pulling advise from the high horse power guys

1" is the rule at some places, once again some places on the weights but I haven't made a mount yet
 
Ladder bars! you dont have any on there that I seen. Thats gonna make a huge difference, also build a weight rack and get that front end down. Is the truck leveled seems like it's sittng on the back tires an awful lot. Maybe try riding the clutch a little longer if you can. Then put more air in the back tires and put less in the front.
 
The truck is leveled in front. I had the rear sitting up higher in the first 2 pulls but lowered for the 3rd thinking that might help some
No ladder bars just traction bars. Guess I'll have to turn these into ladders

I tried riding in the first couple times and that didn't work so I tried bringing it out hard
 
I'd ditch whatever bar you have because its not working. Is it a custom built bar? That one hook you were blowing the tires off and then it just goes to bouncing. What does your truck weigh? Theres alot of different variables but whatever your doing now you need to forget it.
 
I say ladder bars longer the better, more air in the rear tires, and what arre you using for blocks? It seems like it doesn't wanna stay on the blocks when you launch.
 
in my opinion its all about your bars. makes some longer bars that go from below the axle to the frame. I went off the bottom of my u bolts brace and I usually try to make it pivot at the front of the drive shaft on the frame. If you watch it seems to start and come from the rear flexing forward..
 
DEZLFREK said:
in my opinion its all about your bars. makes some longer bars that go from below the axle to the frame. I went off the bottom of my u bolts brace and I usually try to make it pivot at the front of the drive shaft on the frame. If you watch it seems to start and come from the rear flexing forward..
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unless your axle u-bolt plate is welded to the axle tubes that doesnt do any good either. the axle can still rotate
 
HILLBILLYPRIDE said:
unless your axle u-bolt plate is welded to the axle tubes that doesnt do any good either. the axle can still rotate
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You mean that spring perch that is welded to the axle that the bolts go around won't stop it from rotating? I think you need to go and look at your truck again....
 
zstroken said:
You mean that spring perch that is welded to the axle that the bolts go around won't stop it from rotating? I think you need to go and look at your truck again....
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No I dont! those leaf springs do flex a bunch so if the flex the axle can still rotate some in the lower perches it would be better if he welded the lower perch solid.
 
HILLBILLYPRIDE said:
No I dont! those leaf springs do flex a bunch so if the flex the axle can still rotate some in the lower perches it would be better if he welded the lower perch solid.
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The leafs will wrap, but your axle Ubolts hold the leafs together directly on top of the axle, this is what is keeping the axle from rotating.

The leafs will flex away from the axle, but where they are clamped right on top of the axle they won't flex. If they do you need to tighten your axle bolts.


Of course as I type this I am thinking 2nd gen, I think the third gens are similar design. If they aren't then I will insert my foot in my mouth.

On the second gen if your ubolts are tight, the axle won't rotate. If they did why are the diff case spinning on the tubes?
 
when the chunk spins just use this tool it will fix it
0830091804-00.jpg
 
We hav a three link suspension on rear of truck and let our front way down never had an issue except when we tried 35 inch tires on 16 rims.
 
R.C.inc. said:
I was slipping it some in the first pulls and it did the same thing. I should have the videos up here shortly for you to see.
Hell the one pull I even got the tires rolling like they should be and 15ft into it bounce again
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You changed the suspension after the first 2 pulls, and this last pull you dumped it hard. If it was me, I would try 2" of travel to get the rear end down a little, with 60psi in the rears and about 25-30 up front, and come out easy.

I ran BFG's last year at the buck for one pull with 55-60 in the rears and 25 up front and 2" of travel and it hooked hard but smooth. I came out easy, when the clutch grabbed it blew the tires off to the point of smoking them but they eventually hooked and pulled me down hard.
 
R.C. Inc I am in the same boat you are in. I have an 01 extended cab longbox that has the same attitude problem as your truck. Any time i put a suspension block in it gets a bounce exactly like yours. I am running a bottom traction bar, added to leafs to my spring pack, mounted a top traction bar to the top of the leaf pack bolted to the frame to no avail. Still gets a bounce. This weekend we are gonna try clamping the springs together to make them solid like one and try that. We are pulling our hair out as well. No matter how hard or soft you drive it the truck will never lay down unless you remove the suspension stop and then it goes down the track smooth as hell but you aint gonna win a pull with out a suspension stop. I am also in the 650hp range as well. Usually run 65 psi rear 35 psi front 35 inch mud ta tires pulling in 4th low in a 6 speed.
 
My traction bars mount like the ones in the picture above and they mount on the frame right in front of where the skid plate for the transfer case mounts. I took the plate off cuz it was in the way.

Tj I respect what you have to say. Hard to not listen to you the way you pull. I dumped it really hard this last time cuz alot of guys were telling me I don't come out hard enough. They said if I bring it out hard the wheels will spin through the hop.
How far should I ride the clutch before I bring it out?
 
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