Porting the new Hamilton 12v head.

how did you go about polishing those pieces to that finish? i love the work and would definately consider doing it on mine when the head comes off.
 
rgsmith70 said:
hey guys, been a gasser for over 20 years, have a 99' 24 valve with 700,000 miles on it. so i decided to make a 12 valve for my 71 olds cutlass to beat up on some of my gasser friends. all the power to be had out of most any head is in the bowl work, valve job, and combustion chamber, where applicable. port matchin and port work is secondary, unless u r so far off u need a yard stick to measure it!. all engines r just glamorized air pumps, so the fore mentioned areas r the weak points in any head as far as power gains are concerned. mondello reinforced my theory in makin a small combustion chamber in this head, if for nothin else but to unshroud the valves! take a look at my pics here and let me have some feed back. b easy on me guys..lol!
Click to expand...

I have seen other examples where people have added a very limited combustion chamber of sorts in the head to promote low lift flow as you have. Anyone have any comment regarding if this works or is this more secret squirrel stuff?
 
he just unshrouded the valves in the best way possible. some heads are limited by headgaskets and cykinder walls when it comes to unshrouding valves on the outside. it has been proven to work many many times over, increasing the lowest part of lift and unobstructing flow out the valve seat. will actually add a good bit of cfm to that low lift and even helps quite a bit in mid lift flow too.
 
Depends on whether the cam exceeds 25% L/D ratio... and on valve timing - is short-circuiting the intake & exhaust ports desired? ;)

Also, C/R reduction via increased combustion volume in exchange for greater low-lift flow (within a SuperFlow's margin of error) is a non-sequitur for a street truck.
 
XLR8R said:
C/R reduction via increased combustion volume in exchange for greater low-lift flow (within a SuperFlow's margin of error) is a non-sequitur for a street truck.
Click to expand...

got it
 
to polish the valves, put them in a drill, start at 220 sand paper and sart the drill put a little piece of sand paper (WET) on the valve as it spins. when the valve is all uniform with the 220 texture. work ur way up to 1500 wet sanding. 400, 600, 800, 1000, than 1500. than use a cotton ball with turtle wax rubbing coumpound, than new cotton ball and polishing compound... than ur done ;) don't forget to do the back of the valve too! especially exhaust, more important u do the exhaust backs.

the c/r was lowered to 15.1/1 on purpose. i am lookin for cool dense air and better flow as opposed to just lots of hot boost. more power at less boost. easier on parts. (more efficent.

at first i will b using one he351vgt than i will b using two IN PARALELL! ( MORE FLOW LESS BOOST.. ;) )

my combinatation is;

internals balanced to 5,350 rpm
5k governor springs
.024 dv
afc mods, no plate
hamilton 188/210 cam and retainer for the gear
bee hive springs
20* timing to start
of course all the head work
5x17 injectors @ 260bar. on the button
286110 pistons ( 47.1 cc chambers) {polished}
99' 24 valve lifters
arp 12mm studs torqued to 140+ (oooo hope i dindn't f**k those up..lol)
.020 gasket
5 thou off deck and 5 thou off head
water meth kit
th400 with gear vendor
the pump is a 215 pump
no ac
manual steering
goin in 1971 OLDS CUTLASS
308 or 3.42 gear, haven't decided yet.

this is the basic set up for now, few more thins goin in as time goes by.
any feed back on this combo guys, first diesel drag engine for me, always been a gasser.
 
go with a 3.08 gear, my brothers riviera has a 3.42 and while it is fun (its a vp44 engine that revs to 3000) it will only go 100 with a 28 inch tall tire. these engines make more than enough torque to hit hard with a taller gear and still have some top end.

rerail thread
 
i am leading in that direction, i think i will b using a 32 tire, but not sure there either, car will weigh about 3800 lbs probably.
 
other than a lenco, the 400 is the strongest tranny ever built in its class, 4l80e than 350 turbo
 
yes they do, monkey see monkey do guy!! and here is the kicker, u don't have to spend 10.000 dollars to do it! lol 2000 hp they build these for! dp ur research... the 47r and re r junk comparitively, again keep in mind what u have to spend to make those 47's hold up, u might have all the money in the world, but most of us don't! for the trucks, i might stay with the 47 cause of mod i wiould have to do to make the chevy work.. mabe... but in a car, without question, the 400... call the tranny guys and gearvendor, watch what they say...lol good luck curious george.
 
2000hp? neato!!! horsepower doesn't break ****... torque does

lol @ $10,000!!! maybe if you're a magazine racer

FWIW, run the tall gear, but I get a giggle out of people thinking they're going to run a TH400 behind their Cummins and get out "cheaper" than a well built 47/48
 
the hp and tqe values r square on that tranny.. didn't think i needed to mention that, but, oh well.... thats wright 2000 lbs/tqe too, search around, c what u find.
 
thats what happens when ur tryin to cover up the fact u have been schooled!...;)
u can bench race here all u want, i have seen it and done it for a long time, u go ahead and spend thousands and thousands on crap the WILL break, i will use what will NOT break, no matter what u type in ur key board..lol and remember einstein, my car will weigh 3800 lbs with this engine in it!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top