ProStreet F-100

[madmikeismad]

or Dry sump?

 

[AHall]

Oil pan on the ground? Are you going to section it and kick it out to the sides like the gassers do for capacity with clearance?

I thought about doing that at first. I don't plan on it anymore. With a 3 gal oil capacity I think it is way over kill for a drag truck. Maybe down the road if I get better with aluminum tig I'll make a winged moroso looking thing.

 

[quito195]

I thought about doing that at first. I don't plan on it anymore. With a 3 gal oil capacity I think it is way over kill for a drag truck. Maybe down the road if I get better with aluminum tig I'll make a winged moroso looking thing.

I think Brandon (Joefarmer) cut the oil capacity way down on his S10 (6-7 quarts IIRC) and had trouble keeping bearings in it. Just food for thought.

 

[AHall]

It should reduce capacity around 5qts. If the engine can haul heavy loads for extended periods up the passes for over 300,000 miles with 12quarts, I would hope it can handle 1320ft for 6 seconds(just kidding LOL) on 7 qts. Oil changes at 5-6k miles in the daily driving application vs a few passes. I would like to hear some more opinions though. Cavitation could be a concern on hard acceleration.

 

[crackerman]

Its not the oils quality thing... its the oil staying up top in the engine and running the pump/better end dry...

 

[madmikeismad]

Its not the oils quality thing... its the oil staying up top in the engine and running the pump/better end dry...

Is there really 5 qts spread throughout the engine/head when it's running?

 

[longhorn859]

If you decrease oil capacity you will have issues draining the pan if you run high rpms. A lot of builds have had to add oil capacity to live.

 

[cranked_dodge]

We reduced our oil capacity but had to add a Moroso oil accumulator. At the end of the 1/4 when we were on the brakes hard our oil pressure would drop. We added the accumulator and our issues were solved.

Made a big difference. The one we run is the 2qt one.

 

[zfaylor]

This might be a dumb question but lets say the pan capacity is reduced several quarts. It only takes 7 quarts to read full on the dipstick at that point. At what point can you overfill before you run into other issues? What issues arise from overfilling?

 

[jlbayes]

aeration of the oil from the crank and rods dragging through it.

 

[AHall]

We reduced our oil capacity but had to add a Moroso oil accumulator. At the end of the 1/4 when we were on the brakes hard our oil pressure would drop. We added the accumulator and our issues were solved.

Made a big difference. The one we run is the 2qt one.

Which oil pressure port did you tie into?

 

[AHall]

Has anyone built a windage tray when they chopped the oil pan shorter?

 

[jlibert]

Is your crank knife-edged?

 

[cranked_dodge]

We have a windage tray in our pan as well as flaps that keep some of the oil back while hard braking.

The port we went into is the port directly above the filter on the oil filter housing.
It is unfiltered oil that goes into the accumulator but when the accumulator pushes oil back in it pushes it through the filter then.

We had Chad Riley from Diesel Performance Unlimited build us the oil pan

 

[crackerman]

You can also help oil get back to the bottom by enlarging, and radiusing the oil return holes, and take any and all crank case evacuation from the tappet cover and front cover. If it evacs out of the valve cover, gases can prevent oil front draining properly.
It helps. But in the end proper capacity(even if over full) or an accumulator to take up the slack is ideal.

 

[AHarvey]

Awesome build. Don't know how I've missed it.

I chopped my pan down about 3" Then added some back to the front of the sump. I was worried about oil temp more than anything. You lose too much capacity and the oil heats up quick. Mine holds 11qts to the top of the full mark now.

 

[cranked_dodge]

If i didn't have the engine diaper all on my truck right now I would take a picture of it and show what ours looks like.
I do have these side shots of it though.

I thought I had pictures of the inside but I guess those will have to stay secret for now.


We did add a little bit of a sump at the back where the oil pickup is. Not shown in these pictures

Our oil pickup is modified as well of course.

 

[AHall]

Those look great guys.

On your accumulator do you run a manual valve or electric?

 

[cranked_dodge]

We have a manual valve and we usually don't ever close it. We usually forget about it.

We figured turn the engine off it fills the engine with oil and when you start cranking it over it pumps oil back into the accumulator.

On hard braking we dont ever see the engine oil pressure drop below 20psi. I know thats a little low but better than the 0 that was happening before.

We have orifices in our head to keep it from being the path with least resistance so when we do drop pressure the oil doesn't just flow into the head it will actually push into the areas its needed

 

[AHall]

Installed new tires and wheels. Old weighed 54 lbs each. New weigh 29lbs each. New tires will need minor trimming with new offset. Good unsprung weight loss. Working toward cage interior. D/s door bars, d/s floor bars, dash bar, front through firewall bars done, clip and hood mocked. Anti roll bar and diagonal bar in. Total weight at 2775lbs. Cut passenger door bars, but it is easier to work for now without them welded in. Gained a lot of info on my existing converter and direction on where I need to be.