Questions about my Super B special

Dusterb318

Regular Jackoff
Joined
Oct 13, 2009
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326
I installed a Super B Special along with the BD exhaust manifold on my truck this weekend. I understand my cruising (at 65) EGT's are going to be a bit higher with the B than the HX35 as the turbine and housing are bigger.... 650* vs. 750* but my WOT EGT's haven't dropped as I was expecting. At 3/4 throttle I am still seeing 1300* + while on flat ground and an empty truck? I need to retune my AFC but that shouldn't be effecting this as it's out of the way by now as the boost gauge was showing 40psi. I have 7x14 CPP injectors, 18* of timing and a 0 plate that is in the middle or slightly back from middle and a 4K GSK. Is it a tuning thing, is it normal? Is it my injectors and to much fuel? It definitely pulls harder but it's not cleaning up the smoke like I thought either. Should I wait for the breakin to be done and give her WOT and see what it does or am I just not used to this set-up and worrying about nothing? I also am going to change up my GSK by pulling that middle spring so how many clicks when I do that 1 soft + 4 as a starting point?
 
I did some more driving today. I noticed that at part throttle when coming onto the highway from the ramp when the converter locks it will snuff the turbo...if I am higher in the RPM range it won't or just barely in the throttle it won't. I also tightened up the starwheel here at work so it's halfway in the plug...I'll see how it is on the ride home. I wanted to pull the AFC housing and set it with compressed air but this will work until I have time to pull the housing. I have the break in period done now so I can do some WOT runs and see how it acts.
 
1300 is not hot for a performance truck running fuel only with a single turbo.

If you expect to see 1000 or less, you made the wrong decision to buy a single 64mm turbo.

The only place that turbo will likely show lower EGT's than the stock turbo is at high rpm 3000+, or at high boost full throttle conditions like 50+ psi.
 
That makes me feel better....this a new new learning curve for me so that was helpful info.
 
Honestly, unless you are towing, an EGT gauge is almost worthless. On my 98', when I'm towing, I try to keep EGT's at 1150 or lower on the long grades. In my case, engine coolant temp becomes an issue on long grades if i let EGT's hover around 1250, although Cummins' claims the motor is rated to run at 1250 without meltdown issues, the factory cooling system has been the limiting factor on both of my daily driver/ towing trucks I've owned. I tow in the desert southwest where outside air temps are quite a bit warmer than towing up north.



On my 98' when I'm not towing, I frequently hit 1500 and don't even think twice about it.

On my 95', it doesn't have an EGT gauge, but I would be surprised if it's hovering around 2000* at the end of a 1/4 mile run. Hundreds of passes and no egt related motor or turbo damage to date.


If low EGT gauge readings will give you peace of mind, advance your timing to 25* instead of your current 18*. That will lower EGT's by at least 100* cruising but all it's doing is making more of the burn happen in the cylinder so you really aren't running any cooler, you're just absorbing more of the burn energy in the cooling system so the exhaust flow will be a little cooler.
 
It's not that I'm looking for cooler EGT's it's just been burned in my head with the 1400 but that's for long periods. So if what I am seeing is expected then I'm good with it. I can always add water/meth for when I do tow a few times a year or for some extra power and peace of mind. I don't have any cooling issues....hell the truck runs to cool and is hard to warm up most of the time. So now that that's cleared up I am on to tuning this thing is so it's not a smokey pig. As for the smoke em GSK mod I did some searches and found a TON of great info but nothing specific about the set-up. I'll probably start with 1 soft and 4 hard clicks and see how it is unless someone here says different. Then I'll dive into the AFC for some more tuning with the extra info from Weston's AFC thread. Thanks Blue. I appreciate the info and help.
 
my rule of thumb is anything under 1300 for over 15 seconds and dont look at the guage for any temps over that for anything under 15 seconds..
 
my rule of thumb is anything under 1300 for over 15 seconds and dont look at the guage for any temps over that for anything under 15 seconds..

is it just me or did this not make sence....lol

your only making 40psi? adjust the wastegate to run around 50psi and bump the timing up to 22-24*
 
No it was making 40 psi at 3/4 throttle....it hits 50psi at WOT per some blasts lat night. I have to watch it though until my studs get here so I don't push the head gasket. I had the AFC to tight last night for my first run as it was a turd so I kept moving it until I found the spot and it's pretty good now. I'm still gonna pull it and see what psi it's FF at. I'm also going to check the pyro probe to make sure it's not touching the manifold. I doubt it because it swings and cools down at idle I would think if it was touching it would stay hot and read the manifold's surface temp and that shouldn't drop nearly as fast.
 
my rule of thumb is anything under 1300 for over 15 seconds and dont look at the guage for any temps over that for anything under 15 seconds..

read slowly, it makes sense and works..
 
That would be good. From your sig we have a similar set-up so it will be interesting to see.
 
If I was to adjust the wastegate to open a bit sooner would it lower overall boost pressure or will it not matter because peak boost pressure will be the same because of the volume going through? The reason I ask is because BD says 42psi is the max for effecient air flow.
 
7x14s is alot of fuel

We put a set of 7x12's in a 98 with a 180 pump, 191 delivery valves, no plate (this is the way he got the truck/pump) and a 64/71/14 and it spooled lightning fast but never ever cleared up any of the smoke. It is waste gated to 47-48psi right now.
 
Yeah....I might talk to Jamie and stepping them down some. I wanted 500-550hp so I could break into the 12's....I think I could get there with some smaller injectors. When we talked he recommended the 7x14's. I'm thinking 7x10's would work but also a cam might help here too.
 
Phil take your plate out and go for a quick WOT run. Im curious how it cleans up... a 7x14 is a lot of fuel.
 
I'll try it this weekend....I'm buried at work and to much stuff at home tonight and tomorrow. I bet it's dirty LOL.
 
Im talking full boost smoke. I would run it up to 50psi once you get your studs in too.
 
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