wave tuning. In our turbo chargered diesels typically we see more pressure in the exhaust than in the intake and I don't see stepping the port to manifold doing anything to aid in preventing exhaust from traveling back up gradient. $.02
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The "in-cylinder EGR" that Cummins designed into the CR with the cam's tight LSA guarantees the possibility of reversion... and CTDs operate according to NA rules when the compressor isn't doing much.

Tyler's excited about ride42's member (oh wait - that's another thread! :doh:); I mean, about how his 66 spools so well... that means exhaust porting increased his mill's NA efficiency.
 
I think my truck needs an inhaler in a blue bottle to help increase its efficiency.
 
Okay, I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed a big difference Tyler.

I ported mine out when I o-ringed the head.. I used to bark the hell out of this poor turbo. It hasn't barked once since porting, and I was starting to think I was going crazy. I didn't think porting could make that much of a difference... But I noticed a huge change.

I still don't know how the heck you did that with a drill. I used a dremel with the cable attatchment. Worked great. I did a little work on the head, a TON of work on the manifold, and a bunch on the turbo. I couldn't beleive how much material came out. There wasn't much on the exhaust ports, but where the turbo bolts up to the manifold.. I couldn't beleive how much I opened up.

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I was debating opening up the turbo flange area some more but I was starting to worry about making it to thin.

As far as doing this with a drill, coors light makes things so much easier. LOL
 
Coors Light dominates.....it's amazing the things you can do when Coors helps you through. Makes me want to do some porting.
 
surely you guys that are porting exhaust manifolds are doin your exhaust housing also heres some pic from a local guy that does tractor heads and is also doin 12v and soon be 24v heads. A few friends and all the tractor guys running hot farm and limited pro tractors reccomended him. I asked him about all the polishing people do to make it extremely smooth and he said its a waste of time. But his work does feel really smooth as is.

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No. It's hard to cut properly. Sawzalls and cutoff wheels make cutting things easy. :D
 
You can buy electric knock-off dremel tools at Harbor Freight for 20 bucks. They work fine but only accept an 1/8" shank. Can you buy a carbide cutter with 1/8" shank?
 
Big Blue24 said:
You can buy electric knock-off dremel tools at Harbor Freight for 20 bucks. They work fine but only accept an 1/8" shank. Can you buy a carbide cutter with 1/8" shank?
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don't even waste your time or money on those. pneumatic or variable electric is the only way to go but you better have a big air compressor.
 
I use a dbl cut carbide cutter for stainless makes quick work on any steel
 
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